Building a Sticky and links to valuable threads

[dragon79]

Cal, looks like this was made into an official sticky, even for the information you have in here. Just needs to be cleaned up some, given a proper title and as more information comes in you can edit as you have been doing to complete this.

It's real exciting to at last see a sticky here, especially for those who say "just got my 300x, is there any issues or anything I should be made aware of?" LOL

[jcmo]

Glad you're doing this work, I PM'd you links to all the videos I have bookmarked as I read the forums here for my initial setup.

[SHYguy]

Agreed on the zip tie method for the skids. In a crash those will break, instead of the frame breaking. You need a total of 8 zip ties for this.

I like the Blade alu rear grips, takes away the slop that generates in the stock plastic ones.

Batteries: Nano-Techs are great, noticeably more powerful that stock E-Flite batteries. And very cheap too. Buy at HobbyKing.

CNC'ed main gear from Lynx or MicroHeli (also has anti-rotation hub). The stock gears are cast and normally a bit uneven, generating vibrations. Which is never a good thing in a heli.

Dyeing for different colors: Tail fin, upper fin and tail blades take color very well. Use RIT dye. Don't try to dye the skids and main gear, they don't take color well at all.

Lynx dampers are great, more precise.

You don't really need alu upgrades in the main head, it's mostly for bling.

The Turnigy SuperBrain 40A works fine with stock servos. It has logging, is light, and has a governor feature. You can also use a Turnigy programming box with it. Plus a USB adapter in order to load the logs to your PC.

Great tread, should be one like this for every heli!

[stevebaker]

You can zip tie the skids to the frame to prevent the lugs breaking as already mentioned, or you can change the skids for nylon bolts like I did:

https://www.helifreak.com/showpost.p...2&postcount=32

[CrashCanuck]

I was chasing a pretty severe tail wag with some major vibes as well. No tail blade balancing fixed anything. Align tail hub cured the wag and the vibes were lessened. Added the aluminum pitch slider and lever as well. Tried Lynx blades as well. It developed a nasty shake in the tail that made it unflyable. Was suggested by LHS to change out the bearings in the tail case so I did and shakes all gone. Heli only has about 20 packs through it and that is the second set of bearings that have gone bad. First was the motor bearings which HH did send me a new motor.
So if you develop a high speed, side to side shake in the tail, change out the bearings, $6.

Marty

[SHYguy]

Originally Posted by CrashCanuck

I was chasing a pretty severe tail wag with some major vibes as well. No tail blade balancing fixed anything. Align tail hub cured the wag and the vibes were lessened. Added the aluminum pitch slider and lever as well. Tried Lynx blades as well. It developed a nasty shake in the tail that made it unflyable. Was suggested by LHS to change out the bearings in the tail case so I did and shakes all gone. Heli only has about 20 packs through it and that is the second set of bearings that have gone bad. First was the motor bearings which HH did send me a new motor.
So if you develop a high speed, side to side shake in the tail, change out the bearings, $6.

Marty

Is there a BOCA bearing kit for the 300X?

[SHYguy]

See post #183

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread...495364&page=10

[Nelsonisms]

Originally Posted by SHYguy

Is there a BOCA bearing kit for the 300X?

There certainly is. $26.99 for a full set of steels. $80.95 for a full set of ceramics.

Of course you can order them individually if you don't want a full set.

The only ones they don't include are the small thrust bearings in the tail grips. (apparently they just don't carry thrust bearings that size)

http://www.bocabearings.com/search.a...0%20X&Feature=

Those are the bearings in the frame, head and tail case of the helicopter. However; they do also list them for the stock motor if you have that...it's says its for the 420H but the 320H has the same bearings.

http://www.bocabearings.com/search.a...=420H&Feature=

[SHYguy]

Originally Posted by stevebaker

You can zip tie the skids to the frame to prevent the lugs breaking as already mentioned, or you can change the skids for nylon bolts like I did:

https://www.helifreak.com/showpost.p...2&postcount=32

More details on the cable tie method:

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=539036

[stevebaker]

Thought I'd update and post this very useful diagram that "kenkadish" was kind enough to post in another thread.
Thought it useful for others to post here as this thread is a Sticky.

[sn00p]

I would like to add to the crash kit.....

