How are people orienting the batteries on the Tray??

[rotaryguy]

yep...voltage ripple will blow the caps and your done, hope you are in a good posistion to auto .
to add, the biggest contributor to that is a bad or low quality battery, not so much the wire length IMO.

[Tahoe Ed]

Are we talking about total cumulative length? I have about 6" per battery, 3" per lead, and the "Y" is about 12" total wire. That puts me at 24" of wire and exceeds the CC recommendation by a factor of 2! Or are we saying that the positive and negative leads of 3" are just that and I am at 3" plus 3" plus 6" or a total of 12" Clarification please.

[ping]

It's lenght from where the wire is soldered onto the esc to where it is soldered at the battery.

[blbills]

Ping,

Thank you for providing those links! I was trying to find those before I came in here and started telling everyone to be careful but was having a hard time coming up with them again.

Here's a pic of my setup. You can leave the canopy on and the wire length is minimal. This is the ideal setup. Obviously IMHO

[Speedy1661]

Your Setup looks good but i don't really like to put the ESC in front....
Is it warm after the flight?

[blbills]

Originally Posted by Speedy1661

Your Setup looks good but i don't really like to put the ESC in front....
Is it warm after the flight?

With the heat sink on the ESC it's just fine. Its coming down around 85 degrees now. If you look at all the other larger 90 sized electric helis like the Rigid, Curtis ENV etc... they are all mounted under the canopy with no problems.

[Doug Darby]

My wiring is not as nice and short as blbills but similar principle. My ESC location under the canopy does not create any heating issues as it comes down at about 100 deg flying 6:30 flights in 95 degree Texas weather.
Leaving the canopy in place is a rally nice feature and allows for battery replacement in a matter of less than a minute or so...

[Shef]

So I ended up doing something slightly different. I faced my packs in the same direction, added about 6 inches to the Neg Lead from the rear pack and now I have an easy reach to my ESC (mounted in the front). I don't mind taking the canopy off between flights so this is perfect for me. COG is dead on for me.




I also took out the velcro from the rear and installed frame supports instead so I don't have to worry about the strap ripping (and subsequent LiPo ejection). I ordered some fuel tubing to cover the bars, but for the time being the extra canopy supports will do the trick.

[michael503]

I haven't got my canopy yet so I can't get my final balance, and I haven't decided how I'm gonna secure this Hyperion 4500 pack, but it looks like its gonna protrude out the front a good bit. For additional support in the front (battery will load from the rear) I came up with this...

[GoRgOyL]

Here's how I got my battery oriented on the tray, intent is to keep the wiring from battery to the ESC as short as possible, keeping within the 12" limit allowed for stock configuration of the ESC.


Here is the pack mounted in the frames

[michael503]

Originally Posted by rotaryguy

Here is my solution...To get the proper CofG my pack is actually just ahead of the rear slot so the strap would be useless. This is a "rear entry only" design, and as far as the canopy goes well, well im used to taking off the canopy between flights so im good with that. Besides, IMO this looks MUCH cleaner and more secure than the straps. Its also safer by not applying pressure to the PCB's and solder tabs.
Anyway, as you can see from the pics, there is a pair of M3 bolts in the front with a thick aluninum washer (tail blade shim) and an Aluminum cup washer like those in the trex 5-600 kits finished off with a stainless nut. This arrangement creates the perfect stopper for the battery tray right at the ledge where the tray expands in width. The rear is then secured by a removable 3mm rod (flybar) with nylon thumbscrews (pinions) one side of the rod has the thumbscrew fixed secured with a set screw, and one side of the frame is threaded. The other thumbscrew is also threaded so I get double protection. Basically you slide in the rod, it threads into the far side, then you secure or thread on the second thumbscrew.

Be aware that it only takes about 5mm shift in the pack to upset the CofG by several degrees...I found my sweet spot by hanging the heli with some very strong kite string, suspending it just millimeters from my level desk with the rod assembly you use in place of the head button for setting up your pitch, head, etc...This allowed for a very free pivot to precisely set the CofG. I set it up so I simply align the tail end of the pack with the end of the tray.
BTW I am running the 12S Hyperion G3 VX 4500 stick pack.
-Enjoy

I like your style!

I have one of these packs, and I've been studying your system, trying to find a way to improve on it, and I'm finding that to be pretty tough. On mine, the wires will exit the rear, so I can get away with a strap in the front.

since you've had it awhile, can you think of anything you would do differently?

BTW, where did you get the pinions?

[Heli G]

Originally Posted by GoRgOyL

Here's how I got my battery oriented on the tray, intent is to keep the wiring from battery to the ESC as short as possible, keeping within the 12" limit allowed for stock configuration of the ESC.

Great setup – simple and neat.
Any reason why you have female bullets on both lipo wires?

[GoRgOyL]

Originally Posted by Heli G

Great setup – simple and neat.
Any reason why you have female bullets on both lipo wires?

It's actually a male bullet on the negative wire, I just cover it with a banana plug holder (hard plastic material), it fits like a glove. It prevents "accidents" specially when mounting the battery to the frame.

[Heli G]

Originally Posted by GoRgOyL

It's actually a male bullet on the negative wire, I just cover it with a banana plug holder (hard plastic material), it fits like a glove. It prevents "accidents" specially when mounting the battery to the frame.

Ahh, I see.

[michael503]

for what its worth, EC5 connectors can be split into individual shielded bullets.

[jarmund]

Could someone with 3S+3S split pack (Hyperion VX 5000mAh in my case) please describe their battery solution? I am having a hard time fitting mine in there, as i don't like kinking the cables. And the fact that it's a split pack greatly increases the amount of wires (4 balance leads and 8 power leads, plus the cables i need in there to serial it all together).

I have one working solution that i am using right now, but it is one of those solutions that i would use if i can't find anything else.

Pictures would be much appreciated.

-
Kj

[Krusty Blade]

Originally Posted by jarmund

Could someone with 3S+3S split pack (Hyperion VX 5000mAh in my case) please describe their battery solution? I am having a hard time fitting mine in there, as i don't like kinking the cables. And the fact that it's a split pack greatly increases the amount of wires (4 balance leads and 8 power leads, plus the cables i need in there to serial it all together).

I have one working solution that i am using right now, but it is one of those solutions that i would use if i can't find anything else.

Pictures would be much appreciated.

-
Kj

I am facing the same problem now, don't like these split packs at all. Just to many wires.

[Mystic3D]

I took the strapping tape idea from a fellow Helifreak Member.

Front Load Design
20 seconds to change a pack

The only thing I am going to change to replace velcro on End of Pack with Strapping Tape so the Velcro does not catch on the velcro on the front of the heli.

[magnito]

Originally Posted by rotaryguy

yep...voltage ripple will blow the caps and your done, hope you are in a good posistion to auto .
to add, the biggest contributor to that is a bad or low quality battery, not so much the wire length IMO.

Yes

[martn1sw]

My battery solution.