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nano CP X Brushless Mods Blade nano CP X Brushless Mods Information and Help


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Old 05-09-2014, 05:38 AM   #381 (permalink)
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Default Brushless Nano Cpx. Post your setup and discussion thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by daveapplemotors View Post
video

Idk I'll look through my gopro but i dont think i recorded that one......I'll try to do it again and get it on tape


Sent from my Goblin 125 using SAB
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Old 05-11-2014, 11:21 AM   #382 (permalink)
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Lightbulb You should really change the gauge wires!!

Hi,
there has been a lot of talk about this before, but I did not read of anyone who tried it on the Factory BL Nano upgrade:
Change the gauge wires for something thicker and solder them directly to the board(s)!
see similar topic here:
https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=500367
https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=499735


If I remember correctly, Dylan tried to swap some cables, but didn't see improvement, but what I did DOES GIVE MORE POWER !

I must admit I have no proof, but I really was not soo much happier with the Factory BL update, compared to the original motor (and that had been in the air for ~12 month ), and after doing the things described here, I feel it must be approx 10-15% more power or so. Don't hit me, I didn't take comparision videos or any other measures.
btw: no flighttime compare, and I use the Mylipo 205mAh, which must be somewhere about what the 200 Oversky/Microheli performs.

Here's what I did:
- buy 24AWG PVC(?) copper wire (0.25mm²). it's weight is ~0.038g/cm
- get a small molex to exchange the standard connector to the Lipo.
- this results all in all in a wire-weight of ~1g vs 0.8g of the old (incl. BL wire/connectors)
- take off the mantle of the BL-ESC (it weighs ~1g!)
- solder everything together and glue the ESC to the board (I used 2 dips of HotGlue, but don't forget to screw the board to the Frame before you cover the screwingholes with the ESC (!!!) - I had to take the ESC off again LoL!!!
..or position the ESC better than I did, but you would have to renew the wire to the motor also, because it's too short..)

use this method to solder the new battery-wires:
http://www.hacksmods.com/2013/02/bru...-lead-upgrade/
https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=500256


some impressions: please don't blame me for the bad soldering, I was happy enough to get the wires together properly before soldering them to the ESC... if you look from the distance, it does not look soo bad

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[for the ones interested: My RTF nano weighs 36g, but that is with my heavy 5.75g Lipo and airtime skids (1.2g vs 0.65g orig) and undestroyable v911 canopy (2.4g vs 1.5g orig). Additionally, I use Lynx Swash & epoxy-hardened default tailboom (mcpx-version to come..), and some epoxy & hotglue here and there on the frame..]



Thanks to P@reez, mixfisto, Daryoon, Dylan & special thx go to Boris for his expertise and the molex connector & all the other guys for their hints related to this issue!


joseph
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Old 05-12-2014, 10:49 AM   #383 (permalink)
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Default change wires

+1

(And connectors to run the Oversky 45C batteries)
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Old 05-16-2014, 05:09 PM   #384 (permalink)
 
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Blade Nano CPX | Spin 13,500Kv (2 min 40 sec)


Spin 13,500Kv Motor
XP-3A BLHeli
Xtreme 200mAh LiPo
Everything soldered direct, removed connectors from motor
Xtreme DFC head
Microheli swashplate
Lynx canopy
homemade 7mm tail boom
Lynx 42mm tail rotor
Xtreme Carbon Fin
Xtreme Skids
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Old 05-16-2014, 05:47 PM   #385 (permalink)
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Default nano

Good job of missing the big trees. Nice flying.
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Old 05-24-2014, 06:31 PM   #386 (permalink)
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Default Yannicflight frame with mcpx skids





Getting ready to put this together when I get one more piece in the mail.

This frame wants msrx skids which are stronger for the stock battery, but I want to run MCPx batteries. I guess it will work like it is, but is there a better solution? I was thinking the best solution would be another post hole in the back of the frame to accommodate the different landing skids OR cut the top rails of the MCPx skids.

That plus an angle support on the front post and more space for the 3in1 board. Also a little stiffer design for the tail boom would be nice.

Love the extra thick canopy pins and the motor mesh is perfect.

Is this the bl future Dave? ^
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Old 05-24-2014, 06:51 PM   #387 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by JEBSi View Post




Getting ready to put this together when I get one more piece in the mail.

This frame wants msrx skids which are stronger for the stock battery, but I want to run MCPx batteries. I guess it will work like it is, but is there a better solution? I was thinking the best solution would be another post hole in the back of the frame to accommodate the different landing skids OR cut the top rails of the MCPx skids.

That plus an angle support on the front post and more space for the 3in1 board. Also a little stiffer design for the tail boom would be nice.

Love the extra thick canopy pins and the motor mesh is perfect.

