New Protos Build (Juicy PICS!! & Videos), Few BeastX/Setup Issues...need help

[adambowersva]

Thanks for tuning in isoglass3d! Parameter C was only one step below max and pot 1 was close too.

Mechanical was my wonder. The servos are rated for 7.4 and the esc is running at that speed. Should it not be for setup?

Pitch boost is on 2nd from highest setting. I will turn that down on retests.

On the 6 deg test I did get blue light...eventually. at first I didn't and had to move swash up and servo ball links to 3rd hole on horns to get it to register blue. Wonder if moving swash further up and balls back out will further help but I didn't want to push the rods to extreme thread levels till got some longer ones.

Servos are running at 200mhz.

Blades are well balanced (little piece of black tape in crash pics was all was needed). Tracking is/was good too.

[kb1846]

Originally Posted by dr dremel

Sorry for your crash adam, I also lost orientation one time (although on the Mini Protos), maybe adding a bit of color to the heli will help (landing gear, covering the boom)?

Consensus on the low head on non- stretched Protos is: Don´t do it!

Why I post though is the pic on post #6, it looks like the long antenna on the AR7200 is fraying, I´d suggest to relieve the antenna a bit and add a piece of shrink wrap around the cut. Also performing a range test would not be a bad idea.

Keep it safe
Dr

I am looking to get a 500 [currently a stretched Mini], thinking I would leave it stock ... Question: Can I leave the high-profile head on it without the flybar?

While I am here, also looking at ESC possibilities: CC Phoenix Edge 75A, or CC Phoenix Edge Lite 75A [same price US$102, Lite is more compact], or the CC Talon 90 [bit overboard on amps but cheaper at US$90, and would probably fit under the battery tray without having to put it on the base tray under the drive shaft]. Advice on this would be appreciated.

And Lipos -- From Australia, one option is to get Raidan 6S 2850mAh 45C from RC711 in Hong Kong, US$58 each [we can't get Lipos shipped from US any more and local supplies are unreliable].

FYI -- I will be running it with an AR7200BX, cyclics either Savox 1250MG or MKS DS9660A, yet to decide on a choice for the tail.

Advice on these matters much appreciated ... KB

[isogloss3d]

Originally Posted by adambowersva

Thanks for tuning in isoglass3d! Parameter C was only one step below max and pot 1 was close too.

Mechanical was my wonder. The servos are rated for 7.4 and the esc is running at that speed. Should it not be for setup?

Pitch boost is on 2nd from highest setting. I will turn that down on retests.

On the 6 deg test I did get blue light...eventually. at first I didn't and had to move swash up and servo ball links to 3rd hole on horns to get it to register blue. Wonder if moving swash further up and balls back out will further help but I didn't want to push the rods to extreme thread levels till got some longer ones.

Servos are running at 200mhz.

Blades are well balanced (little piece of black tape in crash pics was all was needed). Tracking is/was good too.

If your servos are rated at 7.4V then that isn't the issue and you can leave them alone. Running them at 200Hz (not mHz, which isn't possible) is fine too.

The Carbon Protos Flybarless manual indicates servo balls should be 16 mm out from the center of the servo output shafts. Mine are about 16 mm out (it's hard to measure exactly, once everything is assembled). Judging by your photos, yours look about right but you should measure just to be certain. You shouldn't have to push the rods to extreme thread levels for a proper setup. So long as you get the blue light at (or very near) 6º and exit that step without bumping your transmitter you should be good.

It's not uncommon for certain models to run at the highest or next to highest setting in parameter C (blue or blue flashing), especially depending on blades and servos.

However running Dial 1 maxed out shouldn't be required and can make things feel less connected if too high.

There are only a couple things remaining that could be creating the problem.