FBL links these tend to go missing with the tip of the blade grip
Servo pushrod links
Main Gear hub
Spare jesus Bolt upper and lower

I would also like to see some more info on ESC upgrades :-)

Ive personally opted for the same as DCH and gone for the Tunrigy AE45-A. I have flashed the firmware with BLheli (10.2) software (as famously used on MCPX's) VERY nice easy setup.... Of course the ESC fits the 300x perfectly in stock position. Has 45 amp continous capability and a 4 amp BEC So will cope with servo and motor upgrades. Not to mention programing capabilites far beyond my understanding but the gov mode is a nice option.

So far im running CF blades with Savox 0257's (cyclic) and 0264 (tail), Scorpion 2213-14 (13t) Gov 3500 HS, Turnigy AE45-A ESC set at 6v output. AD brace, Lynx head, tail blades and dampers, Fusano tails fins, zip tie landing gear, Ar7200BX in stock position but using 3m tape, Align tail hub and grips. Im VERY happy with this setup. FYI i run Turnigy Nanotech 45's Lipo's because it pulls quite hard on the power so a high C rating is prefered. Noticable decline in power when using stock or lower quality Lipo's.

AUW is 431g (no battery)

[SHYguy]

Originally Posted by Nelsonisms

There certainly is. $26.99 for a full set of steels. $80.95 for a full set of ceramics.

Of course you can order them individually if you don't want a full set.

The only ones they don't include are the small thrust bearings in the tail grips. (apparently they just don't carry thrust bearings that size)

http://www.bocabearings.com/search.a...0%20X&Feature=

Those are the bearings in the frame, head and tail case of the helicopter. However; they do also list them for the stock motor if you have that...it's says its for the 420H but the 320H has the same bearings.

http://www.bocabearings.com/search.a...=420H&Feature=

Anyone know if there is a weight difference for the ceramics vs. steel?

[Aerotony]

Originally Posted by dony45

I would assume your talking about the 450 size. On Align, I don't think all the align 450's have the same tail hub and grips does it matter which ones you use, V2, Sport, Pro, DFC, ect. ?

I notice that there was no response to the above posting.
I have found a cheap source for the Align 450 Pro/Sport Metal Tail Holder Set TL450034-03
Is this set compatible with the 300X and if so does anyone have a part number for tail rotor blades? There seems to be a choice of "plastic" (H45035?) or carbon fibre.

Any information gratefully received.

[sn00p]

Anyone the align tail hub and grips work... Arguably the tarot or align thrust bearing versions are best... I personally run the old cheap plastic version non thrust type.

As for tail blades use 300x compatible blades of your choice. I use lynx but would like to try a set of kbbd's when I find a set in the uk.

[Razskidoo]

I know not all are exact, but what is the general lengths for all links?

Purchased Blade's metal servo arms and now they are not 90* to the main shaft!? Reinstalled the plastic, ok. Should I recenter in the Bx? Or take a lost and go back to plastic?

Thanks
Rick

[SHYguy]

Originally Posted by Razskidoo

I know not all are exact, but what is the general lengths for all links?

Purchased Blade's metal servo arms and now they are not 90* to the main shaft!? Reinstalled the plastic, ok. Should I recenter in the Bx? Or take a lost and go back to plastic?

Thanks
Rick

90 the servos, then adust the links so that the swash is level - preferably using a leveling tool. Then do the rest of the BX setup.

[stevebaker]

Tail grips assembly photo:



Note, I also found I needed an extra thicker shim (as well as the standard 2 shims) to remove lateral play in the grips.
Just assemble dry to check this out before loctiting the bolts.

[spruemaster]

what is the stock FBL linkage lenght?

[rdlohr]

Since this thread is a catchall, I added Shy's links to worthy threads in post 1. I'm not sure this is the long term solution but at the very least, it makes them easily accessible in the mean time.
Rick

[everydayflyer]

Thus, if you hit throttle hold before a crash, you take away the FBL controller’s ability to strip your servo gears.

How do you figure that ?

TH does not remove power from the AR7200BX or the servos , fact is servos will still be powered and trying to move.


I only pointed this out due to you comment

The downside of a sticky is that it lasts a long time so you don't want misinformation,