Register Now

Jack2010 · 08-18-2010, 05:46 PM

Little progress:

The only thing that worries me a bit are such screws that are spare or I have missed something

Electronics is already wired and prepared for mounting. So need to check if everything is working properly, set it up, tune the heli and

fly it.

Jack2010 · 08-19-2010, 04:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mikej

I'll try and take a pick later - I now only use 6S packs as the crash that lead to "the Phoenix from the flames" killed one of my 2450 3S packs

Any chance for those pics?

Jack2010 · 08-19-2010, 07:18 PM

Almost there - just the tail left...

Mikej · 08-20-2010, 01:41 AM

Nice wiring Jack

ukgroucho · 08-20-2010, 02:48 AM

Now now Mike! I'm sure he plans to fix it up all nice and neat after testing is done.

Mikej · 08-20-2010, 03:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ukgroucho

Now now Mike! I'm sure he plans to fix it up all nice and neat after testing is done.

Yeah - but you can only be nice to the newbies for so long

Jack2010 · 08-20-2010, 03:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mikej

Nice wiring Jack

Mike - is this is the way you put LiPo's?

Mikej · 08-20-2010, 04:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jack2010

Mike - is this is the way you put LiPo's?

I tend to use 6S now - but that is how I piggy-backed them when I used 2 x 3S on the 425XF frame. Your packs look pretty "chunky" mine were longer and flatter, I also tried them side-by-side - whichever fits best under the canopy is the answer I'm afraid

Jack2010 · 08-20-2010, 05:29 AM

Those I have are from my T-Sport, Turnigy 2200 mah, 30C.

BTW: what is this part really for?

ukgroucho · 08-20-2010, 06:31 AM

It's for the tail pushrod. If you want to go to a direct push (from inside the frame.. whic I think you have done), or tail mounted servo or use the CNC seesaw to get a better tail response than the stock Z bend pushrod then you need to cut the stock tail pushrod and be able to join the two ends in a straight line.

Look at this pic - check the tail pushrod
https://www.helifreak.com/attachment...7&d=1279026287

Jack2010 · 08-20-2010, 07:25 AM

OK, thx for the explanation. Guys, your knowledge and help is invaluable. I trully appreciate.

My rod is straight, but from the very brief review it looks like I will not have to cut it as it should fit as it is. I have also bought the one with curve (Z bend as you called it) just in case

EDIT: actually after thinking it twice - I might cut it anyway - without the cut it should be fine for the 0 degree tail rotor pitch, but if I would like to set it like Futaba suggest (mechanical no drift) than I will need ability to change it's length...

Rudder neutral position adjustment
(1) Set transmitter revolution mixing (pitch->rudder) to 0% or OFF.
(2) Set the transmitter gyro sensitivity switch to the AVCS position. First, turn on the transmitter power, then turn on the gyro power (shared with receiver). Since the GY401 initializes the data when the power is turned on, set the rudder stick to the neutral position and do not move the helicopter for approximately 3 seconds.
(3) Switch the transmitter gyro sensitivity switch to the normal position. At this time, the monitor LED goes off. Lift off the helicopter and hover and adjust the rudder neutral position with the transmitter trim lever. Large rudder neutral position deviation may require readjustment of the fuselage linkage.
(4) Set the gyro sensitivity to the point just before the helicopter tail begins to hunt.
This completes mechanical neutral position adjustment. Land the helicopter and set the gyro to the AVCS mode. When flying, the power must always be turned on in the AVCS mode and the rudder neutral position read each time.

ukgroucho · 08-20-2010, 11:56 AM

Nah. It's a 401 right? If you have a stock tail pushrod setup then you'll probably need 15 or 16 on sub-trim max to get a stable hover in rate mode.

If you are using Spektrum then MAKE SURE that you rebind after setting up rudder neutral... not sure if this is the case for Futaba FASST as I have no direct experience.

Jack2010 · 08-20-2010, 02:09 PM

It is DONE

(almost)

Got all the setup, blades balancing, etc.... and immediately went out and do the test hovering. I set the DX6i tail servo reverse wrongly... he he - you know what happened

After fixing this small glitch got it up in the air. Just for few sec and few inches as even gyro is not mounted as it should be

Now - one thing that I don't know - ESC (std Gaui 50A) - do I have to program thro min. and max. or not? If yes, how to do that?

I'm so exited

, like I was 5 year old and got new toy

EDIT: ok, got the ESC manual - done.

ukgroucho · 08-20-2010, 06:09 PM

Excellent! Congratulations... now just woirk thru the rest of the tuning and get ready to have some FUN with the Hurri.

