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vitek · 07-25-2004, 01:54 AM

I was digging through my parts bin and found a set of single and double-dot head dampeners. I realized that I haven't really experimented much with my dampening.

I have run what is basically the recommended settings for a while now... two zero dot dampners, a #0329 and a #0332 shim, the c-clip, then a #0331. [http://ronlund.com/extreme/head.jpg]

I'm going to try putting a two dot on the outside for a little while, and then maybe replacing the #0329 with a #0331. I'm currently running MAH 690s, but may be switching to SAB 680s shortly. This is on an OS70 powered extreme.

Just trying to find out what might work well without having to try all twenty seven dampening permutations.

Travis

WillJames · 07-25-2004, 06:40 AM

Are they the 2 yellow dot ones or the 2 white dot ones. The 2 yellow dot are MUCH softer than the 2 white dot ones.

DavidH · 07-25-2004, 08:33 AM

No dot = 70 durometer
1 yellow dot= 50 durometer
2 yellow dot= 60 durometer
1 white dot= 80 durometer
2 white dot = 90 durometer

The 70 durometer is the standard oring that comes with the majority of the MA rotor heads.

David

bighands3d · 07-25-2004, 09:52 AM

What I used on my setup that worked well for me with a set of 700 V's and a WC61
was the one set of stock orings and one set of the 2white dot. white dot on out side. If you have and xtreme then you have the cliped spindle. this will probably give the fell your looking for without make the head to stiff. If you have a none cliped head axle than use three shims with the same setup.

vitek · 07-25-2004, 10:41 AM

The ones I've got are single and double white dot. Any one else mess with the dampening? DavidH?

DavidH · 07-25-2004, 11:02 AM

Yes I have used an 70 duro inboard and and 80 duro outboard on each side.
I used a 1mm shim and .5 mm shim on each side with that combo. Cyclics are quick and predictable. With this combo have to run the headspeed 1550 or more to keep the mast bumping from happening. Below 1550 the heli will oscilate.

David

conrod · 07-25-2004, 08:47 PM

Mast bumping?? is this the same thing as making the heli oscilate??

vitek · 07-26-2004, 01:01 AM

Yup.

DavidH, do you happen to know the P/N for the 80 and 90 duro dampners?

Travis

DavidH · 07-26-2004, 08:52 AM

120-75 Head Dampener Shim Kit

Kit contains 4 X 80 Durometer
4 X 90 Durometer
2 x 1mm shims
2 x .5 mm shims
2 x .25 mm shims

That is the only way I have seen those dampeners. I don't know the individual part numbers for them. Contact ChrisS thru here, he is at MA and can tell you the part numbers for the 80 and 90 duro damperners.

David

cdrking · 12-13-2004, 04:00 PM

Travis,

Did you try a few different combos? I purchased a kit from Rick's that has two regular o-rings and two 70s and two 80s.

Don't know what I should try. Also anyone have any good tricks for removing the spindle without marring it? I have been removing one spindle bolt then remove the spindle with one grip on it. Then I use two pieces of oak to clamp it together.

Any better way?

Jeff

WillJames · 12-13-2004, 04:34 PM

From what I have seen. dampening depends on the blades you fly and your style of flying. From what I have seen and heard in the Extreme, you should run harder dampening with the MAH blades and softer dampeners with V's.

DavidH · 12-13-2004, 06:11 PM

Jeff,
Here is the way I remove the bolts from the blade axle. I take a hex wrench and stick into each bolt on each end. Then I loosen the bolt. Of course only one breaks free <G>. I then unscrew the one that breaks free and take the grip off on that end. I then take my cordless drill that has a 3/8 keyless chuck on it. I slip the chuck onto the exposed end of the blade axle. I then tighten the chuck by hand as tight as I can. I then hold the chuck and turn the allen wrench that is in the bolt in the other end of axle. The bolt will break loose and I unscrew it and take the other grip off. I then loosen the chuck from the axle. I have used this method for couple of years and have not marred the blade axle anytime.

David

WillJames · 12-13-2004, 07:16 PM

Cool tip David!! Thank you!!

Now that is what I'm talking about!!

conrod · 12-13-2004, 07:56 PM

hmmm...good idea David. I use a vise to hold my axle at the center.

