Compass-USA Sponsored Warp 360 Build Thread

[glenford]

Great stuff Scot. Guess I'll be touching bases with you once my Warp arrives!

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[dunkonu23]

Part two of the tail assembly. I am very deliberate when I build a tail assembly. Every part of the pitch slider, grips, links, and pitch lever must operate as a single unit so there is absolutely no binding of any moving part!



The parts for the tail pitch slider are found in bag 14.



I laid out the parts for the tail pitch slider in such a way to show how they go together.



The first thing to do it check the fit of the links on the balls. I do this now so I know in advance of tight points in the tail mechanism.



If necessary, re-size the link. In my case, it went like this: test fit, resize, test fit, resize, test fit, resize, and finally I had the fit I wanted. This is completely normal. The last thing you want is a link that is too loose or a link that is too tight. Right on the money is a link that will move smoothly around the ball with no tight spots and no slop.



Next, test the fit of the links on the tail pitch slider arms. The links should slide smoothly over the assembly.



If they don't slide smoothly, use a small file and lightly file each side of the attaching point. Don't take off too much. It's best to file, test, repeat, just like resizing links. The proper fit is an attachment point that slides freely over the arm but does not move from side to side when you twist the link on the arm.



After filing the links, its time to install them on the pitch slider. There are two pins and varying methods to install them. I used a pair of smooth faced ball link pliers to firmly hold the pin. (Note: Don't use needle nose pliers--the jaws may scar the metal.) I positioned the pin over the hole in the link, then lightly tapped on the pliers. The goal here is to just start the pin.



The pin was started. Luckily, it went into the hole in the pitch slider arm!



There are many ways to finish installing the pin. I chose a small "C" clamp as shown and tightened down on the pin/link until it was fully inserted.



Fully installed links on the pitch slider arms. Note the orientation of the links! This is important for leading edge control!



Because we're after a very smooth tail assembly, I test fit the brash bushing of the tail pitch slider over the tail output shaft. The bushing should rotate and slide freely on the tail output shaft with no side-to-side play.



Next, I did a test assembly of the tail pitch slider to test fit on the tail output shaft. Again, it should slide and rotate freely throughout the entire length of the tail output shaft.



Next, I soaked the brash bushing in alcohol. Not shown, I cleaned the threads of the pitch slider arm, as well.



I like to clean the inside of the bushing... I dip the corner of a paper towel in alcohol then just twist it in. I do this from both sides of the bushing.



Apply thread locker to the side of the pitch slider arms so it cannot wick up into the bearing.



Use a 7mm wrench to tighten the brass bushing in the pitch slider assembly.



Attach the ball, to the pitch slider. Note that the picture shows the screw in crooked. It's the only way I could take a picture and show the screw being attached--I ran out of hands! As with other metal plastic screws, thread the plastic first, then apply CA to the threads. Finally, screw in the ball. Don't over tighten! This part must rotate freely around the bushing!



The completed pitch slider assembly for leading edge control!



Next, slide the completed pitch slider on the tail output shaft. Test for binding. If there is no binding, you're good to go!



Slide the tail hub/grip assembly over the tail output shaft. Line up the hole for the set-screw with the dimple in the tail output shaft--the set screw will actually fit inside the dimple.



Use blue thread locker on the set-screw and do not over tighten. It should be tight, but there is no need to crank down on the set screw--you may bend something!



Attach the links on the pitch slider to the balls on the grips. Note the orientation.



Next, install the pitch lever. Be careful to get thread the screw straight. Thread it separately, then install the complete assembly. Make sure the small spacer is installed between the mount and the pitch lever as shown above. Test the assembly for smooth action. It should be very smooth with no binding throughout. If you've had a free assembly up to this point, but do not have smooth motion throughout the pitch range, you may have to do as I did: I re-sized the cup for the ball. My tail assembly is now butter smooth. At the outside extreme, you will notice a small rotation of the pitch slider ball, this is normal.



The completed tail assembly (minus blades) with leading edge control!

Next up, we're going to start in on the frame parts!

Scott

[andersn]

Maan, you are tedious (take it as a compliment)

You can build my helis any day

Im gonna start using isopropanol now instead of acetone, its not optimal for indoor use, so Ive been rinsing parts outside.. thanks for tips

[dunkonu23]

LOL! Thanks! Being "tedious" is something I'm good at. LOL!

You're very welcome!

Scott

[sarpilot]

Those are some darn fine pictures…

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[andersn]

Originally Posted by dunkonu23

LOL! Thanks! Being "tedious" is something I'm good at. LOL!

You're very welcome!

Scott

Im variable, like adhd child labour.. I can be tedious, but sometimes, Ill put a 450/500 from partsbags into a flyable heli in 30-45 minutes and go fly... quality will suffer then, but its no problem, I usually dirt nap them before something fatigues. I tend not to respect the small guys, hope the warp give some back.

Our -15c here now and was -22 celsius + winds on saturday, make me like skiiing, more than helis right now, maybe maiden for warp this weekend, maybe next...

Looking forward to the followups and maiden.

[dunkonu23]

Bob O has found a problem in my tail build. The way I built it shows trailing edge control instead of leading edge control. I will fix the tail tomorrow and post updated pictures.

