Thinking of selling my warp 360 and getting a protos.

[Fooferdoggie]

my flying stele is on the pathetic side and I fly in a really small field. too small for the 450’s but there you go. I like a light hell with low disc loading and I keep the rpms somewhat low around 3000 or so I us a cc 50 esc governed and fly around 75% this works well on my x3 and my warp is a bit slower.
my mistake on the warp is I used the hs 5065 servos and they work fine on all my helix but they don’t hold up on the warp. the warp needs much stronger servos so it will cost a fair amount.
so I am thinking is selling the warp with the motor and batteries and use my segos I have and go 3s. I am not sure on the gearing on the protos I run a 2221-8 motor 3495 motor on the x3 with 360 blades and it is plenty. I don’t know the gearing on this bird I have a 2221-10 motor 3000k how is it for the right speed?
So I would want to stretch it and it seems you can run align 360 blades on it but I want to make sure.
my electronics are beasts cyclic servos hs 5065 (how long of arms do you need?) a kst 215 for tail cc 50 esc I just need the motor info.

[Chris Nifty]

If you got out of the Warp cos you want a more suitable heli for small spaces then I wouldn't recommend stretching the Mini. If you do stretch I found it flys "smaller" with the SAB 350's on it than the Aligns and better keep it 3s and keep the headspeed well under 3000 - makes for a real easy, tame bird.

[michalss]

325mm blades and 4S 2200 gens ace + 2221-2010kv seems to be the better with the MP.
-> extremly low crash cost
-> max pop
-> pack longevity (never hot)
-> low rpm allowed 2500 to 3200
-> very quiet and smooth
-> few maintenance
-> suit small flying area

Just my 2 cts...

[Chris Nifty]

Originally Posted by michalss

325mm blades and 4S 2200 gens ace + 2221-2010kv seems to be the better with the MP.
-> extremly low crash cost
-> max pop
-> pack longevity (never hot)
-> low rpm allowed 2500 to 3200
-> very quiet and smooth
-> few maintenance
-> suit small flying area

Just my 2 cts...

Wow 304 grams, that's one heavy battery!

[Fooferdoggie]

I am used to the dinky field it does not matter for the most part 325 or 360. As I can't fly hard or even find the limits of my 300x. My x3 and warp have 360. I want light disc loading so I have have a lower headspeed and keep things light.

[Chris Nifty]

Yep, I like the lower disc loading and low headspeeds also. My 3s packs are no more than 200 grams for the heaviest one.
Sorry I can't help you with the motor other than to recommend the stock MSH 2580kv.

[Russell Harding]

Motors for the mini tend to run lower KV and have a long motor shaft. Some can be modified with a long shaft, but the stock 3S motor is fine for what you need. It will build out a lot lighter and mine was plenty happy on 5065s. I fly the snot out of mine at 3200 rpm... If you are taking it easy you'll probably really like 2800 or so.

[FoamAddict]

+1 to much lower crash costs with the mini.. Its scary to look at the "What did your crash cost"thread in the Warp fourm. $100 + is not uncommon there.

If you pick one up I would not get the low FBL head upgrade. I have snapped the swash driver screws off mine in a light crash. It really does not need any upgrades other than a different canopy IMO. I'm flying 3 cells with lots of power with the 16T pinion on the stock motor. I have never had any pinion OWB issues either in the 200 flights I have had it. My mini has had no issues that were not my fault in the time I have owned it.

Standard servo arms should work. My balls on the servo are at 13mm center of ball to center of servo horn screw. I recommend the Tarot blue horns for the HS65 they are designed to break before the servo strips gears. I have some for the KST servos in mine but have not put them in yet.

[Fooferdoggie]

The warp if you have higher end servos that don’t strip it is not bad in a crash it is built like a tank. but my tip over destroyed one 5065 servo tore the top off and the other died broke the servo mount and bent the tail. the servos are the problem that if I don’t spend some big cash on them every crash is going to be expensive.
I am not getting younger and my hand speed and accuracy is not going to get much better so I will never get all I can out of the warp or even my upgraded 300x. my little field is a problem too that limits me but it is a two minute walk so I can fly every day the weather permits. I did find another field to fly that is fast to get to on the public train and if I feel like dragging the helis with me I can fly on my way to work.
so stick with stock motor not a p problem I just have that scorpion motor sitting around.

[para5063]

That's exactly why I switched from the Warp to the Mini-P - crash costs and overall durability. The Warp flew beautifully and had great presence in the air. But the a few failed autos and a tail bearing disintegration - I was out a pretty penny w/ bent boom, broken landing gear, stripped cyclic gears, and who knows what other hidden damage.

Mini P - I've had a few failed autos and the gorilla landing gear held up great. I've had the idler pulley shear out of its mount and I just auto'd down with no other damage. I'm not a an advanced flyer but I do know how to take care stuff. I find the Mini P easier to maintain and fly.

[dr dremel]

Originally Posted by FoamAddict

+1 to much lower crash costs with the mini.. Its scary to look at the "What did your crash cost"thread in the Warp fourm. $100 + is not uncommon there.
....

Yup looked at that thread a few days ago also and what I realized is that nearly every crash (even tip overs) seem to strip servo gears on the Warp. So it´s not only parts costs that are cheaper with the Mini, the heli is designed to protect the servos (weakest link are the plastic blade grips, 4€/pair).

I had 5 crashes so far with my Mini, 2 of them hard. Ok I always fly over grass and "every crash is different" blabla, but the combined crash costs are 30€ (40$) so far excluding 2 sets of blades.

[dr dremel]

Originally Posted by FoamAddict

... If you pick one up I would not get the low FBL head upgrade. I have snapped the swash driver screws off mine in a light crash.

You can still attach the swash driver arms to the plastic hub you would use with the stock head. That´s what I´m doing to prevent snapped screws in the alu head block.

[michalss]

Packs are 252g for 4S 2200gens ace 30C. This is the fine weight to have perfect cog if esc isn't under battery tray (mine is on the left)