Belt 6HV FBL conversion

[jperkosk]

Already got it mounted, and I found this very small Spektrum VR5203 regulator which I needed anyway for the tail servo. If I'm lucky I'll finish the electronics installation this afternoon, for the time being looks like a perfect flying weather so off to the office to grab one of he Belts 600N and off to the club

[ragge1]

Jerry you can see my wiring maybe can get some idea for you , the HW Bec that came with the kit I had it under the battery tray but hen I got the CC pro Bec and that on the side , satelite on the anti-rotation bracket - pics

[redbird300]

Jerry, my wiring is in this post, this might help you, I even managed to put my CC BEC PRO inside the frame:

https://www.helifreak.com/showpost.p...&postcount=165

[DominicD]

Ill snap a photo of my wiring for ya when i get back home

[jperkosk]

Thanks guys for the ideas, will post my pics later when I'm done. Haven't seen any battery flight packs, are you all powering the electronics from BECs?

[jperkosk]

Finished mounting everything this afternoon !!!

Left side of the heli:



Flight pack velcro mounted and strapped, it powers Skookum power bus:



Under the battery tray TM10000 telemetry unit and VR5203 7.4V to 5.2V voltage regulator, it powers tail servo and TM1000. SK720 and cyclic servos are powered directly from 7.4V flight pack. You can see the edge of the temperature sensor, it's fixed by high temp silicone into the gap between top side of the motor and motor mount:



SK720:



Rear view with both satellites visible:



Right side of the heli:



SK720 wiring to the Skookum power bus:



Sk720 power bus. The swash servos plug into 7.4V side, tail servo and ESC signal come out of 5.2V side. Tried to find information whether HW 70A-HV minded 7.4V on the throttle signal , but it was inconclusive. Programming card manual says maximum 6V, so to play it safe I send the throttle signal to ESC from 5.2V side:



Ragge, I mounted the ESC almost exactly like you did. RPM sensor under the motor, sensor's wires visible where bullet connectors connect to the motor:

[jperkosk]

So after the final mounting I did all of the setup wizards and of course couldn't wait to maiden, so I ran to the club with 6HV to meet with a heli flying friend late afternoon.
The wind was blowing today 30-40kph with even stronger gusts, but I couldn't wait, could I?

I did two battery packs, timer set to 6 min, each pack gave me 3 couple of minutes hovers, after each landing and some tweaking of tail and headspeed. Started at very low RPM, about 1600 RPM headspeed, but it was too low for the weather conditions, the heli felt like it was having a bit of a problem coping with the wind. Bumped the headspeed up to about 1750, much better . Last test hover of the day:

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i0UGeGRu6-c[/ame]

Few initial observations:

• The damn thing is quicker that my TR450SE, feels like a sports car vs family car next to TR600Ns.
• That said, it's also much lighter (easily 30% or even better), so even if FBL controller gives it a good stability in the wind it gets blown around in space noticeably more. Stability in the gust of wind is good, meaning the heli will not tilt or rotate, but it will get moved in space quite a bit more than TR600N.
• 2 2600mAh batteries on the tray is not enough weight, the heli is tail-heavy !!! I can move Hyperions forward enough to have CoG spot on, but not so with V-Plus packs, they're too long .
• At 1750 RPM headspeed after 6 min of test hovers I have only put back into the batteries about 1000 mAh !!! That means I can double the flight time , but I'll set the timer for 9 min for now, need some more flights to determine that reliably.
• What's wrong with the skids ??? At the end of the video clip it started gusting >50kph, and the timer was up so I had to land it a bit harder. If you listen you'll hear an audible crack at the moment of landing, the front skid has cracked in the middle . The landing wasn't really THAT hard, was it?

Took the skids out and glued it back with CA, will apply some thread + CA reinforcement tomorrow. Ordered spare skids 2 months ago from 711rc (Gerd snapped them during disassembly, so they're glued anyway), but they never shipped, out of stock !!!

[DominicD]

Take a look at this.

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=371944

[Tomstoy2]

Looks really good, Jerry! Congradulations.

Bump the head speed up even higher, it will love it!

[jperkosk]

Originally Posted by DominicD

Take a look at this.

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=371944

So you zip-tied the Align rear skid and kept the original front one? Interesting, I think I got a spare set of 600 Align skids Regardless, it feels like a brittle plastic, did they have a bad production run a couple of years ago? The skids should be more flexible...

[ragge1]

congradulations , looking good
have you grounded your tail boom
this is a link I got from Raf , read post # 228 by Hati , link , most guys are doing like this , I grounded my to the negative side of the ESC

[DominicD]

This is all you need

[jperkosk]

Makes sense, I got a shock touching the boom box area after the second flight, didn't realize where it was coming from

Could you post a picture of how you connected the grounding wire into the boom? Gerd had the anti-spark wire connected to one of the screws on the frame, but I have returned it to the original role; and besides it won't really ground the boom to the battery pack negative, just the frame, and I think both of them should be grounded.

Edit: didn't see your post, Dominic. So you just drill and tap into the boom... BTW I agree with the guys who say it should also be connected to the negative side of the main battery pack, I'll use anti-spark wire for that.

[DominicD]

Shouldn't need to connect the battery to anything. I was actually having serious static issues on mine when the weather turned cold. I was having my esc cutting in and out several times a flight, did this little mod and it fixed it.

[jperkosk]

There is a post by Hati on Mikado forum claiming that it's better to discharge the static electricity to the biggest capacitor available, which is a battery pack, and I intuitively agreed with his reasoning...

Thinking about it it's not true, you are best off discharging static electricity back to the points of origin, basically shorting out the Van de Graaff generator. So the best thing would be to electrically connect all 4 belt pulleys together (2 timing pulleys and 2 guide pulleys). Main belt pulley is plastic, so no problem there. That leaves 2 guide pulleys and the tail pulley; connecting them together kills the generation of static electricity.

Seems like your grounding mod is pretty much spot on, Dominic

Ragge, referencing the negative of the battery pack (or ESC, it's the same thing) won't help anything, I don't think. It won't hurt anything either, unless your positive wire wears through the insulation and touches the frame somewhere... I think I'd rather have the battery voltage floating and not referenced to the frame.

[ragge1]

this is the thread I had a while back Link , at the time I didn't want to make a hole on the boom so had a cable all the way from the tail to the ESC , its brown and nobody even notice it , so a black cable would not be visible at all

[Tomstoy2]

What about a static wick?

[jperkosk]

You would need one hanging from the heli long enough to touch the ground, Tom

[Tomstoy2]

I ask because I have seen these about an inch long hanging on the bottom of the boom on some vids. Have no idea if they actually work.

The only heli I have that ever had a static issue was my 450, but after a belt change it went away never to return.

[jperkosk]

Mr. Tesla was working on sending high energy and voltages wirelessly over the air, I wonder if we could mount one of his contraptions on my 6HV and sent the excess electrons down to ground...

Seriously, I think Dominic's fix is the most money for the effort