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Mikado Logo 700 Xxtreme Mikado Logo 700 Xxtreme Helicopters Discussion |
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12-18-2012, 10:25 AM | #21 (permalink) | |
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I leave my batteries on the plate too, its SO much easier than strapping and restrapping in my opinion They almost got it right, if they had come up with a way to clamp that plate and attached packs down without the 4 stupid cap cap screws, they would have had it. I hope that's ok to say here.. After all the reps should be reading this to see what their customers think in my opinion
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12-18-2012, 12:01 PM | #22 (permalink) |
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Am I missing something here? Tools required to install battery packs on the 700? You guys leave the packs strapped on the plate? Do you only have one set of batteries?
I sat up all night building my 700 yesterday, and I really can't see what you are talking about. The only thing I see needed to install battery packs is simply the Velcro straps. That being said, I rushed trough the build just to see how the final machine looks, so I could be missing something. I am waiting for some items to arrive anyways. Excited to see how this thing flies considering all the mixed opinions here...
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Mathias Lynx Oxy 3 | JR XG14 |
12-18-2012, 12:33 PM | #23 (permalink) | |
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Myself, I leave the tray in the heli and just strap the packs to the tray before each flight. I'd prefer a quick release cf battery tray setup, BUT I also don't see it being a huge deal to leave the tray and velcro straps in the heli and fasten the packs each time. Hopefully that clears up your confusion
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12-18-2012, 12:50 PM | #24 (permalink) |
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Thanks, Steve!
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Mathias Lynx Oxy 3 | JR XG14 |
12-18-2012, 01:41 PM | #25 (permalink) |
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Steve is certainly right. its not a huge deal either way you do it. I hope someone comes up with a quick release mod. Haven't really though about it and of douse it would have to be safe...
I used to share packs between a 6s L500 and a 12 S 600Se, so never made the 12S into a stick... Now loading the 600SE was a pain compared to either way you do it on the 700. I ended up never taking both to the field to fly, so I could just leave them in the 600Se and charge between every flight. Not the nest idea I know, but at 2s it seemed pretty safe. On the 800' I have several packs each with a plate. On the 800 all 4 screens had slotted holes, just loosen and slide the packs back and remove. Can't drop the screws, you never take them out, I haven't built my 700 yet, though I start Sunday. If all 4 holes aren't slotted, then they will be when I get done with the Dremel. Either way, I do like the saddle pack idea, especially since I am going 7s on this Heli, can use the room, On the 800 its is balanced very nicely, essy to get. Big pack in the right spot, On the 70 I am using 7S 4400 mah packs, not that ,much heavier than 6s. It should balance ok..fingers crossed on that one. Sorry for hijacking this thread,
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12-18-2012, 03:07 PM | #26 (permalink) | |
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Conclusion: Yours and others notes HAVE been conveyed to Mikado and WILL be noted for future things. All things if even small are appreciated indeed. What they do, change, improve etc is entirely in their control not mine. Enter Mr. Mel's signature here I'm done as here for now as well, have good holidays everyone!!!
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...Once upon a time there were Nitros, flybars & frequency pins...Shawn |
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12-18-2012, 03:34 PM | #27 (permalink) |
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And now is when Dave Dahl rolls in with his famous tact and somehow none of us will be aware there was ever any angst at all
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12-18-2012, 04:10 PM | #28 (permalink) |
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It's all your's fellas
I'm headed to go build a 700 while watching wrestling on WWF.
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12-18-2012, 06:12 PM | #29 (permalink) | |
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So I pull the whole set out and charge at 4c. Go fly another heli and the 700 packs are charged. When you can buy extra battery trays for the 700 I will because its easier than straps to me.
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Wayne Logo 480 / Logo 600sx / Logo 690 / Logo 700 / Vbar Control |
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12-18-2012, 08:09 PM | #30 (permalink) |
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No worries fellas Definetely going to stress a quick change option on packs. Just the solution will need to be 100% reliable while in flight that's the tricky part.
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...Once upon a time there were Nitros, flybars & frequency pins...Shawn |
12-18-2012, 09:37 PM | #31 (permalink) |
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Yes, and the current solution puts the onus on the user, if screws not tight, battery falls out. Easy to prove it works when they are tight, liability issue solved... Not a bad solution really.
Simple I can live with it
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12-18-2012, 11:07 PM | #32 (permalink) |
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Just checked my 700 , kit just in last week.