Thanks, Bob!

I shouldn't build when I'm under the weather. My apologies, folks.

Scott

[Rob43]

I would think the operative word here is, "meticulous".

Scott - how did you resize the ball cup for the slider? This was challenging for me on the 7HV V2 tail mechanism. I wound up using a drill bit to ream it. What worked here?

[Bob O]

I'm interested in that too, Rob.

I went through roll pin hell earlier this evening. Though I did manage to get it installed without breaking or bending anything.

[Jeff_Barrett]

Originally Posted by Rob43

How did you resize the ball cup for the slider? What worked here?

I simply used my JR ball link sizing tool and kept turning it while pushing it in and out until the ball was able to move freely inside of it.

Originally Posted by Bob O

I went through roll pin hell earlier this evening.

I'm not sure why everyone has such a challenge with these roll pins? It's getting them out that's more of the challenge, but even then, with the right tool(s) it's easy.

All I did was squeeze one end with a pair of pliers to compress the end enough to get it started in the hole. After that, I just kept whacking it with a set of side-cutters until it was flush (a small finishing hammer might be a little more ideal) with a towel under the whole works. It took me maybe 5 minutes tops.

[dunkonu23]

To resize the cup, like Jeff, I just used my JR ball link sizer. I did it exactly as Jeff described.

Roll pins? Just like I put in the pictures. I did it slowly. I just did the same thing when I corrected the link orientation--I'll post pictures tomorrow. It is now leading edge control.

To take out the roll pins I took an old Align 1.5mm hex driver, put the pitch slider link on a block of soft wood, then just tapped out the roll pin.

Scott

[Rob43]

I have a 1/16" drift punch useful for removal. I have used my arbor press to install them. With the tail shaft, I have a wooden v-block for this. I gripped the pin in needle nose Vise grips, and held it in position as I gently pushed it in with my press.

I have found that making a small chamfer on the tip of the roll pin helps with starting it. Use a rotary tool with flapper wheel on the end for that. I spent about 5 mins prep, and then pushed it in.

[Coco66]

Originally Posted by andersn

Im gonna start using isopropanol now instead of acetone, its not optimal for indoor use, so Ive been rinsing parts outside.. thanks for tips

As far as I know they're not much different to each other so don't breath too much. Otherwise you'll also end up with a trailing edge controlled tail!

Jokes apart, Scott, amazing doc work! Thanks!

[OICU812]

The roll pin tr hub is simply a pain in ass period. IMO a metal hub, threaded all way through where the hole is existing on the plastric one, threaded to 3mm, then two 3mmx4mm setscrews each side done, zero hassle that way. The roll pin is good for handguns, not really a friendly idea for helis, that is one part in the build so far where I said "WTF" was whoever designed this thinking... seriously

Anyhow I always buy and try for how it flies, all else has not went to bad, cracked links like everyone else but \i had some spare links on hand from another project so that didn't hold up much..

[Bob O]

Scott,

The pins in the tail pitch arms aren't roll pins per se. They will be a lot easier to work with. The roll pin in my kit was a super tight fit to the hole. Pliers wouldn't budge it, and besides I didn't want to mess up the pulley. And I don't have a vice. So I rigged up something and had to hit it with a full sized hammer pretty hard, nearly as hard a freakin' nail. After it was flush with the pulley I lined up a drift punch and had my father in-law whack it to get it evenly recessed with the other side. It was the first time in all my heli builds where I needed help from another person.

If I recall, the 6HV used a roll pin to hold the tail pulley. It was nowhere near the hassle as this one. In either case, it's done and I can proceed with the build.

[Jeff_Barrett]

Originally Posted by Bob O

If I recall, the 6HV used a roll pin to hold the tail pulley.

Yup, the Atom 500 as well ...

[Rob43]

You might want something like one of these:

LINK

Cannot imagine not having a vice. In my case, I have a bench vise which is bolted to a work bench. However, this has a much better design with swivel. Would be ideal for many such details.

I've also found my 1/2 ton arbor press indespensible for pushing bearings in/out, removing shafts, etc. Like this: LINK You get superior control with a press. No impact damage, or missing the punch with a hammer, etc. Less frustration involved.

[Stevemech]

Next pulley I buy I'm going to drill the shaft hole out a tiny amount, my digital caliper says that there the same size so no wonder there hard to install.Hammers and heli's really shouldn't be nessessary!When will the pulleys be instock?
Steve

[GRR45]

Hopefully soon. I split my pulley when the punch went in a bit further than required. (Guess I should have used a smaller hammer)

[sarpilot]

Originally Posted by Rob43

You might want something like one of these:

LINK

Cannot imagine not having a vice. In my case, I have a bench vise which is bolted to a work bench. However, this has a much better design with swivel. Would be ideal for many such details.

I've also found my 1/2 ton arbor press indespensible for pushing bearings in/out, removing shafts, etc. Like this: LINK You get superior control with a press. No impact damage, or missing the punch with a hammer, etc. Less frustration involved.

Thx for that Rob got a harbor freight couple miles from here I think I shall procure one of those…


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