Tutorial - CopterX head on Belt CP

[conex]

All i needed is this main shaft:
http://www.rc711.com/shop/product_in...products_id=90

i buy it before my copterX head, so i dunno if original (black) one will fit because i dont have that one that come with my belt cp, just another i replaced after a crash.

Basically its all i used different, and i have a DTS mod, but its all...for tail you should use another front puley because belt dont fit it right! im just using main rotor i cant talk too much about tail.

And following Heli Yea! its better to you buy some copterX or trex paddles too, im using the original from belt but him said it inst too good to use.

[alan-31]

Conex, I see you've also done a DTS mod, right? Looks like it.

Ok I'm gonna clarify something about the shafts. The shaft Conex used will fit because the hole is nearer to the end than in a regular stock shaft. See the difference:

http://www.rc711.com/shop/product_in...products_id=90 (hole on left side is nearer)

http://www.rchelicoptershop.com/cata...elt-p-259.html (regular stock shaft - holes are further; this will clash with the paddle rod if a CopterX head is used, so this shaft cannot be used)

For some reason, the shafts although have the same model number (EK1-0538), they are not identical as far as the holes are concerned.

You have to use the shaft that came with the CopterX head or use one like Conex's where the hole is nearer to the ends.

MTBoy, yea - you should not be needing anything else, if you have the CopterX head (the shaft that comes with it will work, just use it upside down when you do the install). For the tail, that also jsut plugged in. It works for me, but some people have said the stock tail belt has different grooves than the gears on the new CopterX tail. I guess I'll find out if my belt breaks, but for now its working fine as far as I know.
So yea, just get the copterX head and tail.

With the head though, you will need to relocate the anti-rotation device on the front (trial and error, put it as far near the ends as you can put) which will require two extra plastic screws. Lets see.... cant think of anything else.

[MTboy]

Sweet, so the shaft that comes with the head will work.. So all I need is the paddles..

[alan-31]

Yup, that shaft will work. Its what I'm using too.
The paddles I'm using are the belt CP ones and they worked ok although, I'm a total noob so I dont know if they're ideal. I was able to control it just fine in a little test hover last night.

I just remembered the blades! The belt CP stock blades are thick and will not fit in the CopterX head. I had to use other blades say, for a T-rex. I dont remember which ones I got but I believe they were for a T-rex. Maybe Conex can tell which blades to order. So that means:
- CopterX head (will come with shaft) and tail
- Blades
- Thread lock (blue type, you will need it for all the screws): Ebay, $5: http://cgi.ebay.com/PAAPT42-Pacer-Za...08111003r11894
Thats should be it. Sorry my head is clouded and I cant think much clearly, but this should be it. The stock tail blades will fit in the new tail so thats ok too.

[conex]

Buy t-rex 325mm they are what im using and its flying fine.

[MTboy]

So glad for the list, thanks. Just makes it alittle easier then having to read threw all the posts and figuring it out.
One more question...lol
My front servo was broke in the crash so what would you guys say to get to replace???

[conex]

MTboy

If your front servo was broke, so you should use the same on 3 ciclic, you can put tail servo on the same place, people always talk about SG90´s and i saw a lot of them using this servo, but i never use this i stick with esky digital servo.

[Ian 777]

Originally Posted by conex

Hello lan 777.

1-I dunno, this shaft i use dont fit right if i dust put collar on the flat, so i put it down.

2-Yes i use a hand sandpaper, i dunno how to explain, my natural language inst english, its a sandpaper to nails that girls use, it need some concentration to let it straight.

Thanks Conex

1- Thats fine if the swash bearing cant foul the flat on full negative.

2- Good idea to use nail boads, just need to make sure you finish with a really fine
one and slide it vertically in the slot so the sides are smooth enough.

Your English is excellent

Ian

[alan-31]

I got all SG90's too, about $20 for 4. I got them recommended from everyone on this forum as well. The servo on the front comes out a bit and might be touching the canopy but I think it should be ok.

[MTboy]

Seen the SG90 for $10 for all four on ebay but now not sure what I will be doing. Just got laid off from my job after 5 years.. So now may have to wait to see what happens, but glad the gov. is taking care of the rich.

[conex]

Hi guys i just make a video of me flying my belt cp with copterX main rotor.

[MTboy]

Nice vid man, Thanks for sharring and I'm looking forward to adding this head to my cp. Looks like it make for a great bird.

[alan-31]

Nice!

[sutty]

Good stuff.

[Ian 777]

sorry just struggling with trying to up load some pics

[Heli Yea!]

Well I'm still confused a little but I figured out that's the new V2 shaft and your paddles look OK to me(no slope) so, if it works roll with it! Nice flying!

[Ian 777]

Hi guys

I just did a front AR pin guide mod. on my heli so i could use the original CopterX swash.

If you just drill two holes in the plastic in front of the head you cant get the guide in it's best position and the plastic is thin so there is a danger of it splitting in a crash.




I used a couple of old plastic tail blades to make the mounts, they have the 2 mm hole
ready drilled and just require trimming to shape



The guide needs trimming to make it fit between the mounts and filing out as conex describes, though I used a diamond file rather than a nail file board to do this.
I have fixed the mounts to the guide using 2 countersunk screws.



The guide can be positioned slightly lower and further forwards than if you just drill the frame so it clears the link and gives you greater movement on the swash.



I drilled the frame with a 2mm drill and the mount with a 1.5 mm drill and used short self tappers to attach the guide assembly to the frame.

It is the wide camera angle that makes it appear to be set at an angle the guide is vertical.

This mount is very strong, easy to do and I think safer than just drilling the frame.

I left the old guide behind the head so I can use any swash I want to and because it is a brace giving more strength to the frame.

Ian

[mnwizard]

Nice Ian, I like it!

[Heli Yea!]

Very nice mod Ian looks fairly easy to do as well!

[testpilot58d]

Well done Ian!