Is this the bl future Dave? ^

Is it 3d printed?
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Old 05-24-2014, 07:21 PM   #388 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soccerjay View Post
Is it 3d printed?
Yes at this site:

http://www.shapeways.com/shops/F3PDrives
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Old 05-24-2014, 11:22 PM   #389 (permalink)
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Default Yannick frames

I have heavy duty Yannick frames on two dbl bl nanos. I have another HD Yannick frame and another dbl bl nano but I want to try the lighter of the two Yannick frames on my third nano.

Durability report:
A hard parking lot crash broke a canopy pin. Just the end 'titty' broke off so I probably can drill and replace with a little CF.

These frames are tough! I have crash tested very thoroughly. very.

I think these frames are easier on the main gears too. Even when I have been slow on the TH switch the gears don't seem to strip out. With the modded Blade frames I was changing gears often "like diapers at the day-care".

If you are asking me about the future of bl nanos, yes, this is very good for now. BUT I want a sub-30 gram heli with FPV, GPS navigation, 20 minute battery and a good lost heli locator/beacon.
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Old 05-30-2014, 10:48 PM   #390 (permalink)
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Default Finished my build


















I would like to thank the following aftermarket manufacturers/suppliers just for making the best parts:

Nano CPX frame with double AR guide yannicflight
KBDD MCPx Landing Gear V2 - Pink asteroid designs
Nano CP X !! WILD !! V2 brushless kit asteroid designs
swashplate microheli
dfc head & spare parts xtreme-production
dfc center hub xtreme-production
battery - nanotech 300mah 45c hobbyking
mcpx female plug 10 piece overskyrc
HP03SPE shaft 1.2mm shaft overskyrc
Bearing Replacement Set lynxheli
95mm green 3d-r main blades lynxheli
42mm green tail blades lynxheli
o-rings lynxheli 7mm tail motor holder round lynxheli
titanium & carbon mainshafts lynxheli
new stock blade nano LHS

The punch is incredible on pitch pumps with the Wild v2 and MCPx batteries. 39grams AUW and 8.5 grams is the battery so prolly could be a 31 or a 32 gram auw bird with this frame and more weight mindful parts, but you do the math and build. Lovin the nylon frame with the fat canopy pins and motor removal ease, not that I ever plan on removing it. The motor actually popped out on a little bounce so I ca'ed it with a toothpick. DFC head has no play and will hover hands free for about 15 seconds with no vibes of course and it responds quicker to direction changes due to no slop. Just got to get it over grass and try some no slop tic tocks. Lynxheli 3d-r blades are just awesome, so is the 7mm tail holder with the 42mm blades for a lock. MCPx landing gear rarely breaks especially the stock MCPx lg. Pink lg is flashy and my favorite color:p

Now I am making a vacuum molded canopy.

Enjoy the pictures. The fun never ends!
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Old 05-31-2014, 06:26 AM   #391 (permalink)
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where can you get the yannicflight frame?
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Old 05-31-2014, 10:49 AM   #392 (permalink)
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Here
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Old 05-31-2014, 10:54 AM   #393 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Helistyle View Post
where can you get the yannicflight frame?
Here: http://www.shapeways.com/shops/F3PDrives

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Old 05-31-2014, 12:50 PM   #394 (permalink)
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Or you could go this route which includes the weight of the servo mounting screws.

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Old 05-31-2014, 12:52 PM   #395 (permalink)
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Or you could go this route which includes the weight of the servo mounting screws.




When r u releasing that craig?!?!?!
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Old 05-31-2014, 12:55 PM   #396 (permalink)
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It's not my idea or product but it is already available.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nano-Pin-Fix.../321413186560?
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Old 05-31-2014, 01:02 PM   #397 (permalink)
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One of the unintended benefits of that gizmo is that it tilts the bottom of the servo out, to gain clearance for the bigger aftermarket motors, and resolves the problem of the servo links to the swash from rubbing against the servo mechanics.

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Old 05-31-2014, 01:10 PM   #398 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NCcraig View Post
It's not my idea or product but it is already available.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nano-Pin-Fix.../321413186560?
didnt know that, sweet....i haven't broken a pin yet so i won't need this for at least a little while
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Old 05-31-2014, 01:43 PM   #399 (permalink)
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Default Yannick frames

Does anyone know the weight difference between the HD and light Yannick frames?
Does anyone have a light Yannick frame. My black HD ones weigh 2.6 grams.

I have 2 of the heavy duty Yannick frames in service and after a lot of trying have managed to break one canopy mount at the very end 'titty'. It looks easy enough to drill and use a little CF to replace it because there is a lot of material there. And since the canopy stays very nicely with three pins I am putting off that repair for a little while.
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Old 05-31-2014, 04:07 PM   #400 (permalink)
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How many of you guys regularly oil your outrunner Oversky motors? Is that needed with the bearings on these? Or is this one of those things where once you start oiling them, you need to keep doing so?
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