Turnigy 3d-h v2

[sharicasmi]

I got 2 units a week ago. I set up one on a 250 with a YEP on gov. The cyclic gain (pot 1) had to be dialed up (to drop the gain), but I'm getting nasty cyclic oscillations for the first 30 seconds. Pot 1has to be upped to the point where it's floaty and it wants to drift to the right. I'm having difficulty getting the twitch and drift out of the tail.

The second unit ended up on a 450, which flies okay, however it doesn't feel very locked in because I had to drop the cyclic gain due to cyclic oscillations. It's tail feels alright. I've noticed with both units that any sort of high speed piro eventually results with cyclic oscillations.

My blade 450 with 3d-h v1 doesn't have this problem at all. The TGY-380 had similar problems on my 250 regarding cyclic oscillation. When I had my 300x working with the 3d-h v1 it flew just like it was stock.
These Helis have ds76 servos with the linkage screwed into the farthest hole from center. Am I not giving these servos enough precision by having the ball links so far out?

[Nihilistic]

What's the distance between the servo axis center (in mm) to the ball links on your servo arms?

The closer you install them to the servo axis, the farther the servo has to rotate to provide maximum and minimum pitch (usually 12 degrees for collective pitch). That gives you greater resolution.

The farther out you install the ball links, the less degrees of rotation is needed to make the linkage travel to your maximum and minimum pitch, so you have less resolution. That makes your helicopter handle twitchy and possibly cause cyclic wobble with the stock gain settings. Though, there are a lot of other possible causes for the symptoms you're experiencing, like an improperly leveled swash, too low head speed, blades not tracking properly, imbalanced blades, etc.

Make sure you don't get any binding between the linkages and the servo case if you go all the way to the inner hole on the servo arms though. Usually about 10.5 mm is good for a 250 or 450, but it depends on the servos and the arms used.

Mine are around 10.5 mm on my 450 equipped with a Tarot ZYX-S and KST DS215MG servos. The ZYX-S manual actually recommends 12.5 mm - 13 mm, but Dr. M's stickied tweak guide recommends having a collective pitch travel value of between 60 and 80 (positive or negative depending on what you need to get the swash moving the correct way). So, you may need to go shorter than 12.5 mm to get a better range of travel on your servos.

[sharicasmi]

I was at 13mm from center on the 450, then I tried it at 11mm from center. Still getting cyclic shakes during high speed piros. Cyclic deceleration feels a little high, it shakes on hard cyclic stops. It's very drifty and doesn't feel very locked in compared to my v1 3d-h.
I may try it at 9mm from center, but I think that's limiting my swash plate travel abit isn't it?

[Nihilistic]

Unless those servos have a limited range of motion, going to 9mm shouldn't prevent you from achieving 12 degrees max. and min. collective pitch, and usually 10 degrees elevator and aileron pitch.

I've never used that particular gyro, so I'm not familiar with how it's set up. You went through the set up again after moving the ball links in before, I assume?

[Nihilistic]

I just read through the comments under the listing for that gyro on the HobbyKing website, and one guy posted to use the BeastX manual, rather than the one they provide, because of some errors in the Turnigy manual. Are you using the BeastX manual?

Also, V2 has pirouette optimization. Did you set that up correctly?

[sharicasmi]

Originally Posted by Nihilistic

I just read through the comments under the listing for that gyro on the HobbyKing website, and one guy posted to use the BeastX manual, rather than the one they provide, because of some errors in the Turnigy manual. Are you using the BeastX manual?

Also, V2 has pirouette optimization. Did you set that up correctly?


Unless those servos have a limited range of motion, going to 9mm shouldn't prevent you from achieving 12 degrees max. and min. collective pitch, and usually 10 degrees elevator and aileron pitch.

I've never used that particular gyro, so I'm not familiar with how it's set up. You went through the set up again after moving the ball links in before, I assume?

Indeed the instruction manual is wrong because it's just a re-print of the v1 manual with a different cover. It's actually an ideal manual for a MB V1 gyro, despite having some obvious mis-prints.
I used the TGZ380 overview as a guide for the parameters at first.
On the back of the 'quick start guide' is a table of the actual parameters for the v2 gyro which actually turns out to be a MB v3 clone! It lists parameters E through H like a v3!

I moved the 250's ball links down to 11mm from center, and it feels a lot better on the cyclic. No cyclic shakes at all, even if I hard piro. The funny thing is, I forgot to re-set 6 degrees cyclic pitch. Now I just have to figure out why the tail is acting strange for the first half of the flight. Every 2-4 seconds it quickly drifts 10-15 degrees in a random direction.

The 450 flew really well in 20 knots wind at 2900 head speed. On the second battery pack I had some cyclic wobble on fast piros and heavy crosswind hard stops.

[sharicasmi]

Pirouette optimization was set up correctly, yes. It wasn't set up correctly at first on the 450, so it would try to roll you over on your side if you piro'd too fast lol. Good thing I was kind of ready for it.

[Nihilistic]

I've also read in forums that the functions of pots 1 and 3 are swapped on the TGZ380, but otherwise it's a V3 BeastX clone all the way.

[sharicasmi]

Yeah, it's definitely not a TGZ380 but they are both MB v3 clones definitely. This gyro seems to be the old v1 3d-h units flashed with the cracked MB v3 code. The tgz 380 was similar in performance on my 250, but a tail grip flew off and it dinged the gyro on the trampoline. It now has a permanent left drift.
The 3d h v2 pots are in the right order, they're just backwards, so you turn down the dials to turn up the gains.

[sharicasmi]

One of the 250's tail case bearings exploded during a flight. I replaced the tail case bearings, and re-assembled the tail. This tail still wanders a bit, and I'm sill trying to tune it. If I could find a setting for this tail that doesn't wander that would be great.

[sharicasmi]

I found that the belt on the 250 was an old hk250 belt with a crack in the rubber. I replaced it and now it's working exactly as it should. I noticed the tail servo doesn't always center properly on initialization, so I quickly check the tail rotor limits and if necessary, reset them at menu point E. I think it's the servo, and not the FBL unit.
The 450 flies great. It's just lower head speed than what I'm used to. It has the Align governor ESC, a separate BEC 6v5a hobbywing. Some batteries fly like the cyclic gain is too high. Going to try redoing 6 degrees as 5.9 and see if that helps.

[HarryR]

I purchased one of these Turnigy V3 units. Which Spektrum receiver would you recommend for a Protos 500 installation? I have a Spektrum DSMX Satellite but I am thinking that for a size 500 heli you want to have a full size receiver in addition to one Satellite. So you know I am running AR7200BX on other Protos 500's I have . Input ?? Comments?? Thanks!


UPDATE ; I just purchased an AR6210 with SAT. Should be good!

[Diggiz]

Hey Harry, on my 500 i use a 6ch Orange Rx and a orange dsm2 Sat.
Works well

[HarryR]

Originally Posted by Diggiz

Hey Harry, on my 500 i use a 6ch Orange Rx and a orange dsm2 Sat.
Works well

I started to build up this Blade 450X , all OEM stuff with the 3D-H V2. Getting stuck, unit does not complete initialization, LED just sits and runs around its dial. Seems the TX has no connection but the Sat shows solid light and the 3D unit has lit too. Servos are active but are not controlled by TX so it seems ( no movement when moving any of the TX controls. Any idea what I might be missing in the set up of this 3D-H unit?? Started a separate thread. Cheers HarryR