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Old 09-19-2014, 07:00 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Jomaba4308 View Post
What size mains will you use with that belt? I have been following this thread because I want to stretch but there are only a couple 470mm blades so I would like to try 500mm blades with more options.
My goal is to have enough room for up to 553mm main blades since sometimes blade makers go a bit past 550mm.

I think TitaniumFreak could help you with finding a proper belt for 500 to 520mm mains.
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Old 09-30-2014, 09:32 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Recently got the motor back from a very talented machinist. Thanks HeliHaven!

Check out some of this guys work here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2172696



I still have to cut the shaft to length and grind a flat spot. I'm planning on using the full Lynx tail upgrade and if the belt is long enough to allow, a double idler pulley mod to reduce strain on the pinion.

Credit to DoubleCH for the mod. Excellent idea.

As luck would have it someone was selling a Spektrum H6210 so that was the last bit of electronics on my shopping list.

Almost there. I know this is taking a while. If only I could put real life on pause so I could do more tinkering.

Last edited by kavic5150; 09-30-2014 at 11:13 PM..
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Old 10-10-2014, 08:10 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Got quite a bit done earlier this morning. But wouldn't you know it, I ran out of the stainless steel M2.5 bolts I like to use. Time to reorder from RTLfasteners.

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Old 10-10-2014, 10:21 AM   #24 (permalink)
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kavic5150,

Awesome plexiglass frames. They'll be great for troubleshooting, however; it will require a very neat cabling job.

I think that the stock plastic frame has less room to stow stuff than the carbon frame. What parts do you need to convert from a plastic frame to a carbon, or in your case a plexiglass frame?

Nice job,

Paul
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Old 10-10-2014, 10:42 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Thanks for the compliment. I did a halfway decent job considering I used a dremel and only 2 attachments, the cutoff wheel and a drill bit. So theres a few rough spots, but close enough.

That stuff is the green edge plexiglass, but the effect is barely noticeable even in favorable lighting conditions and is much more noticeable with thicker acrylic.

You'll need either the carbon fiber frame sides or the much more affordable Fusuno frame sides.

http://www.fusuno.com/index.php?cPath=931_52_691

And these parts for a flybarless (FBL) setup:

msh51339 and msh51091.

http://www.msh-direct.com/products/9...-msh51339.html

http://www.msh-direct.com/products/c...-msh51091.html

For a flybar setup you will only need the second part number listed, msh51091.

You can reuse the 3rd bearing from the plastic frame as well as the AR bracket, front pulley and its holder.

Last edited by kavic5150; 10-10-2014 at 12:19 PM..
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Old 10-10-2014, 11:47 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Thanks, Paul
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Old 10-12-2014, 08:39 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Just got a Lynx full metal tail in the mail yesterday. Thanks Bill from MSH-direct.com.

And I discovered the motor I picked out doesnt quite fit the Protos motor mount. The stock motor has a 25mm bolt pattern while the Vmax has holes 30mm from center.

So I'll have to do something bad and drill 4 more holes in the stock motor mount. I'm a terrible person.





The brass tubes and aluminum washers are for tail blades with 4mm roots, but can someone tell me what the thin brass washers in the lower right hand corner of the pics are for?
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Old 10-12-2014, 10:20 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kavic5150 View Post
Just got a Lynx full metal tail in the mail yesterday. Thanks Bill from MSH-direct.com.

And I discovered the motor I picked out doesnt quite fit the Protos motor mount. The stock motor has a 25mm bolt pattern while the Vmax has holes 30mm from center.

So I'll have to do something bad and drill 4 more holes in the stock motor mount. I'm a terrible person.


The brass tubes and aluminum washers are for tail blades with 4mm roots, but can someone tell me what the thin brass washers in the lower right hand corner of the pics are for?
These are probably for the thrust bearings. One has an inner diameter that is larger than the other.
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Old 10-12-2014, 10:23 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Tail looks nice. What does the whole tail setup weigh? Make sure that you always use loctite between the bearings and the tail case.
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Old 10-12-2014, 10:42 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Weight is somewhere between 70.1 and 70.9. Its just a cheap ebay digital scale.