Oh... and tidy up that wiring a bit or Mikej will be on your case

Jack2010 · 08-21-2010, 02:02 AM

OK, so did some test hoverings last nigt... and have a tail wag. Simple gyro gain doesn't work, so need to investigate a bit more

Mikej · 08-21-2010, 04:16 AM

Make sure that your tail slider moves on the tail shaft as smooth as butter. Also check that rudder link bar moves smoothly through the supports (they need to be in line) and that the clamp for the horizontal fin isn't too tight as this can cause wag as well

Jack2010 · 08-21-2010, 05:51 PM

Unfortunately - can not get away of this tail wag. It was supposed to be fun

Checked the tail slider - it is as smooth as you can think of. Rudder link bar as well. I'm only not sure about this horizontal fin clamp - should it be loose or just not as tight as it can be? Anyway - tried everything and no progress. It looks like it is just fine... but it is not apparently...

When I go down with the gain to 53% (from suggested 65%) then it is almost ok...

ukgroucho · 08-21-2010, 06:48 PM

Check tail belt tightness... I've heard other folks say that they like to hear the belt slap the boom but IMO this is WAY too loose. Make the tail belt tighter....
I suspect that having it tighter minimises the risk of gears 'slipping' and also reduces the risk of static build up.

Jack2010 · 08-21-2010, 07:12 PM

Belt checked. Tried with more loose and more tight setup – no diff if you ask me…

I have an unfortunate feeling that the nightmare just started. I will be stuck in searching for the cause...instead of moving forward.

The recent observation: when I really loose the clam Mike is mentioning the whole tail vibrates - very high Hz, small amplitude, rater horizontally (the end of the tail is moving within about 10 mm ampliyude). The very end of vertical fin vibrates like hell as well. You can see it quite easily. It is like... vibrator

I'm only guessing that such vibrations can mislead the gyro, which in consequence can generate the tail wag. If yes - where to search for the reasons? It is brand new kit, so...I'm lost.

Was just thinking about removing all blades (main and tail) and see how it goes without them. Are those vibrations there or not…

ukgroucho · 08-21-2010, 07:22 PM

If you can see vibration on the tail then you need to sort thatout - work out where it is coming from.

Try different tail blades... or check the balance on the tail blades.

What gyro are you using? Is it a 401?

08-20-2010, 02:09 PM	#53 (permalink)
Jack2010 Registered Users Thread Starter Join Date: Jul 2010	It is DONE (almost) Got all the setup, blades balancing, etc.... and immediately went out and do the test hovering. I set the DX6i tail servo reverse wrongly... he he - you know what happened After fixing this small glitch got it up in the air. Just for few sec and few inches as even gyro is not mounted as it should be Now - one thing that I don't know - ESC (std Gaui 50A) - do I have to program thro min. and max. or not? If yes, how to do that? I'm so exited, like I was 5 year old and got new toy EDIT: ok, got the ESC manual - done.

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

08-18-2010, 05:46 PM	#41 (permalink)
Jack2010 Registered Users Thread Starter Join Date: Jul 2010	Little progress: The only thing that worries me a bit are such screws that are spare or I have missed something Electronics is already wired and prepared for mounting. So need to check if everything is working properly, set it up, tune the heli and fly it.

08-19-2010, 07:18 PM	#43 (permalink)
Jack2010 Registered Users Thread Starter Join Date: Jul 2010	Almost there - just the tail left...

08-20-2010, 01:41 AM	#44 (permalink)
Mikej Registered Users Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: England	Nice wiring Jack

08-20-2010, 02:48 AM	#45 (permalink)
ukgroucho Registered Users Join Date: Oct 2005	Now now Mike! I'm sure he plans to fix it up all nice and neat after testing is done.

08-20-2010, 05:29 AM	#49 (permalink)
Jack2010 Registered Users Thread Starter Join Date: Jul 2010	Those I have are from my T-Sport, Turnigy 2200 mah, 30C. BTW: what is this part really for?