Battery tray will key it's way out just like the 800 does. Loosen the 4 bolts and slide forward. I think it's a great system. Packing a 3mm driver in the TX case is far easier than all the other gear i take to field every time. Not to mention the folks who do the full on charging with genny at the field. I know i can pull my pack out and load another one far faster than it takes a fellow flyier to load his pack into a 700e , 700n conversion takes even longer. Granated i think the tool less setup would be cool also. My thoughts ... Have a shouldered cap in place onthe posts ( much like the stock bolt loosened ) , enlarge the larger holes on the battery plate as the shouldered cap will most likely be larger than the stock 3mm hex head. A tapered oval shaped piece of plastic surrounding evey hole on batt plate. Then a bracket with a spring loaded pin on it. Batter would be placed over the 4 shouldered caps ( and thru the oval tapered things stuck to the batt plate ) then it gets slid forward (just like stock) , the oval shaped parts will cause the plate to become a tighter fit , then once in place the spring loaded pin will click into the hole in the battery plate ( will need to line up this stuff and drill batt plate) securing it in place. To remove something small pushes into hole , or make the backside of the spring loaded pin have pull ring. Once pin out of plate it can slide back and out again. I think it could be done. Any thoughts ? If anyone want to use my idea , just send me a prototype to test Martin
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12-18-2012, 11:39 PM | #33 (permalink) |
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I've been following this too Shawn as I really thought the battery capture design would be better than it is (and I don't even have a 700 yet).
Please do continue to stress the change. An official Mikado solution would be much preferred over a "mod". -Dave ps, I think Martin might be on to something.
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Last edited by 3D Dave; 12-19-2012 at 01:18 PM.. |
12-18-2012, 11:57 PM | #34 (permalink) | |
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Ok back to topic, lets start a mini competition for you guys, lets see who can make the best modification with the least amount of work on the removeable tray, it has the potential to be one of the best systems.
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12-19-2012, 04:24 AM | #35 (permalink) |
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Stolla last comments in this regards...
blew what cover?, recover from what? Very confusing.......Norman pointed out all same and I helped to clarify more...why the drama? Anyhooooooooooooo...I don't BS people so the Rep comments pissed me off yes, like I said if it were crap or had many worry some issues I GUARANTEE I wouldn't own one or praise it and that's that period. I call it like it is nothing less, and when there are genuine issues I also assure you or anyone I do my best to relay and continue to try to get results...Good you got concerns although small. Tell us how the 14s setup goes when you do it, be well. Moving forward if its possible I will relay anything new but mentioned gripes here already have been processed.
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...Once upon a time there were Nitros, flybars & frequency pins...Shawn |
12-19-2012, 04:35 AM | #36 (permalink) | |
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Neat idea yes.... What u need just tray? You have a CNC mill or anything?
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...Once upon a time there were Nitros, flybars & frequency pins...Shawn |
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12-19-2012, 08:20 AM | #37 (permalink) |
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I'm picturing something like this...
Have the holes on the left or the right slotted on the battery tray (one side already is if I remember correctly). Then on the other side, you use something like those pull apart keychains for attaching the tray. That way you mount the one half on the heli as the receiver and the other half pushes into that to hold the battery tray on so it cant slide out. Then when you want to take the tray out, you just push in the pins and lift the top half out, then slide the battery tray out. I've attached a picture of the keychains I mean for reference.
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12-19-2012, 08:57 AM | #38 (permalink) |
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Sadly no CNC mil for me. Sure would be nice though.
Just an idea i had after using the 800 for ~60 flights. sgrim80 , yes that pin locking style connector. The quick release canopy connectors could be modified to fit. The grommet would even help with shifting and vibrations. Possible downside : Only 1 pin locking plate in place ( making the size and integrity of that pin critical ) As for location , i'd assume towards the front. I haven't got to the battery/CG stage yet so where the battery's fit onto the plate i don't know. Certian a set of 5000's isn't that long though. I'm also thinknig it would involve a cnc'd part that would replace the front (or rear ) posts and have a tab/section that would come back a bit to work with the pin locker. Looks like a V. Or would a dual pin setup be better , pin the front and the back for a 1 pin backup. Martin
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12-19-2012, 09:18 AM | #39 (permalink) |
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I was thinking 2 pins RCMarty...I'd try not to rely on one pin to hold my battery in, much like we dont rely on 1 strap LOL
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Team Mikado USA!!! Team Scorpion! Logo 600SX - Scorpion 4035-560, 10s 4400 packs Logo 690SX - Stock Scorpion motor, 12s 4500 packs |
12-20-2012, 09:42 PM | #40 (permalink) |
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Stolla. I too have found the tail gain of 85 to be too high as well..... what are you using on the tail??
I am at 75 and there is still I slight oscillation, I had major tail wag issues for the first 4 flights or so, after removing and rebuilding the tail assembly, oiling the slider assembly and oiling the carbon pushrod where it slides through the guide I seem to have solved my chronic wag ..... still just the little oscillation at gain setting of 75....... |
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