Squeal on new HBFP V2??

[frizbal]

Hey guys, I got my HBFP V2 as the next step up in line of learning to fly. Well... My heli started making a squealing noise around the main shaft/motor area at lower RPM's. When the squealing occurs, it loses slight power while the noise is present. So basically when the noise happens the heli spins slightly and falls a bit then when the squeal is gone all is well. I've read a bit and see two things that it could be (from common problems). 1) the motor is going out and 2) a bearing is going out. Is this possible with hardly any flight time and being LESS than a week old??
Thanks for any help!

[Oldladypilot]

Back your motor off from the gear so it's not touching then run it. If it still squeals then it's your motor. If not, then it could be a bearing. It could also be the alignment of the motor pinion with the gear teeth....too tight maybe.

If it is your motor, I suggest you replace it with a CP3 motor. Much better motor!

It's not unheard of to have a bad part right out of the box.

[Viet-Lama]

+1 to pinion to main gear mesh too tight.
If still squeeking then drop some oil on all bearings
Still squeeking? Spray a healthy shot of WD 40 (or better yet, "electronic oil" spray) into the main motor

[Bugster]

Originally Posted by Viet-Lama

+1 to pinion to main gear mesh too tight.
If still squeeking then drop some oil on all bearings
Still squeeking? Spray a healthy shot of WD 40 (or better yet, "electronic oil" spray) into the main motor

+1 I've used WD40 to great effect silencing squeaky DC motors that were down on power and they have really sprung back to life..

[boykintom]

Originally Posted by Oldladypilot

Back your motor off from the gear so it's not touching then run it. If it still squeals then it's your motor. If not, then it could be a bearing. It could also be the alignment of the motor pinion with the gear teeth....too tight maybe.

If it is your motor, I suggest you replace it with a CP3 motor. Much better motor!

It's not unheard of to have a bad part right out of the box.

I didn't use a CP3 370 motor until after installing the King 2 esc, and it ran well with that, but I hear from others that the CP3 370 is too much for the internal esc on the stock 4 in 1, causing early burnout. Have you had any issues with this?

[frizbal]

Well I backed the motor off and ran it. It didn't make the squeal (maybe from reduced load) but it still didn't sound quite right. I also spun the rotor by hand to see if I could hear any resistance from bearings (before it would squeal just by a hand-spin) and nothing. So it has got to be either the motor or the pinion being too tight. I back the pinion off slightly but will still order a new motor since it is something I may want to have around anyway.
Thanks for the help guys.

[Oldladypilot]

Originally Posted by boykintom

I didn't use a CP3 370 motor until after installing the King 2 esc, and it ran well with that, but I hear from others that the CP3 370 is too much for the internal esc on the stock 4 in 1, causing early burnout. Have you had any issues with
this?

No I don't have that problem. I forgot to mention that I have a CP3 3 in 1 paired with my stock receiver.

[boykintom]

That's probably why you haven't had any trouble with the CP3 370, the esc in the 3 in 1 was designed to use that motor.

[Oldladypilot]

Correct. That's what I meant.
When I suggested the CP3 motor to frisbal I forgot that I had a CP3 3 in 1 on my V2.
So it won't work for him unless he does the same mod on his Honey Bee.

[boykintom]

Originally Posted by Oldladypilot

Correct. That's what I meant.
When I suggested the CP3 motor to frisbal I forgot that I had a CP3 3 in 1 on my V2.
So it won't work for him unless he does the same mod on his Honey Bee.

Got it. BTW, how is the 500 build coming? I'll start my build in a couple of weeks and will definitely be looking for advice. I will break out the DX6i then, too, and that will be another whole learning curve.

[Oldladypilot]

I haven't had much time to work on it. I'm at the point I need to sit down with the heli next to me at the computer and go through Finless's Bob's servo and head set up videos so I can get it tweaked to perfection. (I hope).
I've also gotten some advice from friends on here regarding transmitter settings so that's what I'll be doing this weekend.

