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Finless Bob's Helifreak Tech Room Finless Bob's Helifreak Tech Room - Tips and how-To Videos


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Old 11-16-2009, 07:54 AM   #901 (permalink)
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Hay guys got a question...I have a ESP that I'm in the process of building, it's a new kit (sept 09)...

The flybar cage to seesaw fit has about 1-2mm of play side to side..There were no shims in the kit and no mention of shims in the manual...

Is this normal? All my 450's and b400 had a tight fit here, with no play...Seems like this would cause a vibration, or at least beat up the bearings in the seesaw....
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Old 11-16-2009, 02:03 PM   #902 (permalink)
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I just answered this question in another post! lol Do a search on my last post. I can't remember where I saw it last! lol Sorry.
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Old 11-16-2009, 05:49 PM   #903 (permalink)
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Finless, Im gonna be starting my 500 build in a couple of weeks.but I dont have a receiver pack to power the servos for setup.can I use a 7.4 volt 800 mah I have laying around from my coaxial days? and if so how? solder it to a servo type lead?I thought I had everything covered for my first build.Im watching the 500 vids for the second time and that little fact just hit me.can u just run a batt. right to the rx without a switch?Im so bummed, my wife has me on frickin budget
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Old 11-16-2009, 06:09 PM   #904 (permalink)
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No, unless you have a special kind of receiver, DO NOT plug in a two-cell lipo directly into it. It can't handle that. You can build a receiver pack from 4 AAs (max), or you can run the receiver from the ESC with the motor unplugged.
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Old 11-16-2009, 09:02 PM   #905 (permalink)
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thanks, I was worried about frying my rx.so without programming the esc, I can plug in my two fight packs to the esc, then plug esc into rx, that will power servos for setup?Im gonna run two 3s packs, so would it only take one pack?sorry this is like last minute stuff I didnt think about.
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Old 11-17-2009, 10:52 AM   #906 (permalink)
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Yeah I regularly use a 3S pack for setup on my 500 because the receiver is hard to reach - it will help reduce load on the BEC since it doesn't have to do such a huge voltage drop. Just keep in mind that the motor will still run - slow, but it will run hot enough to be dangerous. Also, whenever doing setup, make sure the ESC isn't heating up.
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Old 11-17-2009, 02:22 PM   #907 (permalink)
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Im thinking of when just the servos are in the frame for getting them going the right direction and arms at 90.Im still gonna experiment with the unused ar100 that horizon gave me for free when I had to get my dx6i recalled.Im gonna use an ar200 in the 500 for a little more insurance.Also thanks for the feedback!
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Old 11-18-2009, 08:49 AM   #908 (permalink)
 

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Hey all,

First of all great vids Bob!

Just started my 500 ESP Build. I'm a complete newbie at this so bear with me.

I'm on page 6 of the manual and making up the linkage rod (C) that attaches to the swash plate. Now the manual says use the 34mm rod with 24mm spacing between the ball links. Bob's vid says 21mm between the ball links. I have measured the manual as it is printed in 1:1 ratio, the measurement is 21mm not 24mm as printed. and the linkage rod is 31mm and not 34 as printed. What measurements should I use? I assume I will be using the 34mm linkage rod as they came in a pair, the kit came with 3 X 31mm linkage rods and 2 X 34mm linkage rods and a few smaller ones.

I would be grateful for anyones help!
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Old 11-18-2009, 10:14 AM   #909 (permalink)
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The rods from the servos to the swash will ultimatly vary based on servos used! I used the Hitech 5245s and what I came out to for link length is what it was. If you have the ESP kit with Align servos then you might want to see my Trex500 Nitro conversion build videos as in that I used the Align servos and 19mm ball spacing (instead of the 16mm in the pre ESP kits).

In the end the links from servo to swash will need to be set so you can get full pitch range in the head and have all the other arms 90 at center stick.

