Logo 500 Tail And Boom Upgrade Project

[Bullfrog98]

Man I really like the look of this mod on the Logos.

It's a pity that the parts for the tail are so expensive.....perhaps I'll try it after my next crash.

[Freeskiken]

I ordered the one piece aluminum speedex tail. Not sure if I should put the boom supports on or not ?

[RyanW]

Although the larger diameter boom should provide more rigidity, I would always use boom supports. It think your FBL system will not perform as well without them.

[meatbob]

If you are running the 500SE configuration with a 25mm boom, you might be able to get away from needing the supports if you don't run crazy headspeeds. I stretched my Logo 500 (fat boom, no supports) to an SE with Edge 603s with supports, but I only run about 2000 RPM. The stock 500 length boom without supports is very nice, though.

[Freeskiken]

Not sure yet but I think I will use the supports. What is the normal head speed for the Logo 500 SE ? 2000 to 2250 RPM ? I will be using 553 main blades, 6 s, Kontronik 100 LV ESC.

[Freeskiken]

Looked at a old post and it said a 14 tooth pinion and about 1900 to 2000. I think I will try and set it for 1800-1850 normal, 1900-1950 idle 1, 2000-2100 idle 2.

[corrosionate]

Originally Posted by Freeskiken

I just ordered the parts to upgrade my Logo 500 SE to the 25 mm tail boom and the one piece aluminium speedex tail case. I will cut it down to the length for the 500 SE tail boom. I will use the Raptor 50SE belt. 686 XL.

Oh ya I just added the new tail hub to the order.

If its not too late, I found that its better to cut the 600 boom about 3/8"-1/2" longer than the 500se boom. My first one was cut to the 500se length and it worked, but I wasn't able to slide the boom Into the frame all the way, or else the tail box would hang off the end of the boom. When you remove the big spacer clamp thingy from your frame that reduces the diameter, your boom will now slide in farther. It seems best to have the boom slid all the way into the frame up to the little "teeth" so that the boom won't slip inwards like mine did when I cut it to 500se length.

So if you cut it exactly the same length as the 500se boom, you'll have to pull the boom out of the frame some. You should be able to fly it, but when I did it, my boom slipped and my belt tension got loose. I changed it out pretty quick for another one, cut to about 1/2 inch longer. You can always cut more off if it doesn't work, but you can't easily add on to it if its too short. You might also consider that if you adjust your belt tension for cold weather flying like some do, you'll need additional room to slide your tail box back.

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD

[Freeskiken]

Originally Posted by corrosionate

If its not too late, I found that its better to cut the 600 boom about 3/8"-1/2" longer than the 500se boom. My first one was cut to the 500se length and it worked, but I wasn't able to slide the boom Into the frame all the way, or else the tail box would hang off the end of the boom. When you remove the big spacer clamp thingy from your frame that reduces the diameter, your boom will now slide in farther. It seems best to have the boom slid all the way into the frame up to the little "teeth" so that the boom won't slip inwards like mine did when I cut it to 500se length.

So if you cut it exactly the same length as the 500se boom, you'll have to pull the boom out of the frame some. You should be able to fly it, but when I did it, my boom slipped and my belt tension got loose. I changed it out pretty quick for another one, cut to about 1/2 inch longer. You can always cut more off if it doesn't work, but you can't easily add on to it if its too short. You might also consider that if you adjust your belt tension for cold weather flying like some do, you'll need additional room to slide your tail box back.

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD

Thanks!! It not too late. I am waiting for the parts. That is great information. I will cut it longer and try it. Thanks again.

[RyanW]

Just a heads up- if you go from the modified 500 with the 25 mm OD tail boom to the logo 550 SX, make sure you put the grounding strap at the rearward location. With the large diameter boom, there isn't a slot in the boom like there is on the 550SX, so you can put the grounding strap in either location molded into the frame. Since my 500 has always had the 600 boom, the grounding strap has always been in the forward location and zero issues.

I purchased the 550SX kit before IRCHA, because we couldn't get parts and I built it as my other 500 was, not even thinking about the fact the boom has slots which means there is no metal in the forward mounting location. I was in a hurry and didn't do my continuity check like I always do. It flew great up until last month when a massive static discharge blanked out the FBL unit.

ALWAYS do a continuity check!!!

