Furion 6 Flybarless Build Pictures

[Rich M]

Nope. You dont have to ground anything because it is all aluminum and carbon fiber.

[adroc3905]

Originally Posted by dauste

I have an Esky resizer that comes with various bits. The 4.9mm one does the MA links.

Hmm, that might be worth the investment. Where did you get the tool if you recall?

[dauste]

This is from the UK and is similar to the one I use. I'm sure you can find an equivalent from a reseller in the State.

[raptorwoody]

Looks identical to the Maverikk Ball Link sizer.

[prototype3a]

I just noticed that the product page says aluminum 6061-T6. This seems a strange choice since 7075-T651 is over twice as strong (505MPa yield vs 276MPa yield). I could understand if fracture toughness was a concern but then there is 7475-T7351 (435MPa yield and 52MPa*sqrt(m) )

I suppose my question is, why was 6061-T6.chosen?

[Brian James]

Originally Posted by prototype3a

I just noticed that the product page says aluminum 6061-T6. This seems a strange choice since 7075-T651 is over twice as strong (505MPa yield vs 276MPa yield). I could understand if fracture toughness was a concern but then there is 7475-T7351 (435MPa yield and 52MPa*sqrt(m) )

I suppose my question is, why was 6061-T6.chosen?

If you're referring to the aluminum alloy we use, 6061-T6 was chosen because it is a really good compromise between strength, weight, and cost.

[prototype3a]

I suspected that cost was probably the driving factor. It's the factor that I need to research some more myself to put what I'm learning in my materials class into some perspective.

I also need to learn more about corrosion of aluminum alloys.

[Brian James]

For what it's worth, 6061-T6 is typical for use in the U.S. made brands. The chinese stuff, no real way to know what it is!

[prototype3a]

I know Bob, of I2 uses some more "exotic" alloys but his parts are also MUCH more expensive.

[Ace4]

You also have to take into account how easy the material is to work with. Harder metals wear out machining bits significantly faster than softer ones, which makes the final parts more expensive.

Another factor is that there are basically minimum thicknesses for a lot of the parts, and at that thickness 6061 is sufficiently strong for the stresses it will experience. If you make it out of stronger metal, you can't proportionately make the part thinner and lighter so you don't really gain anything other than extra cost. The extra strength does nothing for the in-flight stresses, and in the event of a crash the stresses will be significantly beyond either material's tensile strength anyway. Engineering is always about compromise, unless you have unlimited budget.

[Thrasymedes]

Ready for flight video! Hoping for batteries soon!

[dauste]

Me too! Apparently they will be in stock at the Hobby King German warehouse within the next 30 days!! Good job the weather recently has been cr*p, otherwise I'd really be pulling my hair out.

I've been tweaking the Vbar set-up a bit to while away the hour....er days, until the batteries arrive.

[pcskyhi]

Dauste and Rich M, I finally got around to the linkages and setting up the servo scenario and ran into the same problems you all were experiencing. It pays to be a slow poke because I just went back in this thread and reread what you all said and had no issue. I used 19mm length for the cyclic rods and the servo arms are a millimeter or two below that set up tool that gives you your ball location on the rear cyclic servos. I set up the front servo first with the cheater hole then I used my MA swashplate leveler from a Fury I used to have and that gave me the proper placement of the rear servo arms. At this time I was using the rod lengths from the instructions which gave me mixing arms that were not 90 degrees. I took the rods off and shortened them to 19mm which by the way, When the ball links are screwed down to the very end that gives you 19mm. No cutting necessary. Now arms are 90 degrees. I don't know if you guys noticed but the furion has a slight forward angle so make sure you get the swashplate 90 degrees to the main shaft. I still need to zero out my head but I will probably have linkage lengths on the long rods similiar to what you guys have.

Dauste and Raptorwoody, I have the turnigy nano-techs 6S 4000 x 2 (1246 grams) for 12S. I balanced my furion 6 between the backs of two chairs and accordind to the bubble level I placed on the tail boom I am just a tiny bit tail heavy and I still have to attach my Jive 80 HV with heatsink which will be placed in the rear portion of the heli. With that being said I will have to probably slide these batteries forward a bit to get perfect CG. So don't let anybody tell you those batteries are going to make the heli nose heavy because that is not the case. and the 12S 4000 setup is lighter than the 10S 5000 setup. The guys using 12S 3300 and 3700 setups are probably light as feathers. Thus far, my heli is weighing 7.5lbs but I still have to attach the esc and blades. Probably looking at 8.5 lbs when completed but I'm hoping it comes out a little less

Keep the info coming guys. It has been a great help.