DavidH · 12-13-2004, 08:21 PM

Yeah if you want to take the axle out of the head. Holding in the middle with pliers is fine. But sometimes I just take the grips off to grease the thrust bearings. So no need to take the clips that hold the axle off and remove the axle. So this allows me a quick way to remove both bolts with no problem.

David

conrod · 12-13-2004, 08:38 PM

This was with the old style..no clips. Haven't crashed the new style yet so will convert to Drill chuck method. Thanks for posting.

DavidH · 12-13-2004, 08:51 PM

Quote:

Haven't crashed the new style yet so will convert to Drill chuck method

So you only grease the thrust bearings after a crash ? <G>

David

conrod · 12-18-2004, 05:27 PM

yeah.

WillJames · 12-19-2004, 07:02 AM

Do you use the synthetic hydrogen grease on the thrust bearings David, or what do you recommend? I need to do my Extreme.

Thanks in advance for the tips!!

cdrking · 12-19-2004, 12:34 PM

And how often do you grease the thrust bearings?

Dampening: I just tried the 80 durometers on the outside and the 70 durometers on the inside with the regular shimming (0329 and 0332).

David, do you think there's a big difference running the 80s on the outside versus the inside?

It flew awesome, tracked perfect and really felt crisp through all maneuvers. I am going to stick to this setup for a while and see how it holds up.

Jeff

07-25-2004, 01:54 AM	#1 (permalink)
vitek My HF Map location Join Date: Apr 2004	Dampening options I was digging through my parts bin and found a set of single and double-dot head dampeners. I realized that I haven't really experimented much with my dampening. I have run what is basically the recommended settings for a while now... two zero dot dampners, a #0329 and a #0332 shim, the c-clip, then a #0331. [http://ronlund.com/extreme/head.jpg] I'm going to try putting a two dot on the outside for a little while, and then maybe replacing the #0329 with a #0331. I'm currently running MAH 690s, but may be switching to SAB 680s shortly. This is on an OS70 powered extreme. Just trying to find out what might work well without having to try all twenty seven dampening permutations. Travis

07-25-2004, 06:40 AM	#2 (permalink)
WillJames Registered User My HF Map location Join Date: Mar 2004	Are they the 2 yellow dot ones or the 2 white dot ones. The 2 yellow dot are MUCH softer than the 2 white dot ones. __________________ William James Crazy wife still trying to kill me.

07-25-2004, 09:52 AM	#4 (permalink)
bighands3d Registered Users Join Date: Apr 2004	What I used on my setup that worked well for me with a set of 700 V's and a WC61 was the one set of stock orings and one set of the 2white dot. white dot on out side. If you have and xtreme then you have the cliped spindle. this will probably give the fell your looking for without make the head to stiff. If you have a none cliped head axle than use three shims with the same setup. __________________ Trex 700N YS 913DS Magnum Fuels JR 11X

12-13-2004, 04:00 PM	#10 (permalink)
cdrking Registered Users Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Tacoma, WA	Travis, Did you try a few different combos? I purchased a kit from Rick's that has two regular o-rings and two 70s and two 80s. Don't know what I should try. Also anyone have any good tricks for removing the spindle without marring it? I have been removing one spindle bolt then remove the spindle with one grip on it. Then I use two pieces of oak to clamp it together. Any better way? Jeff __________________ To Hover is Divine, the Alternative is Rather PLANE

12-13-2004, 04:34 PM	#11 (permalink)
WillJames Registered User My HF Map location Join Date: Mar 2004	From what I have seen. dampening depends on the blades you fly and your style of flying. From what I have seen and heard in the Extreme, you should run harder dampening with the MAH blades and softer dampeners with V's. __________________ William James Crazy wife still trying to kill me.

07-25-2004, 08:33 AM	#3 (permalink)
DavidH My HF Map location Join Date: Mar 2004	No dot = 70 durometer 1 yellow dot= 50 durometer 2 yellow dot= 60 durometer 1 white dot= 80 durometer 2 white dot = 90 durometer The 70 durometer is the standard oring that comes with the majority of the MA rotor heads. David

07-25-2004, 10:41 AM	#5 (permalink)
vitek Thread Starter My HF Map location Join Date: Apr 2004	The ones I've got are single and double white dot. Any one else mess with the dampening? DavidH?

