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Michael211 · 01-14-2009, 05:37 PM

Hey! I just received a 4G3 today. It looks really nice, but the transmitter does not power on. I put fresh AA's in it, and they're oriented right and the battery plug is plugged in... still, no LED light when I turn the switch on.

I pulled the 2.4 ghz RF module out of the back of the TX and discovered there isn't anything inside that module... it's empty! Is this correct?

Please advise... I was looking forward to doing a test hover tonight in the living room.

- Michael

Steve Joblin · 01-14-2009, 05:56 PM

Do you have the new 2801 transmitter or the older 2601 transmitter? Who did you buy it from?

Michael211 · 01-14-2009, 06:22 PM

I just pulled the JST power connector out and used a voltage checker on the ends of the plug... it's 0.0V with all fresh batteries installed! Ok so there's a problem somewhere in the battery holder... anybody know how to get that holder out of the transmitter without breaking anything?

The transmitter is a WK-2601. I'm pretty sure that the rf module is just a filler and is supposed to be empty.

- Michael

captainep3 · 01-14-2009, 06:58 PM

If you've never removed the battery tray then you must not have put enough batteries in the Tx. It takes eight aa batteries. The other four are on the opposite side.
If this is the case don't feel to bad. I did the exact same thing.

Michael211 · 01-14-2009, 07:14 PM

Oh good grief! And here I was prying gently on that battery tray left and right with a small flat tipped screwdriver trying to figure out how to pop it out.... now that you mention that it does indeed come out, I pinched it with my fingers in the center between the 2 rows of batterys and pulled and it slid right out! LMAO! ROF!

The manual simply says to remove the battery tray, without making any suggestion as to HOW to remove the thing... I thought it was clipped in or something. Duhh!

Yeah it'll probably power up much better with all 8 batteries installed. Thanks!

- Michael

Steve Joblin · 01-14-2009, 07:51 PM

Don't feel bad... I think you are the 4,943rd person who did not realize it needs 8 batteries... you are not alone! Glad that is all it was... oh, and yes, the RF Module plug in the back is just a blank filler... it is a left over from when you would insert your crystal for the frequency you wanted.

Michael211 · 01-14-2009, 08:16 PM

Too funny... I thought it took 8, but could only see slots for 4 batteries and couldn't figure out how to remove the darn battery holder. LOL!

Anyhows, just finished a 1st test hover in the dining room floor about an inch or two off the floor... cyclic is WAYYY too sensitive from the factory! This thing needs some serious negative expo on the cyclic to make it controllable (about to do just that). As is, barely moving the cyclic stick makes it want to flip right over... lol!

Blade tracking is a hair off but good enough for a few initial hoverings while I get the cyclic under control and make some gyro adjustments (pretty sure the gyro gain is too low too).

Big problem when I tried to power the heli down... I could NOT get the connectors to seperate! Geez! It was like they were glued together or something suddenly... I finally took 2 pairs of needle nose pliers and with the heli sitting upside down managed to pry the connectors apart! What's up with that? I slightly skinned one of the battery wires (but not the other) in the process of trying to seperate those connectors... cwap. :-(

The manual, while in English, is oh so aweful! Why can't they get somebody that knows heli's and speaks English as a 1st language to help with the translation of the manual? Geez!

I think once the radio is adusted this little birdie might actually be fun to fly... but man is it way impossible to fly with the factory settings! Definitely needs negative expo on the cyclic servos bigtime!

- Michael

AntiGravity · 01-17-2009, 07:54 PM

Look at the connectors on the batteries, you will see a 2 bumps one on each side of the connector. Use an exacto knife and cut the tiny bumps off, or shave them down slightly. This will make connecting and disconnecting your batteries easier. I have not had a battery disconnect in flight, but I'm sure if the battery fell out of the battery tray it could disconnect. At this point it would probably crash anyway, better to crash without power.

Michael211 · 01-18-2009, 11:35 AM

Strange but the battery connector wasn't nearly so hard to pull apart from the charger's connector as it was to get seperated from the heli's connector. I was afraid something had shorted in the connector and melted it together... it was that firmly engaged!

While using needle nose pliers to pull them apart I unfortunately did skin one of the battery wires about 1/4 inche back from the connector... I guess it'll be ok though, since the other wire is still fully insulated.

It has since gotten easier to pull apart. I had to use the needle nose pliers the 1st 3 or 4 times, but now I can get them apart with just fingers finally.

Thanks though!

