need advice: Nano won't bind anymore

[V1rous]

Had the Nano for 4 days and less than 25 flights now and it's already got this problem (granted, it was 25 flights worth of bumps, crashes, and hard landings). Called up HH and told them the situation and got a nice lecture on spending more time in the simulator, after which they said they would send me one free. Props to Horizon for great service in spite of my honesty ;-)

Unfortunately they require a picture of the old one snapped in half, so there goes any chance of reflowing and having a spare board. The furniture pad fix is great, but also check out the thread about lining the bottom of the board with fuel tubing, as this protects both the sides AND the bottom.
How to avoid the dreaded "won't bind" issue

I love the Nano, and I'm impressed that it flies with the stability of a bigger bird, but this solder problem is absolutely debilitating.

[forjer]

Looks like his is where I'm headed too. I've got only 10 flights on my nano and I have to remind nearly every time I put a fresh battery in. It will be a sad day when I can't even bind.

So what's the proper bind distance for the Tx?

[Familyman67]

3ft or more

[forjer]

Thanks. I'm sure I'll be forced to rebind so I'll try that tonight.

One more ques? Before flying, is it necessary to power down the Tx and Rx after a successfull bind?

[GoatRider]

Originally Posted by forjer

Before flying, is it necessary to power down the Tx and Rx after a successfull bind?

Nope. Just unplug the battery and plug in a new one. Set it on a level surface before it finishes initializing to make sure the gyros are centered.

[VooDooMafia]

I have found that I need to re bind to the dx6i every time I want to fly the nano. Not sure why this keeps happening but its a bit of a pain.

[GoatRider]

Originally Posted by VooDooMafia

I have found that I need to re bind to the dx6i every time I want to fly the nano. Not sure why this keeps happening but its a bit of a pain.

Do you fly to Low-Voltage-Cutoff? That sometimes erases the binding memory of the brick. It's also hard on the batteries. Better to use a timer, set to 1 minute less than it usually takes to get to LVC. For me, that's 4 minutes on stock, 5 minutes on 200mAh cells.

[VooDooMafia]

Originally Posted by GoatRider

Do you fly to Low-Voltage-Cutoff? That sometimes erases the binding memory of the brick. It's also hard on the batteries. Better to use a timer, set to 1 minute less than it usually takes to get to LVC. For me, that's 4 minutes on stock, 5 minutes on 200mAh cells.

No always set the timer on the transmitter , and I end up crashing and stop flying well before the timer goes off lol.

Its only with the Nano it does this the MSR and MCPX are fine and do not need to rebind

[GoatRider]

Huh. Another thing you could try is starting over with a clean model memory. That's usually the suggestion for not binding, but it's worth a try for this.

[VooDooMafia]

Originally Posted by GoatRider

Huh. Another thing you could try is starting over with a clean model memory. That's usually the suggestion for not binding, but it's worth a try for this.

Yea thats what I am going to do and see if that helps

[Delfin]

Originally Posted by V1rous

Had the Nano for 4 days and less than 25 flights now and it's already got this problem (granted, it was 25 flights worth of bumps, crashes, and hard landings). Called up HH and told them the situation and got a nice lecture on spending more time in the simulator, after which they said they would send me one free. Props to Horizon for great service in spite of my honesty ;-)

Unfortunately they require a picture of the old one snapped in half, so there goes any chance of reflowing and having a spare board. The furniture pad fix is great, but also check out the thread about lining the bottom of the board with fuel tubing, as this protects both the sides AND the bottom.
How to avoid the dreaded "won't bind" issue

I love the Nano, and I'm impressed that it flies with the stability of a bigger bird, but this solder problem is absolutely debilitating.

I don't know what's up with horizon. I read post like this all over the forum I was very close to purchase 2 mCPX brushless to add to me fleet of only blade helis . I got a new nano hovered 1 battery. The other battery the belly crashed on the side from 3 feet high nothing mayor. I called HH got a hard nosed rep named mike since the beginning of the call was very impatient that said it was the
fault of me crashing a heli and it would cost me a new board and the $30 1/2 an hour repair rate and I would have to pay shipping.

