Capi's 90 Hints and Tips Build Thread

[Schuster_Helis]

Originally Posted by Nate Quan

HFG- great job on pics and ideas.


the main gear to pinion mesh on my Vel 90 seems a good bit loose. I was thinking about lengthening the slots to allow the engine to slide closer.



any ideas?

Yes, mine was too. I only had to elongate the rear most set of the clutch block holes. The ones that tie the clutch block to the main block. They were the only ones keeping the clutch block from going back far enough. Took very little and it slid back perfectly.

[Nate Quan]

Thanks for info,

[DominicD]

Ok here is the photo of the rear TT gears. As you can see they are clearly produced differently, I just wanna know if this is the norm.

[DominicD]

Here is 2 more

[dobje]

Originally Posted by Schuster_Helis

Capi,

Did you have any trouble mounting your fan? The holes would not line up at all for me, so I had to do a little ob-longing of the holes.

Yes same issue here , what did you exactly do to correct it ?

[Deftone45075]

Same issue with the fan. I had to drill them out slightly larger and make them somewhat slotted. Once the bolts were in lose, I made sure the fan was centered as I tightened them down.

As for the picture of those gears - Mine look like that, but the problem gears for me were packaged with the front TT assembly and do not mesh well at all. The gears in the tail box were fine.

[Schuster_Helis]

Originally Posted by dobje

Yes same issue here , what did you exactly do to correct it ?

I just used and xacto knife and elongated the holes that I needed to get it to fit. I am going to get a replacement fan though. I think if it is not perfect then you might get a vibration.

I am assuming that no one is able to dial the fan because of it's shape.


Capi, No, my tail gears do not look like that. All my gears look the same. Nice and shiny...

But they are extremely notchy. I hope that they will break in on the first few flights

[dobje]

Originally Posted by Deftone45075

Same issue with the fan. I had to drill them out slightly larger and make them somewhat slotted. Once the bolts were in lose, I made sure the fan was centered as I tightened them down.

Ok I will try to get hold on a 3.2mm drill and hopefully it stay's centered. I don't have a dial indicator

[dobje]

Capi , did you cut the fuel clunk per manual (45mm) ? it seems a little short to me.

[Foxden]

The length of the line is a starting point, it comes down to what clunk you install, the stock brass, OS bubbles, or a fuel magnet, I have a bubbles in one and a Lynx fuel magnet in the 2nd machine and had to adjust both.

[devens]

Originally Posted by HFG

No I had no problem with my fan. I have had no defective parts during the build, the only one I question is the bevel gear in the rear of the boom. The finish and composition of the gear appears different in fit and finish than all the other gears on the heli. But I know this gear was changed at the last min so I hope this is just a result of a different/new part. On all the other gears the parts are a solid white and polished surface, on the rear bevel gear it appears rough on the surface and cloudy in composition.

I looked over my gears and the umbrella gear that appears different is one in the front gear bag. The rear umbrella gear is inside the tail case already and appeared to be very smooth. The front gear even has a little transparent lip around the fringe of the gear like a mold seam.

[HoffY]

HFG,

To me...t hat does not look correct. I think you'll find that is a bad casting/run. That gear is NOT operational like that. The gear faces need to be smooth. So unless the images are deciving me (not easy to tell with pics like in RL), i would not use that gear as all it will do is shop out the good one and be a flight risk.

Originally Posted by HFG

Ok here is the photo of the rear TT gears. As you can see they are clearly produced differently, I just wanna know if this is the norm.

[DominicD]

Yeah I agree, Ill get a replacement.

Yes the fuel tank length in the manual must be be a typo, made me laugh when i saw it. I think mine was around 80-85mm.

[dobje]

Ok i have to get a longer line now

The Gears are looking good in my kit, but the tail drive is a little stiff (not smooth), the tail slider is also not optimal I am stil working on that to find the issue. The front gears are not mounted yet

[Foxden]

Look at the brass insert inside the tail pitch slider and make sure there are no burrs or marks and use a file with a small piece of sandpaper or emery and a few quick passes will smooth it out, start at the hinge closest to the tail case and make sure both bearing cups sit flat against the tail case, then start working your way out until you finally get to the pitch slider and that should get you the smoothest mechanical operation. PATIENCE and you can get the slider mechanism smooth, remember there are alot of moving parts here.

[DominicD]

Ok Late last night I did the rest of the head setup (I leveled the swash and dialed out the CCPM interactions on a previous step). I only documented the collective setup, but I will go back and do the cyclic setup if you guys wanna see it.

First step is to level the flybar the best you can. The flybar carrier isn't flat on the top or bottom like on the G5/550/50 so leveling the flybar is a little tricker, but an allen key kinda works (I tried zip ties too). I tried both having an allan key in the top and the bottom, looking back now I think next time I will try having an allan key in both the top and bottom.



Get yourself a nice digital pitch gauge, a kit this nice deserves it, and it makes setup SOOOOOOOOOO much faster. The only problem with the digital pitch gauge is it is too accurate, you will drive yourself nuts trying to get the head perfect, but there is only so much adjustment on the links (don't start with the turnbuckle discussion). First put the PG (pitch gauge) on the boom block and hit the 0/Cal button. Check that your flybar is level, anything within a 0.5degree is more than good enough (in the advanced settings this will translate to only 0.25 degrees on the blades).





Next step is to mount the PG to the blades, currently I just use the magnets on the bottom of the unit but I will get around to having my buddy fab something (or ill have my arch-nemesis Rick Lohr do it). If you are using the advanced settings you will want to use the short links to adjust for 0 pitch at midstick. Anything under 0.5 degree is more than accurate enough, as the short link single turn translated into more than 0.5 degree changes on the head.



As you can see a 0.3 degree error just can't be seen with the typical pitch gauge method. Ok next check your upper and lower collective, this is your collective pitch range. In my case with the stock link lengths I got the following.





This is close enough that with a pitch gauge you won't see any different and to be honest can just be left alone as you won't feel the difference in the air. But this brings me an opportunity to discuss how to adjust Outrage heads to get an even collective range. If you are getting more negative than positive pitch adjust the long link to be longer. Basically if you have too much negative you want to push the mixing arm up and away from the negative. If you are getting too much positive you shorten the long link to move the mixing arm away from the positive. With the advanced settings every turn on the long link moved the pitch range about 0.5 degree. So in my case i needed 2 turns to get the following.





If you folks wanna see a similar write up for the cyclic pitch range adjustment just leave a comment here, if not Ill save myself the time and effort

[statton1]

i would like to see the cyclic set up

[Foxden]

Nice job Capi

[John Cook]

I was under the impression the long link was to set 0 collective and the short link was to set +/- range. At least on the 50 that is what Charlie was explaining to me.

On Tony's machine we had to adjust the short link quite a bit to get less negative pitch and equal + pitch, along with then resetting 0 pitch via the long rod.

[DominicD]

It depends on how you have the head setup, on the advanced setup turns on the long flybar have a larger effect on the blades than the short link does. All this advice needs to be reversed for the basic type setups, and you can use either for medium setups.