- Michael

01-14-2009, 05:37 PM	#1 (permalink)
Michael211 Registered Users Join Date: May 2008	4G3 transmitter??? Hey! I just received a 4G3 today. It looks really nice, but the transmitter does not power on. I put fresh AA's in it, and they're oriented right and the battery plug is plugged in... still, no LED light when I turn the switch on. I pulled the 2.4 ghz RF module out of the back of the TX and discovered there isn't anything inside that module... it's empty! Is this correct? Please advise... I was looking forward to doing a test hover tonight in the living room. - Michael

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01-14-2009, 05:56 PM	#2 (permalink)
Steve Joblin Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: Aug 2008	Do you have the new 2801 transmitter or the older 2601 transmitter? Who did you buy it from?

01-14-2009, 06:22 PM	#3 (permalink)
Michael211 Registered Users Thread Starter Join Date: May 2008	I just pulled the JST power connector out and used a voltage checker on the ends of the plug... it's 0.0V with all fresh batteries installed! Ok so there's a problem somewhere in the battery holder... anybody know how to get that holder out of the transmitter without breaking anything? The transmitter is a WK-2601. I'm pretty sure that the rf module is just a filler and is supposed to be empty. - Michael

01-14-2009, 06:58 PM	#4 (permalink)
captainep3 Registered Users Join Date: Oct 2008	If you've never removed the battery tray then you must not have put enough batteries in the Tx. It takes eight aa batteries. The other four are on the opposite side. If this is the case don't feel to bad. I did the exact same thing.

01-14-2009, 07:14 PM	#5 (permalink)
Michael211 Registered Users Thread Starter Join Date: May 2008	Oh good grief! And here I was prying gently on that battery tray left and right with a small flat tipped screwdriver trying to figure out how to pop it out.... now that you mention that it does indeed come out, I pinched it with my fingers in the center between the 2 rows of batterys and pulled and it slid right out! LMAO! ROF! The manual simply says to remove the battery tray, without making any suggestion as to HOW to remove the thing... I thought it was clipped in or something. Duhh! Yeah it'll probably power up much better with all 8 batteries installed. Thanks! - Michael

01-14-2009, 07:51 PM	#6 (permalink)
Steve Joblin Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: Aug 2008	Don't feel bad... I think you are the 4,943rd person who did not realize it needs 8 batteries... you are not alone! Glad that is all it was... oh, and yes, the RF Module plug in the back is just a blank filler... it is a left over from when you would insert your crystal for the frequency you wanted.

01-14-2009, 08:16 PM	#7 (permalink)
Michael211 Registered Users Thread Starter Join Date: May 2008	Too funny... I thought it took 8, but could only see slots for 4 batteries and couldn't figure out how to remove the darn battery holder. LOL! Anyhows, just finished a 1st test hover in the dining room floor about an inch or two off the floor... cyclic is WAYYY too sensitive from the factory! This thing needs some serious negative expo on the cyclic to make it controllable (about to do just that). As is, barely moving the cyclic stick makes it want to flip right over... lol! Blade tracking is a hair off but good enough for a few initial hoverings while I get the cyclic under control and make some gyro adjustments (pretty sure the gyro gain is too low too). Big problem when I tried to power the heli down... I could NOT get the connectors to seperate! Geez! It was like they were glued together or something suddenly... I finally took 2 pairs of needle nose pliers and with the heli sitting upside down managed to pry the connectors apart! What's up with that? I slightly skinned one of the battery wires (but not the other) in the process of trying to seperate those connectors... cwap. :-( The manual, while in English, is oh so aweful! Why can't they get somebody that knows heli's and speaks English as a 1st language to help with the translation of the manual? Geez! I think once the radio is adusted this little birdie might actually be fun to fly... but man is it way impossible to fly with the factory settings! Definitely needs negative expo on the cyclic servos bigtime! - Michael

01-17-2009, 07:54 PM	#8 (permalink)
AntiGravity Join Date: Jan 2008	Look at the connectors on the batteries, you will see a 2 bumps one on each side of the connector. Use an exacto knife and cut the tiny bumps off, or shave them down slightly. This will make connecting and disconnecting your batteries easier. I have not had a battery disconnect in flight, but I'm sure if the battery fell out of the battery tray it could disconnect. At this point it would probably crash anyway, better to crash without power.

01-18-2009, 11:35 AM	#9 (permalink)
Michael211 Registered Users Thread Starter Join Date: May 2008	Strange but the battery connector wasn't nearly so hard to pull apart from the charger's connector as it was to get seperated from the heli's connector. I was afraid something had shorted in the connector and melted it together... it was that firmly engaged! While using needle nose pliers to pull them apart I unfortunately did skin one of the battery wires about 1/4 inche back from the connector... I guess it'll be ok though, since the other wire is still fully insulated. It has since gotten easier to pull apart. I had to use the needle nose pliers the 1st 3 or 4 times, but now I can get them apart with just fingers finally. Thanks though! - Michael

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