Here they advised me to call again and another rep said it would be free and that I woul have to send the heli in me aping shipping. He was ok but sounded lazy.
Called again. Got a nice rep but I still had to send it in.
5 time I think I got the 1st mike I told him that in the forums they send the boards and motors free even when the heli had been abused. In all my calls I was nice and polite. But this guy got pissed again said that the forums are not official and that they don't do that and ended the call. Thank god that nitro hobbies replaced my nano.

But in 5 calls after I purchased 6 of their helis and a Dx8 and their Phoenix simulator. Never called and that treat me for no reason like that. I'm so disappointed in them. The only reason I spend $$. On their expensive parts and helis it was because I read that their customer service was good. I was in for reality check I will not purchase from them or recommend them. There are better end cheaper alternatives.

There finally wrote it,had to let the steam off.

[BMFmach]

Originally Posted by VooDooMafia

I have found that I need to re bind to the dx6i every time I want to fly the nano. Not sure why this keeps happening but its a bit of a pain.

I have the same issue, I am going to have to try these suggestions. I don't want to have to get a new 3 in 1. Hoping I can just limp this one along for a few months until I can afford a 130x

[jlharv]

Originally Posted by BMFmach

I have the same issue, I am going to have to try these suggestions. I don't want to have to get a new 3 in 1. Hoping I can just limp this one along for a few months until I can afford a 130x

Amain has them for 199 (you have to add it to your cart), with 2 extra batteries, extra blades and a metal beval gear.

[Bhujang]

Originally Posted by 4712

Here a Foto, where Your critical section is...
Coating was removed and pins resoldered.

What a brilliant thread! It's helped me to identify what the rx chip is and on squeezing it tight to the board bind issue gone away. So I guess a reflow is almost a definite for the problem to go away for good! Will have to remove the goo on it with a dremel heat torch and then reflow all those tiny legs... May as well do most of the board too some of the capacitors look either smothered or minimal dry solder at best...

Face it the board I got on my nano had the worse soldering I've ever seen! Bits of solder all over the place it's amazing it worked at all and didn't just short out! Well best Shen Zhen can do I guess...

[hypnotoad]

Just Joined the club, now I have to tell Dad I screwed up my $200 AUD heli Again. IF HH ADVERTISES THIS AS A CRASH RESISTANT HELI THE BOARD SHOULDN'T BREAK. Gotta call HH support from Aus.

[heli_shmeli]

Originally Posted by coredump

That is right, coredump is my ID.
Great that 4712 can help you closer.

I was just read this and I have the same problem. Is there anything you can do to fix? I do not mind paying, but I just don't want to buy another board. I already have two that don't work..

[HauLo]

Guys This just happened to my nano, there is a tiny silver chip directly in the middle at the bottom of the board, I set my soldering iron on the tips of this chip to reflow the solder joints, and voila!!! she binds!!!

will post some pics when I get home from the gym!!

[alonglick]

Is there any way of ironing a chip that disconnected from the board??
I had some connextion issues but when i pressed the board it was fine.
Today after a major crash it just didnt work, so when i pressed the little chip underneath, it fell of the pcb to my hand..
Any suggestions?
It's a nano cps if it makes any difference

[MariaFan]

If you know anybody who is in the electronics field, they may be able to repair this for you. The parts are quite small, and are very difficult to repair using normal soldering equipment. I'm not saying impossible to repair, just difficult.

[alonglick]

Actually In my work i can try give it to the soldering guy that might do that, but it's a very tiny chip and with special connections.

I tried calling HH but no answer there yet..

I'm not trying to get any free things, but I honestly think that no matter how hard the crash was (It was hard but not that bad) none of the chips should be disconnected from the board. uffff

Originally Posted by MariaFan

If you know anybody who is in the electronics field, they may be able to repair this for you. The parts are quite small, and are very difficult to repair using normal soldering equipment. I'm not saying impossible to repair, just difficult.