If the weather's not to bad I may get to try it out.

My Trex 500GF will be here today or tomorrow. Parts are on order for that so it's next on my list.

Look back through our build threads for info and use Finless's videos to help with the build and set up. Nuttcaze also has some good videos on youtube.

Besides my battery charger, I think my DX6i is the best purchase I've made in this hobby. You'll catch on to it pretty fast, it's easy to use, just takes awhile to learn what each setting and switch does.
I'm using it for 4 helis now and if I convert my Bee over to a Spektrum receiver I can use it with that too.

[boykintom]

I have everything I need to convert the Bee to Spektrum, but right now it is flying so well I hate to mess with anything. I'll probably do it sooner or later, though, just to keep from having to use 2 transmitters.

[frizbal]

Ok peeps, back to it. I adjusted the motor so the pinion would fit a little better and it seemed to make the squeal go away (it did it maybe a couple more times).

Well now my heli won't fly but only 2.5 minutes. As it gets a couple minutes into flight it starts losing power and eventually won't lift. It is almost like a dead battery but I don't over drain it and charge it correctly. And the battery reads that it is still fully charged (from my multimeter).

Also as I get only a little into my flight it starts to turn slightly to the right and I have to keep adjusting the trim for the rear rotor. But as soon as I charge it, the trim needs to go back to normal and then the whole cycle starts over again.

The motor has a bad smell coming from it. Is it safe to say the motor is toast and the adjusting of the trim is because as the main motor starts to poop out during flight, more power goes to the rear causing it to turn right?

[Oldladypilot]

Just a guess, but maybe your motor pinion/gear fit is too tight causing the motor to work too hard, and/or the motor is going bad.

Try a new motor and leave the mounting screws a little loose. turn the gear by hand and run a piece of paper between the pinion and gear teeth to get it to mesh with the right clearance, then tighten the mounting screws.

[frizbal]

Originally Posted by Oldladypilot

Just a guess, but maybe your motor pinion/gear fit is too tight causing the motor to work too hard, and/or the motor is going bad.

Try a new motor and leave the mounting screws a little loose. turn the gear by hand and run a piece of paper between the pinion and gear teeth to get it to mesh with the right clearance, then tighten the mounting screws.

I'll try the paper trick next time. I'm pretty sure this motor has had it. I'm going do a couple more tests tomorrow.

I would love to throw another motor in there if I could find one. Everywhere I look is sold out! I did find one place at thinkrc.com
any other suggestions of where to find motors for the V2?

I also notice that there are two replacement motors. A 10T and 9T pinion. Which of these is the one I need?

[boykintom]

It's a very good bet that your motor is the problem. Here's the one you want: http://www.eskyhelicopters.com/part-...ion-p-282.html

[Oldladypilot]

frisbal, I have an extra stock motor I don't think I'll ever use since I'm using the CP3 motor now. It's yours if you want it. PM me. Probably cost around $5-6 dollars to send priority mail and I live fairly close to you so you should get it within a few days.

Let me know.

[Luke Warmwater]

The effect of the battery seeming to suddenly die when it is fully charged is a textbook example of main motor failing (or failed). When my first motor went, I spend ages trying to figure out what was wrong with my batteries....lol.

When you get a new one, as has been quite correctly advised, do the paper crinkle test. Also, don't be afraid to lubricate your heli; moving parts should ALWAYS be lubricated; friction causes heat, wastes battery power, wears things out quickly and just simply causes damage!

At the risk of correctly being accused of a bit of self-promotion (), check this out:
https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=162565

[Bugster]

Originally Posted by Luke Warmwater

At the risk of correctly being accused of a bit of self-promotion (), check this out:
https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=162565

Very good sticky from an expert - we should all follow the advice

[Luke Warmwater]

Originally Posted by Bugster

Very good sticky from an expert - we should all follow the advice

Thank you...thank you....I'm here all week....