[Freeskiken]

Thank you. I just built my Logo 500SE have not had the maiden flight yet. When I drilled the hole for the front screw, through the hole in the frame it went through aluminum. Ran the wire from the pined boom to the motor mount bolt and from the boom to the bolt for the rear belt tension (2) bearings. I haven't checked for continuity yet.

[darkfa8]

just thought I'd share some thoughts on my short boom L600...

it was running great, but then started showing signs of a defective belt. The belt would ride up on the front main pulley and was apparently also causing a repeating squeal. In my troubleshooting I noticed that applying vertical pressure to the boom caused the belt to move up and down on the main pulley. It's possible that while in flight this movement could have distorted the belt causing it to be a problem.

I think it's wise to use the boom supports to mostly eliminate this boom flex and keep the belt traveling along a consistent path through the pulleys.

I'm also changing to a carbon boom to help reduce expansion/contraction during temp swings.

I'm running a Bando 630XL belt. I'm also changing from my L600SX head/550mm blade configuration to a L500SX head and may swap on 560-570mm blades to further reduce disc loading.

[prototype3a]

I've heard some 'squealing' from mine as well, but I was under the impression it was the motor bearings going out. I'll have to check my belt.

[darkfa8]

you could also try disengaging the motor from the main gear and spool it up to see if the motor squeals on it's own. Though it might only do it when it's side loaded by the rest of the drive-train. Testing is worth a shot, should only take a few minutes.

[prototype3a]

I was running a 3026-1000 so I picked up a 4015-1070 cheap to try out. If it was the bearings, the 4015 should do well since it has much larger bearings.

But, I may spin up my 3026 in a spare airframe to see what it does.

[flyboynellor]

Found this post to be very informative. I decided to do the mod for a different reason. I bought the Mikado carbon frames to class up the already nice looking 500. I couldn't get the stock tail boom to stop rotating in the frame clamps. I tried everything including wrapping the tail boom with tape. Nothing worked. Hopefully going to the 600 size boom will stop the rotation. Fingers crossed. I plan on using the boom supports along with the horizontal fin. I like the looks. Have to order a few parts from Ready Heli. One part is B/O. I sure hope Mikado chooses a bigger North American Dist. I get tired of seeing B/O's on there site. Just my rant. I'll post my findings once I get it flying. Wish me luck.

[craigjell]

Does anyone have an idea of a)Logo 600 boom wall thickness and b)Type/ grade of aluminium to use. I want to try this mod on my Logo 500SE but am looking to source some alu tubing from EBay since I'll be spraying it anyways. I'm looking at this stuff:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aluminium-...item3f126804c1

will this work?

[Riq]

You can also source booms from walmart/homedepot etc out of shower curtain rod. Ive been using it on raptor 90s and logo 600s for many years without issue. *The current rod I picked up fits my logos, but is a bit tighter than stock. Regardless, many flights and no issues.

[prototype3a]

I may have to browse the Lowes because I want to try running a shorter boom and blades but I don't want to cut down one of my 'good' booms to do it.

[maarset]

Way back when I had a Logo 500 I really wanted to do this to it.
Now the only logo I have left is a 600SE that has been converted to a 690SX.
So I have a Logo 500 rotor head.
Was going to get a Logo 600 Aluminum boom to cut down. My 690SX has the carbon boom and I still want
to have the possibility to turn it back into a 690SX.

I really wanted to continue to use the CNC 690SX front and rear pulley and the beefy OWB. Yes a little over kill.
I found the HDT belt that was around 61 inches which is pretty close to a 608XL belt. But I believe I will still be
able to swing atleaset 560 blades right?
I really wanted to find a belt to make it the length of the 550SX but oh well.

Should I cut the 600 boom to the length of the Logo 500 boom?
I read above that it should be maybe half an inch longer since it goes into the frame a little more.
I was thinking about making it around 24 inches or 609 mm

Yes it will be a little heavy but it should be pretty tough with the 690SX belt system.

[maarset]

Just realized I'm going to have a major issue with this plan.
Since I will be using a old Scorpion 4025-1100 KV motor with 25mm spacing I was
going to put in a mikado 25mm motor mount.
So I would not be using the Counter Bearing. But now I realize the Counter Bearing holds the
main gear on like the circlip on the non SX models.
Dammit.
So the only thing I can do it is find a 4025-1100 motor that has the 32mm motor spacing but I
don't know if that exists....