[BenHeli]

I forgo the use of the MA ball link tool and just set the two rear servos 90* to the main shaft. The front servo was set using the guide hole. As for the linkages from the servo to swashplate, I played around with the lenght until I was able to obtain proper +/-12.5* with the slider during vbar set up to about 90.

I like to run rx pack for the electronic instead of getting juice from the main pack so I'm using 2 3300 6s Voltz and a 2500 2s Volts rx pack. Balance is pretty good.

Well, off to the field to break in more Voltz packs that came in yesterday

[dauste]

I thought I could get away with some heavier batteries and then remembered that I had not taken the weight of the canopy into account. It is fairly heavey, about the weight of a 3S 2200 amp battery stuck on the front. So, I had to downsize a bit to allow for that. It will probably all be wrong when I get the real things in place! And yes, I'm still waiting....

[pcskyhi]

Dauste, You said you have the flightmax 5S 4000 40C enroute. A pair of those weigh in at 1162 grams. One of the pro reps is using TP 5S 5000. A pair of those weigh in at 1294 grams. Another pro rep is utilizing the Venom 5S 5000. A pair of those weigh in at 1332 grams. So it appears you are on the light side not heavy side unless I am missing something which is always possible. You just shorted yourself some milliamps (flight time). You will be a feather man. stop worrying.

[dauste]

Less milliamps but less weight = the same flight time! I'm expecting to get 6 minutes of flight doing my usual sport(ish) flying.

If I was running a flybar I wouldn't worry so much about the CoG, but I don't want the Vbar having to do this extra work. My theory is if I went for bigger batteries, I would have to add more weight to the rear to balance this out. That's even more for the batteries to lift and will reduce flight time.

Won't be long now and I'll be able to tell you how accurate my theory is!!

[pcskyhi]

Neither of the pros flying the heavier batteries have mentioned having to add tail weight to balance their birds. weight is not the only thing affecting flight time. headspeed is also a flight time killer. Guys fly heavy camera ships all the time and get great flight time because they use a low headspeed. There is a compromise between the two (weight & headspeed) that get you good flight time. I keep hearing everyone focusing on the weight of their batteries when the pros are flying heavier batteries than most without a problem. Don't get me wrong, I like a bird that is light also and am waiting on the Volts which are about 93 grams lighter than the Turnigy nano-techs I have now but the nano-techs are still not as heavy as the batteries being used by the pros so I am not worried. I also chose 12S rather than 10S because 12S setup is lighter and will draw less amps than 10S which equals more flightime. Bottom line, everyone has a different path to take and we all pretty much all end up with birds that fly to our liking.

[pcskyhi]

I am using the Vbar 5.0 system and have a question about the swashplate travel. When you first setup your Vbar they tell you to adjust your travels in your tx so all movements equal 100 in the Vbar. I went through the entire setup. after setting up the Vbar, I was checking all the movements. What I noticed is when everything is centered (0 degrees) and I move the cyclics around at the max throws, the swashplate hits the mainshaft. Now if I move the collective full positive or negative and then move the cyclics at their max, the swashplate does not hit the main shaft. Is this okay or do I need to make adjustment to stop the swashplate from hitting the mainshaft when at center? If I need to make adjustments, where would I do it, in the TX or the Vbar program?

[BenHeli]

Originally Posted by pcskyhi

I am using the Vbar 5.0 system and have a question about the swashplate travel. When you first setup your Vbar they tell you to adjust your travels in your tx so all movements equal 100 in the Vbar. I went through the entire setup. after setting up the Vbar, I was checking all the movements. What I noticed is when everything is centered (0 degrees) and I move the cyclics around at the max throws, the swashplate hits the mainshaft. Now if I move the collective full positive or negative and then move the cyclics at their max, the swashplate does not hit the main shaft. Is this okay or do I need to make adjustment to stop the swashplate from hitting the mainshaft when at center? If I need to make adjustments, where would I do it, in the TX or the Vbar program?

What is the cyclic ring setting? At zero pitch, what is the ail pitch?