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Engines and Mufflers Having problems or need advice on Engines or Mufflers? |
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05-24-2012, 02:20 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jan 2011
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This needs to be settled now!!!
I recently got my os 55 hz back from hobby services bc of a rear bearing retainer failure, which by the way, they have excellent customer service but I don't agree with their findings
They said it failed bc of rust There was brown residue, which is normal from what I understand But no rust, the repair cost 200 but they gave me a 60% discount I just got it back today and I sent it out last teusday which isn't a bad turnaround! The comments say to use after run oil and feul that has atleast 18% oil mix and to run the engine dry after use I ran cool power but I have switched ovEr to rotar rage. I never use after run oil bc the fuel left over in the engine has worked for me. This motor had about 70 flights with the stock rear bearing without any running after run oil What is the proper motor care for weekend flyers??????? After run? Run engine dry? Which feul? Feul storage? I have gotten so many conflicting opinions I want a real ANSWER Thanks Srry for the rant I am so frustrated
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Vcontrol-Vbar-Nitro Gov Whip Nitro 105 Awaiting V2 Conversion Synergy N7 105 *Perspective is key* |
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05-24-2012, 02:27 PM | #2 (permalink) |
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I've had .60 motors rust solid over the weekend. I've seen .051 rust solid over night. On the flips side I've had motors last 30 years and still on the same bearings.
If I remember I'll run them dry and try not to think about what could happen. I also use fuel with more than 21% oil.
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05-24-2012, 03:15 PM | #3 (permalink) |
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I had a habit of running dry last flight, and I always added 2 ounces of castor oil to a gallon of fuel. The local pharmacy sold 4 ounce bottles cheap. This ended my rust problems in a very humid part of the country
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05-24-2012, 03:17 PM | #4 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
The argument for running an engine dry, instead of closing the throttle is that you remove most, if not all of the fuel. Also the engine is hot, and so it also helps evaporate any residue of alcohol. If you ever have pinched off the fuel tubing on the intake of a carb, while the engine was idling, you know the engine can keep running more than a few seconds off the fuel left in the bottom of the crankcase. The problem with alcohol is that it is hygroscopic----it will actually suck water from the air. So now you have a quite humid atmosphere inside your crankcase. If left long enough, that can begin rust on the bearings. Now rust doesn't have to be big flakes, just the brown oxide you were describing. By the way, do you do know that iron oxide is a polishing agent. Anyway next time you run the engine, that brown dust gets distributed over your engine, polishing it away. As far as I am concerned, I always run my engine dry. It seems to nominally work. I can't say though that I have never experienced the brown powdery dust you describe. I have. But like running lipo batteries down to only the 20% level, I figure a little care doesn't hurt. Then there is/was the issue of nitro, synthetic oils, castor.....but lets not go there! |
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05-24-2012, 03:30 PM | #5 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
I was told that an engines piston should be a carmel brown color, no? This brown residue, acts as a lubrictor and helps when you have the occasional lean run? Thats what i was led to believe
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05-24-2012, 03:45 PM | #6 (permalink) |
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It sounds like the engine manufacturer gave you recommendations for proper care. If you don't have confindence in what they tell you what makes you think others on this forum will have better advice?
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05-24-2012, 03:48 PM | #7 (permalink) | |
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I don't think most heli fuels add castor (don't know for sure), so the brown may be indicators of a lean run, but can't be positive. It has been ~15 years since I flew a glow heli. I will admit to adding a dollop of castor oil to my Cruel Power gallons back in those days! But we don't want to get into the castor/synthetic debate! My attitude is that running the engine out dry was easy to do, and I don't think there is much if any downside. |
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05-24-2012, 03:50 PM | #8 (permalink) |
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Not trying to say that HV servos improve anyones flying or are even necessary but there are advantages. Higher stall torque, lower current draw for a given load on the servo, and you don't have to worry about stepping down voltage. Are they worth the extra cost, probably not but there are advantages.
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05-24-2012, 05:00 PM | #9 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
If you have to post than do some research first. You would know that there is a known issue with os rear bearings and recommendations. ect ect
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05-24-2012, 05:27 PM | #10 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
I have opened up new out of the box engines and the bearings was rusty. i got engines that have never had rust problems. IMHOP Its the bearing quality, that is the biggest facter.
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05-24-2012, 05:44 PM | #11 (permalink) |
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Im a weekend-flyer, and I never use after-run oil. I fly Rapicon, and will continue with it as long as I fly nitro-helis. My bearings never rust, but I change them every start of a new season, when I service my motors anyway.
Some of the bearings I have taken out have been so good, I may consider leaving them in for longer next time. But it depends on how often they are started during the winter. My experience with the stock OS55 rear bearing is good actually, as it lasted a whole season before I changed it. I had read about others failing, so I wanted to get some rcbearings in there.
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05-24-2012, 05:52 PM | #12 (permalink) |
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I've allwAys let my nitro cars run dry and no ar oil. Just pulled my savage out of storage and motor nice and clean inside. No rust!!! And, it was stored for over 3 years in a fairly humid environment. I have a few hundred gallons of aquariums in my house and t often feels like a rainforest inside
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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05-25-2012, 09:58 AM | #13 (permalink) |
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Ok so when you put after run oil in after flight but when you go to fly again how do you get it out?
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Vcontrol-Vbar-Nitro Gov Whip Nitro 105 Awaiting V2 Conversion Synergy N7 105 *Perspective is key* |
05-25-2012, 10:03 AM | #14 (permalink) |
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not sure if it's already been mentioned but, did you know that you can replace the bearings yourself? The procedure is on these forums and there are a few videos as well. $200 seems fair but personally I'd have done it myself and saved a ton of cash.
Jer
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05-25-2012, 10:13 AM | #15 (permalink) | |
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Ohh yeah i know how to do everything, but i sent it in to hobby services to see if they would warrant it(long shot, but hey i have a brand new engine except crank case and head for 85, I would say thats cheaper than anything you and me could have done) It wasnt just the bearing retainer, it wreaked havoc on my motor and hobby services repaired it for alot less than if i were to buy the parts myself.
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05-25-2012, 10:14 AM | #16 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
Not a big fan of adding Castor oil to my fuel....Engine oil shouldn't be purchased at a drug store. Not a fan of after run oil either...Just run the engine dry at the end of the day. I used to think closing the barrel cut off the fuel but a member here schooled me on that Close the fuel line. |
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05-25-2012, 10:27 AM | #17 (permalink) |
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Don't you mean that you schooled the member ? I can't picture you getting schooled on anything.
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05-25-2012, 10:53 AM | #18 (permalink) |
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i use after run oil never had a problem with rust on my bearings or any going bad . the only thing i dont like about after run oil is the first start up it runs too rich or alot of smoke .
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05-25-2012, 10:57 AM | #19 (permalink) |
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I was looking at rc bearings
whats is the difference between chrome steel and regular. I want the the ones that have the plastic retainer or the ones that last the longest
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