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Old 01-13-2009, 05:41 PM   #41 (permalink)
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HFG,

Thanks, I will put it under the horizontality of the boom

I plan to go flybarless on this baby.

Cédric
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Old 01-14-2009, 12:32 AM   #42 (permalink)
 
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Looks like the factory forgot to open the cooling slots in the front of the canopy, :-)
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Old 01-14-2009, 08:08 AM   #43 (permalink)
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It doesnt get as hot since the amp draw is considerably less than the 11v trex450 version
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Old 02-01-2009, 10:22 PM   #44 (permalink)
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hey I have a question about Flybarless. i have a Mini Titan and i was thinking...do i need that part that holds onto the control arms? i have it set up a little different, with the swash, and i cut the longer end of my washout arm set so it doesnt touch anything....but what about this part?
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Old 02-01-2009, 10:35 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Those arms maintain a constant phasing just like the radius arm, they both do the same job. Charley uses both as they hold up better over time. Post a photo of your setup for us.
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Old 02-01-2009, 11:28 PM   #46 (permalink)
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well i found this in a magazine. looks like a good plan, but id like some back up on this
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Old 02-01-2009, 11:29 PM   #47 (permalink)
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sorry its a little unclear but you can see this guy isnt using it
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Old 02-01-2009, 11:35 PM   #48 (permalink)
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From what I've heard, Charley is using redundancy on his side -- he's using the TWO possible ways of maintaining phasing in order to reduce slop over the long run.
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Old 02-01-2009, 11:37 PM   #49 (permalink)
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so its not exactly necessary....?
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Old 02-01-2009, 11:45 PM   #50 (permalink)
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I don't want to speak for Charley the designer as to how necessary both are. I personally don't think both mechanisms are necessary but they are already on the head so why not use both ? Are you modifying the MT head for flybarless ?? Why not just buy the whole Outrage flybarless head ?
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Old 02-01-2009, 11:55 PM   #51 (permalink)
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I will eventually, but for now i want something to work this way...the photo doesnt show up...but ya, I'm waiting for the money lol....trust me if it was in my budget then i would be. I'm 17, and you might think that if i cant afford it, i shouldnt be in this hobby, but to buy things online, i need to pay my rents first ...in due time. patience is key, so i figured id make lemonade with lemons...so do you think this will work for now?
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Old 02-08-2009, 04:34 PM   #52 (permalink)
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SK-360...buy one.
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Old 02-20-2009, 10:05 AM   #53 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HFG View Post
Next tip. When installing the canopy support brace screw into both canopy support pins equally. Try not to cross thread the brace when screwing in the post but if it gets a little tight a set of pliers with some rubber on the teeth will get the pins in that last little bit. Do not use loctite or you will never get it out.

HFG, could you possibly take a front-shot of this anti-rotation guide? I'd like to see how much space you have between the guide and the pin (per my other thread... I found this excellent writeup and I noticed your pic here, and from this angle it looks like there is a slight gap. I just want to see how your spacing looks before I begin filing).

Thanks! And very nice thread, mucho appreciado!
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Old 02-20-2009, 10:13 AM   #54 (permalink)
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I sure will when i get home on sunday.
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Old 02-20-2009, 10:34 AM   #55 (permalink)
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Thanks!
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Old 02-20-2009, 10:37 AM   #56 (permalink)
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Hmmm i have this photo, does this help any ?

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Old 02-20-2009, 10:47 AM   #57 (permalink)
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Almost. Thats a side shot. So i cant really see the pin going into the guide. Its hardbto describe the angle i need. I guess a close up of the guide area as taken from the rear, so i can see how space u have between the slot on the guide and the pin.

And thx for the ball link tips earlier in the thread. I was wondering how i would fix the tightnesss of the head linkages.
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Old 02-21-2009, 10:27 PM   #58 (permalink)
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Here is a tip I came up with that helped when installing the X3D paddles.

The holes in the paddles are much too small for the threads on the supplied 2mm flybar, and in turn, makes hairline cracks around the gussets for the holes. What I did was to get my 1.5mm hex driver and clean out the inside of the hole quite a bit. It enlarges the hole a bit, but I found it was just enough so it wouldn't make small cracks but it still seemed to thread on very securely.

No pics as this is pretty much straightforward.
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Old 02-24-2009, 11:34 PM   #59 (permalink)
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nice...i see you have the V-Bar...shes a beaut...
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Old 02-27-2009, 07:59 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Ok, here is a new tip. The outrage 360mm blades look FANTASTIC but are completely black and for those of you as blind as myself will need some help. I bought some flashy stickers from RH but of course bought the wrong size, so i had cut them to size. I want to try out a few options to see what shape looks best, the stickers are identical on the top and bottom of the blades as i spend at least as much time inverted as upright.

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