07-25-2004, 11:02 AM	#6 (permalink)
DavidH My HF Map location Join Date: Mar 2004	Yes I have used an 70 duro inboard and and 80 duro outboard on each side. I used a 1mm shim and .5 mm shim on each side with that combo. Cyclics are quick and predictable. With this combo have to run the headspeed 1550 or more to keep the mast bumping from happening. Below 1550 the heli will oscilate. David

07-25-2004, 08:47 PM	#7 (permalink)
conrod Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: Apr 2004	Mast bumping?? is this the same thing as making the heli oscilate??

07-26-2004, 01:01 AM	#8 (permalink)
vitek Thread Starter My HF Map location Join Date: Apr 2004	Yup. DavidH, do you happen to know the P/N for the 80 and 90 duro dampners? Travis

07-26-2004, 08:52 AM	#9 (permalink)
DavidH My HF Map location Join Date: Mar 2004	120-75 Head Dampener Shim Kit Kit contains 4 X 80 Durometer 4 X 90 Durometer 2 x 1mm shims 2 x .5 mm shims 2 x .25 mm shims That is the only way I have seen those dampeners. I don't know the individual part numbers for them. Contact ChrisS thru here, he is at MA and can tell you the part numbers for the 80 and 90 duro damperners. David

12-13-2004, 06:11 PM	#12 (permalink)
DavidH My HF Map location Join Date: Mar 2004	Jeff, Here is the way I remove the bolts from the blade axle. I take a hex wrench and stick into each bolt on each end. Then I loosen the bolt. Of course only one breaks free <G>. I then unscrew the one that breaks free and take the grip off on that end. I then take my cordless drill that has a 3/8 keyless chuck on it. I slip the chuck onto the exposed end of the blade axle. I then tighten the chuck by hand as tight as I can. I then hold the chuck and turn the allen wrench that is in the bolt in the other end of axle. The bolt will break loose and I unscrew it and take the other grip off. I then loosen the chuck from the axle. I have used this method for couple of years and have not marred the blade axle anytime. David

12-13-2004, 07:16 PM	#13 (permalink)
WillJames Registered User My HF Map location Join Date: Mar 2004	Cool tip David!! Thank you!! Now that is what I'm talking about!! __________________ William James Crazy wife still trying to kill me.

12-13-2004, 07:56 PM	#14 (permalink)
conrod Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: Apr 2004	hmmm...good idea David. I use a vise to hold my axle at the center.

12-13-2004, 08:21 PM	#15 (permalink)
DavidH My HF Map location Join Date: Mar 2004	Yeah if you want to take the axle out of the head. Holding in the middle with pliers is fine. But sometimes I just take the grips off to grease the thrust bearings. So no need to take the clips that hold the axle off and remove the axle. So this allows me a quick way to remove both bolts with no problem. David

12-13-2004, 08:38 PM	#16 (permalink)
conrod Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: Apr 2004	This was with the old style..no clips. Haven't crashed the new style yet so will convert to Drill chuck method. Thanks for posting.

12-18-2004, 05:27 PM	#18 (permalink)
conrod Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: Apr 2004	yeah.

12-19-2004, 07:02 AM	#19 (permalink)
WillJames Registered User My HF Map location Join Date: Mar 2004	Do you use the synthetic hydrogen grease on the thrust bearings David, or what do you recommend? I need to do my Extreme. Thanks in advance for the tips!! __________________ William James Crazy wife still trying to kill me.

12-19-2004, 12:34 PM	#20 (permalink)
cdrking Registered Users Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Tacoma, WA	And how often do you grease the thrust bearings? Dampening: I just tried the 80 durometers on the outside and the 70 durometers on the inside with the regular shimming (0329 and 0332). David, do you think there's a big difference running the 80s on the outside versus the inside? It flew awesome, tracked perfect and really felt crisp through all maneuvers. I am going to stick to this setup for a while and see how it holds up. Jeff __________________ To Hover is Divine, the Alternative is Rather PLANE

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