Align ESC mod page

[Finless]

The constant beep means the ESC is not seeing the proper signal from the RX. Does the RX work at all? can you plug a RX batter in it and test that the servos move etc?

Bob

[jda3]

Yes the servos move ok when you move the sticks on transmitter. I pluged the esc in with the black wire in the negetive spot on the receiver. This is a Futaba set up.
Joe

[Finless]

Put a servo in the throttle channel and make sure you can move it...
If thsat tests OK then you either have a broken wire from the RX to the ESC (the white wire) or you have a bad ESC. That constant beep is what the ESC calls "model locator" and it will do that if
1) The RX is not seeing a signal from the TX
2) The ESC is not getting it's control signal from the RX.

Bob

[jda3]

Than you Bob I will go and check what ytou suggested and let you know what happen.
Joe

[jda3]

One other question do you know where to send the esc of a Align esc to be repaired?
Joe

[Finless]

Call Align RC USA.
Web site is http://www.alignrcusa.com

Bob

[Gary JP4]

This is a great mod. There was a very good discussion on RR under Bob's mod thead and since it was lost, and this is kind of a recreation, hear is a link (froogle search) on arctic silver's "arctic alumina" that was in the thread. This is the way I found it.

http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=...oogle&ct=title

I did the mod a while back. I used the Arctic Silver "Arctic Alumina". The heat sink and everything else on the ESC runs evenly warm now. The heat sink was barely above ambient temperature before with the heat shrink under it.

A did a mod to put a heat sink on the sim's of an FP 4 in 1 before and made my own heat sink adhesive. A thread to a computer link (stuff for hopped up video accelerators) was also on the RR’s lost stuff explaining how to make it and a test report. Edit: Here is the link: http://www.overclockers.com/tips683/. The test was devised to check thermal transfer and showed that the homemade stuff worked just about as good as Artic Alumina. It was one part 5-minute epoxy to 1 part thermal paste by weight I think. I used a non-silicone paste for that. Heat transfer was good and it held well. But, I waited for the Arctic Silver Epoxy for the T-Rex ESC.

[WillJames]

I have been using the arctic silver for years on CPU's and it is very good. Interesting idea to mix it with epoxy!!

[cudaboy_71]

regular epoxy is an insulator...seems kinda like defeating the purpose. i'd just go for the arctic silver epoxy made for the job. it's only $8.

[Finless]

Yep Cuda.... Got to agree with this one!


But.... BlakeMcBrayer will ship you for CHEAP the stuff I used which is even better stuff IMHO.....

BVob

[Skiddz]

Originally Posted by WillJames

I have been using the arctic silver for years on CPU's and it is very good. Interesting idea to mix it with epoxy!!

Dear gawd don't do that!! Artic Silver makes a 2 part thermal epoxy. It can be had at Fry's Electronics or any other computer store for about $8. I've used it to glue heatsinks to all kinds of oddball projects I've run up over the years. It works very well.

[BlakeMcBrayer]

The Artic Silver is good stuff, but it doesn't have as high of a thermal transfer rate as what Finless uses and I ship in my kit. But to each is own, use what you like, as long as it will transfer heat and not insulate it.

My kit is only $7.50 for the epoxy and INCLUDES the needed heat shrink along with shipping.

[GimbalFan]

I did the mod using Blake's kit. After 9 minutes of FFF and mild 3D the heatsink is barely warm to the touch. I'd say his kit is a great bargain.

[cudaboy_71]

actually if you were getting good thermal transfer you'd want the sink to be getting hot...meaning its taking heat away from the mosfets, right?

just picking nits i suppose...but if you're going to judge results, judge the right ones.

...anyway i'm sure anything you do at all is better than what align provides

[GimbalFan]

Originally Posted by cudaboy_71

if you were getting good thermal transfer you'd want the sink to be getting hot

With the thermal connection that you get with the mod the mosfets couldn't possibly be getting hot without the heatsink also getting hot. I believe the lack of heat reveals that the mod is permitting the heatsink to do exactly what it's supposed to do, rather than being just a cosmetic accessory that actually allows temps to go up.

There's lots of Rex SE's where I fly, most without the mod. The heatsinks on those also don't get very warm (mostly because they're insulated from the mosfets) but the backsides of the ESCs sure do. Some even show a slight bubbling of the shrinkwrap at the sides.

[BlakeMcBrayer]

For those whom might be intrested, while picking up more heat shrink stocks today, I added yellow as a color I'll be keeping on hand for the kits.

:twisted:

[Finless]

Good man Blake! Thanks for supporting people wanting to do the mod with CHEAP materials......

Bob

[Wingless]

Originally Posted by BlakeMcBrayer

The Artic Silver is good stuff, but it doesn't have as high of a thermal transfer rate as what Finless uses and I ship in my kit. But to each is own, use what you like, as long as it will transfer heat and not insulate it.

My kit is only $7.50 for the epoxy and INCLUDES the needed heat shrink along with shipping.

Blake,

What is the size of the shrink wrap when unshrink? Just curious because i got spare heat shrink from my work (about 1-1/2 inch when flat).

[Wingless]

Originally Posted by BlakeMcBrayer

The Artic Silver is good stuff, but it doesn't have as high of a thermal transfer rate as what Finless uses and I ship in my kit. But to each is own, use what you like, as long as it will transfer heat and not insulate it.

My kit is only $7.50 for the epoxy and INCLUDES the needed heat shrink along with shipping.

Blake,

What is the size of the shrink wrap when unshrink? Just curious because i got spare heat shrink from my work (about 1-1/2 inch when flat).

[BlakeMcBrayer]

Wingless,

Yes it's 1.5" when flat. It sounds like what you have at work is PERFECT for the job!