The tail booms for the Nano CPx break to easy.

[tchilds]

The extra weight is hardly noticeable true. It adds up fast too if you tackle every problem with this approach.

I thought this thread was about booms that are just weak though, which I do not find to be the case. A stock mcpx snaps booms like a twig almost every hit versus the nano bouncing off the tail over and over again. By comparison I have to say the nano's hollow tail is plenty strong in the air and occasionally on the ground )

The extra weight of a cage on your tail and solid boom "upgrade" with shrink wrap added to hold the wires to it... is about double the weight of the stock tail w/cage cut off the motor mount. Doubling the weight of something affects the heli big time, think scale. To the helicopter, double the weight means less ability for same function. This articulates to your inputs and comes back on you in the form of crashing, yet again which brings diminishing returns back on your modification. Increasing the weight of something on the nano that is already very durable should not be taken so lightly.

If you're constantly crashing, definitely upgrade the boom to solid because the split CF boom twists very very far in the air. If you're hearing a noise like you have a bad tail rotor, but the tail rotor is 100% fine, your hollow CF boom is split and is getting torqued on by the tail motor. This causes it to twist which again causes the heli to fly like crap in 3d and causes you to crash. In this case yes, if you've been flying on broken hollow 2mm booms the solid 2mm boom is going to over all increase the performance. The weight of a solid 2mm boom is not going to offset the gains over a split/cracked hollow 2mm boom.

Again I say, why not just buy hollow 2mm for $5 a meter and have the best of both worlds. Light weight and 100% functional for little to no cost. Repairing hollow cf with epoxy is a snap too.

FYI, 99% of the "my tail is doing X" threads around here is because people are flying on split CF and not just doing a quick twist check on it to make sure its still together before they fly hard.

The splits in the stock hollow CF originate at the flats cut into the CF. Probably because the wires are just slightly too thick to fit through these stock booms, which causes them to split on the weakened flat ends. Once that has happened, pretty much from the factory, they'll continue to split until you DIY your own or learn to epoxy it. This isn't a good reason to nearly double the weight of a part as it isn't hard to avoid these issues.

The stock hollow booms may be good, may be bad. The thickness of the walls, or the inner diameter of the CF tube made on a tuesday may be better than a wednesday. Basically its the luck of the draw out of the package. Doing your own custom booms will negate all these issues, among many more people have with the nano.

If HH wants to charge $12 or w/e for a stock boom setup that isn't properly quality checked and just leaves it to the consumer to disassemble and inspect the boom ends before flight, I have no problem going elsewhere for the booms. Its hard to complain what we pay for out of the box but only a fool continues to supply their heli via direct replacement parts in this case.

I don't really consider the stock hollow boom a good example of what hollow 2mm can really be or think it is a fair comparison of solid to hollow.

[Daryoon]

Most people don't know how to twist check for fractured booms. It's easy to spot once you learn though.

I like to fly with 2mm hollow. But I've been making a new boom every night. LOL

I hate the look of a wrapped solid boom.

So, if you have a way to mount the 3mm hollow on a stock frame, I'm all ears.

Otherwise, I am gonna do a 2mm hollow, with as much strands of threads running through it's cavity and then wicking super glue to turn it into a solid frame. See how that holds up over a hollow 2mm by itself.

Often times, the cracking is where the motor mount and frame mount. So, perhaps those two area, I can fill with epoxy instead.

Upside is, the wires all run internally. So it's nice and clean.

I personally like a 2mm square boom. Cuz it's easier to make and not worry about filing each end perfectly to not remove too much material. Nor keep the two filed end on the same plane. Any tips for that?

[Daryoon]

Ok, the D shape of the nano cpx removes too much material. Fractures seems to start right there and then your boom is twistable. Losing it's strength.

I am going with 2mm square. Will work much better for me and easier to fabricate from 1meter stock. No filing of the ends necessary.

[SHYguy]

Originally Posted by Daryoon

Ok, the D shape of the nano cpx removes too much material. Fractures seems to start right there and then your boom is twistable. Losing it's strength.

I am going with 2mm square. Will work much better for me and easier to fabricate from 1meter stock. No filing of the ends necessary.

Cool! Give us step-by-step pics!

[RontaryUS]

My experience: I started to experience a tail wag going worst when i moded to solid CF tail boom. After you verify all other potential sources of wag (correct spindle tightness, main shaft...), make sure you have the right length for the cf you make. It worked for me with a total length of 100-103mm. Make sure you fully slip the tail in motor mount and frame. Glue or cement both ends to avoid vibrations. Also, try different tail blades (they are not all equal out of the box...).

To tchilds' point, the solid cf is heavier and not as flexible as the stock hollow so the frame will become mushy as taking the force. You will have to change it more frequently if you want a perfectly 'wag free' heli...

If you practice hover and slow moves, the wag is kinda nerve raking. I'd recommend you stay with a stock hollow tail boom then and ensure you hit throttle hold early when crashing. If you do 3d in idle up, it won't be a big deal as far as it is not too much so go for the solid cf mod..

[Alex4R]

Originally Posted by RontaryUS

To tchilds' point, the solid cf is heavier and not as flexible as the stock hollow so the frame will become mushy as taking the force. You will have to change it more frequently if you want a perfectly 'wag free' heli...

That makes perfect sense, I noticed my frame moves left to right pretty easily where the boom mounts. When I use my 25C batteries it wags quite a bit, but the extra rpm I get from the 35C eflites cures it.

If everything was balanced, it shouldn't matter how stiff or flexible the boom and frame are.

As far as weight, my solid boom with microheli tail mount and 30awg insulated wire is 3.0g, and my stock boom weighed in at 2.8g.

[mackmir456]

Originally Posted by CobraKiller

I was wondering if anybody else was having these issues? I've been through 2 tail booms in the last 2 weeks and my 3rd is starting to break. Does anyone know of a better tail boom that would work on the Nano?

I had the same problem and replaced the tail boom with a 2mm aluminum bike spoke,I'm running brusless set up and could not notice the extra weight.She flies great and and its tought as nails and I'm saving dough

[jp0160]

I haven't had any bad experiences with the DIY 2mm solid boom. They are strong enough to break the stock frame or tail case rather than the boom! Hardly a weight difference at all. As for the main shaft, I tried to make one myself but the 2mm rod I have seems to be a few thousandths of an inch to thick and the swash won't move freely

Now that I think about it I still have the original hollow boom. I removed it after a few days just for giggles. The second hand nano I picked up did have a CA glued stock boom though

[FaisalHeli's]

Yea I have this problem too, and landing gear keeps breaking it would be impossible for it to live through a week lol.
I found Carbon Fiber Tail boom stretch at rotor quest and im thinking about getting it and cut it to the original size, a bit longer maybe..

[Krinaman]

I take a 3" piece 1/8 shrink tubing and use it on the stock hollow tail shafts. You can get the wire through it without any soldiering. Then shrink it once it's in place. Adds next to no weight and the tail takes a beating without breaking.

[Wildcat1214]

Originally Posted by nk12

I wrapped dental floss around the boom then brushed Elmo glue on top. The boom is very solid now.

I did this too, except I coated the boom with CA instead of Elmers glue. Wrap it tight with dental floss and coat with CA, rock solid. I even reused and fixed the same stock boom using this technique, it was a good long while before I needed a new boom.

[Corvette & Copter Guy]

My stock Nano has seen the gym floor countless times. All the guys can't believe nothing has broken. Extreme canopy has a small crack and that's it. I have the WORST luck when it comes to micro's. The Nano and Mcpx V2 have been the best. That's over the 130, 150, and 180.