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Old 10-12-2014, 11:09 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Awesome build so far, love the plexiglass frame sides and the tail assembly is very clean looking...subscribed
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Old 10-12-2014, 12:02 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Please report back of your experience with the Lynx full metal tail assy. I am very interested in this upgrade!
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Old 10-17-2014, 06:35 AM   #33 (permalink)
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What a great thread. I love seeing builds like this where there is a DIY component. Keep up the great work!
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Old 10-17-2014, 04:41 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Thanks guys.

I did a bit of browsing since the motor I chose for my build isnt exactly a perfect fit. I have to admit I bought it mostly for the colors.

This one looks like it would fit the bill. The bolt spacing and motor diameter look good.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...0KV_1295W.html
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Old 10-17-2014, 08:55 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kavic5150 View Post
Thanks guys.

I did a bit of browsing since the motor I chose for my build isnt exactly a perfect fit. I have to admit I bought it mostly for the colors.

This one looks like it would fit the bill. The bolt spacing and motor diameter look good.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...0KV_1295W.html

Sure that's the right link? Max 5s and made mostly for planks...
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Old 10-18-2014, 06:24 AM   #36 (permalink)
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I'll look around and see if I can find a better match. But the cell count on most motors can easily be exceeded. As long as the bearings can handle the extra speed and you stay below the motors maximum rated wattage you are ok.

Brushless motors do have a maximum voltage. But if I remember right its somewhere around 150v. Those recommended cell counts are given based on the intended application.

This motor on 6s would only be capable of handling 58 amps. Watts divided by volts = amps. So 1295w / 22.2v = 58.3 amps.

Fairly low for a 550 since I saw spikes of over 100 amps on my last 550. But I wouldnt expect to fly a Protos 550 anywhere near 90 percent throttle. Especially with acrylic frame parts.

The big restriction here is motor size. Much bigger than 42mm diameter and you start running out of room in the frame.

I'll keep looking.
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Old 10-19-2014, 02:42 AM   #37 (permalink)
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https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...0kv_1300w.html

I'd been eyeing on this motor before my steel pinion and double-idler mods. It says 7-pole but it probably means 14-pole because there's no such thing as odd number of poles. For anything lower kV than the stock 880 you really need at least 12-pole. Perfect is 14-pole. I was looking for a tiny bit higher kV so that I can run the biggest stock aluminum pinion possible at least 20T to get the most teeth contact. Good that my steel pinion and double-idler mods solved the problem I have no need for such motor but I can see this may be a good choice for super stretch.
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Old 10-19-2014, 02:54 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I'll look around and see if I can find a better match. But the cell count on most motors can easily be exceeded. As long as the bearings can handle the extra speed and you stay below the motors maximum rated wattage you are ok.
Not that easily. If you run 6S with a motor designed for 5S max, you have to take extra caution not to overload the motor. The difference between running 6S on such motor and a motor that's designed to run max 6S with the same power rating is that when you overload the 6S motor it'll just bog and taper off power draw while the 5S counterpart will keep drawing power over the wattage rating as you increase load and burn it up. Check the reviews on the that motor (US warehouse). People burn it up in 3 flights running 6S. With a plane it's easy to limit max load by choosing the right prop. With a 3D heli, it's very easy to overload a motor regardless of how careful you setup cyclic/collective limit.
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Old 10-19-2014, 07:13 AM   #39 (permalink)
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" I was looking for a tiny bit higher kV so that I can run the biggest stock aluminum pinion possible at least 20T to get the most teeth contact."

I think that you might have this backwards. You need a lower KV to run a bigger pinion.
Unless you are lowering your cell count.
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Old 10-19-2014, 09:49 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleCH View Post
https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...0kv_1300w.html

I'd been eyeing on this motor before my steel pinion and double-idler mods. It says 7-pole but it probably means 14-pole because there's no such thing as odd number of poles. For anything lower kV than the stock 880 you really need at least 12-pole. Perfect is 14-pole. I was looking for a tiny bit higher kV so that I can run the biggest stock aluminum pinion possible at least 20T to get the most teeth contact. Good that my steel pinion and double-idler mods solved the problem I have no need for such motor but I can see this may be a good choice for super stretch.
Thanks. That one does look better than the one I posted. Odd how it has the same maxium wattage even though its a significantly larger motor.
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