Raptor X50 build thread

[KouDy]

I think i should make my rudder faster. Is it simply switching gyro to 3D flight mode from F3C? Because in compare to MT i have to really pull rudder stick a lot to get it moved by 90 degrees.

[Bob O]

Originally Posted by KouDy

I think i should make my rudder faster. Is it simply switching gyro to 3D flight mode from F3C? Because in compare to MT i have to really pull rudder stick a lot to get it moved by 90 degrees.

GY520? That's an excellent gyro. I used it on my 450 Pro and 600N. If you're looking to increase your tail behavior and piro rate, yes change it to 3D mode.

Once in 3D mode, if the piro rate is still too slow, you can increase the endpoints on the rudder channel a little at a time until the tail is as fast as you want it to be.

[KouDy]

I thought so so i will test it out.

I have also updated clean build thread by following new post :

Originally Posted by KouDy

I forgot to post this earlier.

Setting pitch on the blades :
Move your throttle stick to the middle position on linear pitch curve. I am used to have 0 degrees there, some people i know prefer to have some +4, +5 degrees so they (almost) hover on middle stick. Choose your own preference here.
In middle stick put the pitch gauge on one of the blades and align it with flybar.

See i have some -1 degree there (so i would actually descend), close enough to 0 degrees for me. In order to achieve your desired angle on middle stick, you need to adjust these links


If you tighten them (make them shorter), you will increase the angle towards the positive pitch (heli will ascend). If you make them longer it's the other way around.
In order to achieve my 0 pitch i had to tighten them by 7 full revolutions. You have to tighten both of them by same amount. Otherwise you will put your head out of balance.

After mid stick adjustments move your stick full up. They say you are looking for 11 degrees positive. I think some people may want more, some may want less (i wouldn't do it). This is how my high looks like now


Same procedure for low stick but it will be the opposite angle obviously


If you need to adjust (increase or decrease) the end points there are 2 ways how to do it.

Go to Swash AFR menu (basic menu on first page) and change PITC value. You don't want to change +/- sign, that will change direction of the movement (it was mentioned earlier). Default is +/- 50%. By moving the value towards zero you will decrease the overall throw of the swashplate. Similarly by moving away from zero you will increase it.
This will change overall throw. If then your high and low are not same (mine are not right now, i will change it later), then you need to change only one side of the stick. This is done in end points. So basic menu -> End Point menu. Now you want to change pitch, elevator and aileron channels. You have to move all 3 channels by same value on the endpoint otherwise your swash will not be leveled. This is pretty much trial and error, change all 3 channels by some value (say 5) up or down (as you need) and take measurement and you will see how right are you.

[KouDy]

So my upgrade parts arrived today. Both bearing blocks are now metal and i have 140° setup as well. Can't wait to test her in the flight . No photos from this as blocks are exactly the same as plastic and swash mod too (2 extra screws).

Side notes to parts tho.

Metal bearing blocks are coming WITH bearings! So now i have set of spare bearings because i didn't know that

[Bob O]

Yes, the metal blocks sure are nice. And with bearings preinstalled is a bonus!

[Bikersurgeon]

Hey guys...did you or bob use nuts on your muffler screws? The last two times i flew mine the muffler vibrated loose, leaning the engine, causing an abrupt landing....nothing was hurt. I used blue loktite both times (more for the second tightening)...maybe red loktite? A locknut? Both?

[Bob O]

I don't use lock nuts or locktite. I just make sure they're snug prior to each first AND second flight of the day. I don't tighten while hot like a lot of guys say to do. From my wrenching experience, that just never made any sense. After a few outings, the muffler bolts don't seem to need tightening as frequently, although I still check it as I indicated. I do lots of preflight stuff, which comes from my full scale airplane piloting days.

Sent from my HTC Incredible

[Bikersurgeon]

Excellent! Thanks, bobO!

[KouDy]

Yes i use both threadlock and nuts. So far had to tighten the muffler only once but then i had it taken off few times because i was messing with some more mechanical setups.

[Bikersurgeon]

Thanks, kou!

[KouDy]

I don't mind much, but can you guys use my full nickname here (Koudy that is)... You see Kou doesn't mean anything, but Koudy is me. Your call i don't mind that much, just felt like i would mention it...

[Bikersurgeon]

No prob, koudy. Here in these parts (sw missouri) its practically customary to split a persons name somewhere near the middle and that becomes their nickname....guess it was just a habit. I think it's cuz we are a bunch of lazy farts lol.

[pazz]

Hi Bob O , these pics are fantastic thanks for showing in detail all the lines , other people have done similar pics but didn't quite make sense this is a great help for someone like me doing their first build.

[Bob O]

pazz,

The X50 is a nice build.

[pazz]

Hi Bob O , it's been a great build and this forum
Has been the best bar far for help , I have picked up
More today from all you guys then I have
From any other site in the past few months.
( and yes it has taken me s few month ) I have
Been working on it now and then between
Woke when I have time. Looking at those pics
I might start the servos from scratch , I have a dx8
And all of this is quite a lot to pick for a newbie.

Many Thanks for all your help and input.

Matt