1. Poor Center of Gravity (CG), extremely tail heavy: If you're running stretch with 2600 mAh packs then you're most likely tail heavy even with the packs as far forward as possible. Most stretch users run 3300 mAh packs. If you're not familiar with checking CG on a FBL heli this video demonstrates it well

Checking your Center of Gravity (CG) with Nick Maxwell (0 min 50 sec)

2. Your first post states that you're running parameter E (stick deadband) Purple which is below default and so low that unintentional inputs are recognized and responded to by the FBL unit. Simply breathing heavy with your thumb on the cyclic can create enough unintended movement to register on the transmitter. Go into monitor mode and try it

You want some stick deadband in order to filter this out so default (red flashing) should be used. If you're jittery than maybe try a bit higher with solid red.

[HarryR]

Originally Posted by adambowersva

Lol the manual is gonna say low head on stretch only (got both manuals) but I've heard conflicting info and no reports of actual blade strikes. Was just wondering if anyone had experience specifically with it. Thanks!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Yes. that's what it says !!

[adambowersva]

Isogloss, thanks for the detailed help. The deadband was at flashing red (typo on my part I guess), but I raised it anyway to steady red...cause I do jitter many times lol.

After all those adjustments it had to be the CoG as you stated causing the dolphin issues. All the servo rod lengths were actually pretty much spot on.

Now that the rebuild is done and I have got about 10 flights on it I still couldn't agree more with the above statement. When I rebuilt I took her back to non-stretch (still running 14-tooth pinion though). She flies beautifully. No dolphin effect at all and Dial 1 is maybe 2 ticks positive now.

Think I still need to get the tail dialed in though. Flies good, but could probably be better. I'm gonna get some video with my new Action Cam and get a post up on that.

HarryR and others....also, thank you for your help. I don't like leaving threads questionably unsolved or unthanked lol so I wanted to make sure I posted up.

[isogloss3d]

Thanks for keeping us updated, it's appreciated.

Good to see you have eliminated the dolphin effect.

I use this Helifreak write-up as a tunning guide and it works great. It may help with your tail tunning. https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=279967

Good luck and BTW, nice job on the photos and videos.

[HarryR]

Originally Posted by adambowersva

Isogloss, thanks for the detailed help. The deadband was at flashing red (typo on my part I guess), but I raised it anyway to steady red...cause I do jitter many times lol.

After all those adjustments it had to be the CoG as you stated causing the dolphin issues. All the servo rod lengths were actually pretty much spot on.

Now that the rebuild is done and I have got about 10 flights on it I still couldn't agree more with the above statement. When I rebuilt I took her back to non-stretch (still running 14-tooth pinion though). She flies beautifully. No dolphin effect at all and Dial 1 is maybe 2 ticks positive now.

Think I still need to get the tail dialed in though. Flies good, but could probably be better. I'm gonna get some video with my new Action Cam and get a post up on that.

HarryR and others....also, thank you for your help. I don't like leaving threads questionably unsolved or unthanked lol so I wanted to make sure I posted up.

Great ... it worked !!
One more thing .... I hope you don't mind.. Do run 30-35 or even 40 percent EXPO and see if you like that. I found to my surprise that it REALLY makes controlling the heli even more of a pleasure rather than a chore to keep that nose and the tail where you want it to be.

[adambowersva]

No I don't mind suggestions AT ALL Harry! I will certainly give that a shot on my next flight. I run 85/20 and then occasionally step to 100/25 and like that better. I guess its certainly the lighter weight of this bird that makes that more desirable so 35/40 maybe even better...shall see soon =).

Be on the lookout for my next thread! Two Vids...one for help...one for fun. Well...they were both fun lol, but I know this bird can be dialed in even better =).

[isogloss3d]

Looking forward to your post/vids

I plan on posting more vids too when my new camera arrives Friday.

What type of camera do you use?

I'm trying out the Vivitar 787HD action cam (GoPro not in budget). A buddy at my flying field has one and likes it a lot and the video quality was pretty good for a budget camera. Online reviews are mostly "hit" with a handful of "misses". Time will tell if it's a good purchase.

[adambowersva]

Well they went up yesterday! In main protos forum. Starts title as "three fun videos".

The camera is the SJ4000 (as I also don't want to spend $400 on camera). Rather have money towards heli .

The pictures look better than I expected considering the hit/miss reviews of this camera also. I did video from head cam AND mounted on protos and it did great with both