Bob

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Old 11-18-2009, 06:08 PM   #910 (permalink)
 

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Hi Bob,

Thanks for the quick reply. I'm not actually up to the servo links yet. I'm referring to the Swash plate links. In particular Linkage Rod (C) on page 6 of the manual.

Thanks Bob.
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Old 11-18-2009, 07:18 PM   #911 (permalink)
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This is why I prefer the top-down setup method. Adjust the links on the head and swash so that the mixing and washout arms are level and matched up at zero pitch, then simply make the links to the servos however long they need to be. This method works with any servos you want to use.
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Old 11-20-2009, 03:19 PM   #912 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboTech View Post
Hay guys got a question...I have a ESP that I'm in the process of building, it's a new kit (sept 09)...

The flybar cage to seesaw fit has about 1-2mm of play side to side..There were no shims in the kit and no mention of shims in the manual...

Is this normal? All my 450's and b400 had a tight fit here, with no play...Seems like this would cause a vibration, or at least beat up the bearings in the seesaw....
Hay TurboTech, The little bit of play that's inbetween the bird cage and the seesaw is NORMAL! I didn't like it eaither! So you could do two things live with it like some guys do or do what I did, I used a couple of the bearing shimm washers from my trex 450 and used one on either side between the seesaw bearing and the bird cage. You might have to work the washer on a peice of fine sand paper with your finger wet on a peice of glass to get them to fit just right! Take your time and sand each one even! Make sure they fit just right, and not too tight! or else you will bow the birdcage arms! You wont find any washers in the kit that will do the job without binding the bearing.Good Luck hope this help's!
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Old 11-20-2009, 03:30 PM   #913 (permalink)
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Question Hovering head speed?

Hay Finless Bob !I have a simple one for you, What rotor head RPM are you running in the normal flight mode @ Hover power? Mine seems a little low I got a little bucking going on until I switch over to ST1 then it all goes away,I go into ST1 right away anyway but I would like to get that Normal Hovering RPM just right 13T,2600mAh,30C. I haven't had a helper to work my tac. so I don't know where I'm at.? Any feed back I thank you now! Thank!
JOE.
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Old 11-21-2009, 09:55 AM   #914 (permalink)
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The head speed is up there.
I run 90% flat is ID1 and 100% flat in ID2
For normal I run 0, 60, 80, 90, 100 which means at hover in normal I am at 90% which is the same as my ID1 curve.
What the head speed is I do not know as I never measured it but a stock 500 with 13T pinion and 100% flat curve runs about 2700 give or take 100.

Bob
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Old 11-24-2009, 10:49 PM   #915 (permalink)
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Default TREX 500 HEAD SPEED

Quote:
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The head speed is up there.
I run 90% flat is ID1 and 100% flat in ID2
For normal I run 0, 60, 80, 90, 100 which means at hover in normal I am at 90% which is the same as my ID1 curve.
What the head speed is I do not know as I never measured it but a stock 500 with 13T pinion and 100% flat curve runs about 2700 give or take 100.

Bob
Thank's for that Bob that helps my throttle curve was a little low in the normal flight mode. I'm running about 25% program mix. I was a few %'s off on my middle three points I jacked up the hover throttle a little and it's nice and smooth!! and I1-&I2 are just perfect! Great head speed throughout now no more bucking bronco!! THANKS AGAIN BOB!
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Old 12-06-2009, 12:01 AM   #916 (permalink)
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Default Trex 500

Thank you Bob
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Old 12-08-2009, 04:21 PM   #917 (permalink)
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how do i set up my xp7202 jr to my trex 500
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Old 12-08-2009, 04:32 PM   #918 (permalink)
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hey bob do you have any videos on setting up a jr xp7202
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Old 12-08-2009, 04:45 PM   #919 (permalink)
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7202 I think is the same as the DX7 no?

Bob
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Old 12-08-2009, 07:32 PM   #920 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by easyfly View Post
hey bob do you have any videos on setting up a jr xp7202
Yah... same as DX7 - search Google and Youtube, there's probably 50 videos.
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