A Newb's 700E F3C

[soberflying]

glad to see others members with a F3C. Here is picture of mine




http://www.youtube.com/soberflying

[Mustang Fever]

Hey, sober. I like your canopy. Did it arrive that way or did you customize it?

My sticks were not adjustable for tension or friction, so I took my 6EX Tx apart and just screwed one of those flat plastic landing gear straps where the throttle ratchet used to be. That put just enough drag on the collective so that I'm not bouncing up and down anymore. I also reset the head speed to 1650 rpm, and that, combined with about 5 deg. max pitch, makes it very easy to maintain a steady altitude.

The Rotor Tech 115 mm tail blades came yesterday, so they got installed last night and flown this morning. In the end, I was able to shorten the rudder pushrod by 2 turns on one ball link, and one on the other, so there's a little more right rudder travel remaining on the slider, and not quite as much anti torque pitch. You can see that I still needed to have each ball link screwed out a bit more than the thickness of the jam nuts I'm using.

She still "twitches" a little, due to the gain on the governor. I backed it off a couple more points and hope to try again soon. The bird is rock solid stable and the tail just grooves, not even a hint of wag anymore. I'm really starting to have fun with it now, working on my right and left side in hovering, and practicing getting back to "safety" as quickly as I can without looking panicked in the process.

[soberflying]

Hi,

I got the fusuno green tail stabalizer, fin. Canopy is from aligntrexstore.com (it came as it is) and rubber green skid nuts are from somewhere else. I tried to color match it and so far it looks pretty nice I posted another pic under the pics section here. It's a version 1 f3c but I got the redesigned head on it.

[philnz]

I had that stick interaction problem too and have experimented with different stick settings. I found in the end it works best for me to have low friction and use a neck strap. That way I can focus on working the sticks and just rest my fingers under the transmitter rather than holding onto it. I try to keep my thumbs more pointed down on the sticks rather than operating them from the side.

I think you just have to practice and try different things and try to get comfortable.

[Mustang Fever]

Phil:

The little bit of friction that lg strap added to the collective really helped. I'm doing a much better job of moving the tail around and maintaining altitude. I suspect part of my problem is that I use thumb and forefinger on the sticks- it's the way I was taught early in my plank days.

Finally got around to looking at the data log- average ripple is 0.75 (max 1.95) is and average temp is 75F, at about 60 ambient, so the "forced air" ventilation must be doing it's job.

[watdazit]

Originally Posted by Scorny

Wow...very nice.I'm dreading putting my F3C V2 together.
They say its a breeze,sure I belive them....I think I'm gonna seek or get help.

They are easy to put together. Just take your time. A couple of things. One is to make sure it is square, build the frame with the mainshaft in place and tighten every bolt without threadlock initially. Once all the bolts are in place and the mainshaft slides easily in and out then remove the bolts one at a time and threadlock them. Align show a picture of the frame on a flat surface as part of the build to ensure it is square. This is not possible because of two bolts on the bottom. You have to have a piece of board each side of the bolts for it to sit flat. Secondly be prepared for a fiddle to fit the ESC to motor wires. Like others I think the ESC at the back is better especially for fitting batteries from the back. If you fit the ESC at the front you will have to load the batteries from the front and this means taking the canopy off each time.

[Scorny]

^^^^^^^ Beauty,thanks for the tips.

[Mustang Fever]

Here's some shots of the swash plate leveling tool I got from HK. Really works nice. Slides down the mast and the three pads rest on top of the ball links.

My swash was considerably off, even after spending a lot of time on it with my home made tool. Two turns on each of the front pushrods to get it right.

[tekparasite]

Originally Posted by soberflying

glad to see others members with a F3C. Here is picture of mine

Attachment 285243


http://www.youtube.com/soberflying

That's a nice canopy!! Here's my F3C. It may be hard to see but it's in there.

[NC_2_VA]

Very nice heli tekparasite. You should post some more pics.

[philnz]

Hey, what fuse is that? Was it an easy fit? I'm thinking of turning my 700 into a scale machine.

[tekparasite]

Originally Posted by NC_2_VA

Very nice heli tekparasite. You should post some more pics.

I would post more pics, but I don't want to hijack this thread. I'm sure if you google "tekparasite flickr", you'll find more photos of the heli.

Originally Posted by philnz

Hey, what fuse is that? Was it an easy fit? I'm thinking of turning my 700 into a scale machine.

That fuse is made for the 700E, so very minimal mods. It is MarvelCraft brand sold by eastcoastvario.com

Anyway, even though mine is scale and should reside in the "Scale" section of the forum, I still feel part of the F3C family. Plus, I got another Trex700E V2 which is why I pretty much live here.

[Mustang Fever]

Tek:

By all means post some more pics. Someday I'd like to scale mine out.

[tekparasite]

Originally Posted by Mustang Fever

Tek:

By all means post some more pics. Someday I'd like to scale mine out.

okay..cool.. here ya go...















And since I'm posting things out of content, might as well post my halloween costumes

[ktmdiesel]

Sorry quick change of topic. How critical is an un square frame and what are the effects. Nice scale by the way lol

[Mustang Fever]

ktm:

When I did mine, I took the screws out of the bottom, and just set the frame on top of the bottom plate, over the glass work top like they suggest. I left all the screws loose for the bearing and motor blocks, and squared the whole thing up with a couple carpenter's squares. I had the mainshaft installed during this time.

Then it was just a matter of going around and evenly tightening the screws until all were snug and the thing stayed straight against the squares.

I think if you don't do this, you're bound to end up with some misfit in the main shaft bearing area. Maybe some of the screw holes wouldn't line up exactly correctly, either, but I'm not sure on that.

Something else I did this am was to order one of the Castle Cap Packs. For $25, it seems a good investment to insure maximum service life of the ESC.

I guess this is the equivalent of getting the wing, horizontal stab, fin and fuse all at 90 degrees to each other on a plank. It's not a very precise process, but if you don't do it, you might end up with a poor handling airplane.

[sarah1097]

Has anyone tried flying the new gp900 I can not seem to get the tail wag out of my new 700 v2 f3c. In addition to that I only flew one pack basic hover only and now when I spool it and or turn the main blades against the motor it feels like either my pinion is not slipping or the bearing block on the side of the piñon is bad. It literally sounds like I have a stripped main gear but it is not stripped at all. This has had less then five min flight time

[Mustang Fever]

Sarah:

Did you take the main gear assembly apart and bond the one way clutch drum into place?

[ccpecot]

Originally Posted by tekparasite

okay..cool.. here ya go...















And since I'm posting things out of content, might as well post my halloween costumes

One sweet heli!!!!!

[Train Fixer]

I'm sorry but, those Halloween costumes take the cake!