08-20-2010, 06:31 AM	#50 (permalink)
ukgroucho Registered Users Join Date: Oct 2005	It's for the tail pushrod. If you want to go to a direct push (from inside the frame.. whic I think you have done), or tail mounted servo or use the CNC seesaw to get a better tail response than the stock Z bend pushrod then you need to cut the stock tail pushrod and be able to join the two ends in a straight line. Look at this pic - check the tail pushrod https://www.helifreak.com/attachment...7&d=1279026287

08-20-2010, 07:25 AM	#51 (permalink)
Jack2010 Registered Users Thread Starter Join Date: Jul 2010	OK, thx for the explanation. Guys, your knowledge and help is invaluable. I trully appreciate. My rod is straight, but from the very brief review it looks like I will not have to cut it as it should fit as it is. I have also bought the one with curve (Z bend as you called it) just in case EDIT: actually after thinking it twice - I might cut it anyway - without the cut it should be fine for the 0 degree tail rotor pitch, but if I would like to set it like Futaba suggest (mechanical no drift) than I will need ability to change it's length... Rudder neutral position adjustment (1) Set transmitter revolution mixing (pitch->rudder) to 0% or OFF. (2) Set the transmitter gyro sensitivity switch to the AVCS position. First, turn on the transmitter power, then turn on the gyro power (shared with receiver). Since the GY401 initializes the data when the power is turned on, set the rudder stick to the neutral position and do not move the helicopter for approximately 3 seconds. (3) Switch the transmitter gyro sensitivity switch to the normal position. At this time, the monitor LED goes off. Lift off the helicopter and hover and adjust the rudder neutral position with the transmitter trim lever. Large rudder neutral position deviation may require readjustment of the fuselage linkage. (4) Set the gyro sensitivity to the point just before the helicopter tail begins to hunt. This completes mechanical neutral position adjustment. Land the helicopter and set the gyro to the AVCS mode. When flying, the power must always be turned on in the AVCS mode and the rudder neutral position read each time.

08-20-2010, 11:56 AM	#52 (permalink)
ukgroucho Registered Users Join Date: Oct 2005	Nah. It's a 401 right? If you have a stock tail pushrod setup then you'll probably need 15 or 16 on sub-trim max to get a stable hover in rate mode. If you are using Spektrum then MAKE SURE that you rebind after setting up rudder neutral... not sure if this is the case for Futaba FASST as I have no direct experience.

08-20-2010, 06:09 PM	#54 (permalink)
ukgroucho Registered Users Join Date: Oct 2005	Excellent! Congratulations... now just woirk thru the rest of the tuning and get ready to have some FUN with the Hurri. Oh... and tidy up that wiring a bit or Mikej will be on your case

08-21-2010, 02:02 AM	#55 (permalink)
Jack2010 Registered Users Thread Starter Join Date: Jul 2010	OK, so did some test hoverings last nigt... and have a tail wag. Simple gyro gain doesn't work, so need to investigate a bit more

08-21-2010, 04:16 AM	#56 (permalink)
Mikej Registered Users Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: England	Make sure that your tail slider moves on the tail shaft as smooth as butter. Also check that rudder link bar moves smoothly through the supports (they need to be in line) and that the clamp for the horizontal fin isn't too tight as this can cause wag as well

08-21-2010, 05:51 PM	#57 (permalink)
Jack2010 Registered Users Thread Starter Join Date: Jul 2010	Unfortunately - can not get away of this tail wag. It was supposed to be fun Checked the tail slider - it is as smooth as you can think of. Rudder link bar as well. I'm only not sure about this horizontal fin clamp - should it be loose or just not as tight as it can be? Anyway - tried everything and no progress. It looks like it is just fine... but it is not apparently... When I go down with the gain to 53% (from suggested 65%) then it is almost ok...

08-21-2010, 06:48 PM	#58 (permalink)
ukgroucho Registered Users Join Date: Oct 2005	Check tail belt tightness... I've heard other folks say that they like to hear the belt slap the boom but IMO this is WAY too loose. Make the tail belt tighter.... I suspect that having it tighter minimises the risk of gears 'slipping' and also reduces the risk of static build up.

08-21-2010, 07:12 PM	#59 (permalink)
Jack2010 Registered Users Thread Starter Join Date: Jul 2010	Belt checked. Tried with more loose and more tight setup – no diff if you ask me… I have an unfortunate feeling that the nightmare just started. I will be stuck in searching for the cause...instead of moving forward. The recent observation: when I really loose the clam Mike is mentioning the whole tail vibrates - very high Hz, small amplitude, rater horizontally (the end of the tail is moving within about 10 mm ampliyude). The very end of vertical fin vibrates like hell as well. You can see it quite easily. It is like... vibrator I'm only guessing that such vibrations can mislead the gyro, which in consequence can generate the tail wag. If yes - where to search for the reasons? It is brand new kit, so...I'm lost. Was just thinking about removing all blades (main and tail) and see how it goes without them. Are those vibrations there or not…

08-21-2010, 07:22 PM	#60 (permalink)
ukgroucho Registered Users Join Date: Oct 2005	If you can see vibration on the tail then you need to sort thatout - work out where it is coming from. Try different tail blades... or check the balance on the tail blades. What gyro are you using? Is it a 401?

Register Now

Log-in