main gear is running low on pinion gear

[joecass2]

I have noticed the my main gear is running low on my pinion gear making some white dust.

were are your main gear in relation to the pinion is it low like mine? is this normal?

[Vaeloron]

Here is mine. I hope this helps. Not sure if this is where you are seeing the issue or not. This is with a Redline 56h.

[joecass2]

thank you Vaeloron

mine is lower than that. the tail drive gears are perfectly in the middle. that means that my pinion is to high but why? I can also see the clutch showing on the bottom of the clutch bell little bit.

[Vaeloron]

I suspect you may have a bearing block installed upside down.

Edit: on closer inspection that doesnt seem possible. Can you post some pics. I will post some as well.

[Vaeloron]

Okay. Lets compare. Here are some more pics.

[joecass2]

the second pic you posted looks kind of close to what I have. see what you think

[skytrekin]

Their is a washer that goes between the main gear and lower gear. The kit comes with one, but I think 2 would be better.

[Vaeloron]

I think your pinion may just be a hair higher than mine but I dont think its cause for concern. The clutch being exposed probably has more to do with the motor length.

[joecass2]

ok thanks Vaeloron for all your help.

why dose thunder tiger run the main gear so low on the pinion when there is so much room on top?

[Iceberg86300]

Can't answer regarding thunder tiger but it could just be a tolerance issue.

Question is where is the issue. Looking at only the pinion and main gear it looks like you just barely have full engagement between pinion and main gear. (it looks like the main is sitting just above or right on the part of the pinion where the teeth are "knocked off", metal gears usually have a small chamfer so they don't chew up anything.)

The more pressing issue I see is with the main and auto gear. You're gap between them is larger, and the auto gear looks like it could contact the bell, or already has, which could have shed the part of the gear creating the dust you describe.

In not familiar with this model, is there any thing that can affect the position of the main / auto gear?

Also, how about the motor mounting? Any adjustment there or are counter sunk screws used to lock it in a specific position up and down?

Again, not familiar with this model so I'm not sure if this is a solution. If the shaft is shortened will that bring the bell / pinion lower? If so you can file the shaft a bit. But if it's like my .21 buggy motors this is not for the faint of heart. In my case the bearings ride on the motor shaft, but everything tightens against the end of the shaft, so if it is not perpendicular to the shaft axis so you can get some moment load in the bearings.

Nature of gear drives already creates a moment because the tooth profiles, so as long as you don't grind it with a noticeable angle it really shouldn't create a problem.

With all that said, do you really want to grind the shaft? (if that would help)

Gears are barely engaged, but engaged, and if the auto gear was / is hitting the bell at some point in the rotation then the problem has or will solve itself. So I agree with the sentiment above, just fly it.

If you're into perfection like me I would look into the main and auto gear first whenever maintenance is needed that would make the gears easier to mess with. Plus checking the drive for any burrs that would make the bell sit higher, as well as any thing like dirt or an incorrect washer or shim or something that shouldn't be there causing the bell to ride higher. Grinding would be a last resort for me.

Regards,

Steve

[Rob43]

Joe,

I took a keen look at my machine this morning. Mine looks almost identical to yours. I believe it is a parts tolerance issue. From what I can see, we cannot adjust anything further:

• The main shaft cannot move up wards any further without affecting the tail drive gear mesh. And, the tail drive gear is already in perfect mesh with the tail drive pinion.
• The position of the main gear rests against the bottom of the one way flange just above the main gear. The length of the one way sleeve was why many of us needed an extra shim between the main and tail drive gears.
• The clutch bell axial position is fixed by the parts stack, which, in turn, fixes the axial position of the pinion. This could, however, be tweaked with some grinding of the top of the bell a bit. A shim could then be placed above the pinion to lower it into better alignment. Not much needed...maybe .5mm-1.0mm. I've not investigated this much yet. I could be wrong that this is possible.

I am not seeing anything more that could be done to align the pinion and main gear better.

[joecass2]

thanks guys

I was thinking about putting a washer on top of the pinion this will lower the pinion down.

the problem is finding a 8mm washer with a small outer ID. a small out ID is needed so that it would not bind on the outer race of the starter shaft bearing.

[Iceberg86300]

Mcmaster will probably have what you need. It will just be expensive for what it is.

Regards,

Steve

[joecass2]

I checked over there I did not see anything

[Iceberg86300]

Originally Posted by joecass2

I checked over there I did not see anything

What exactly do you need?

Shim / washer for an 8mm bolt? Or an 8mm shaft?

Max OD?

Is there an assy drawing that would show where you want the shim?

I've got some catalogues to go through, but really need to know the specifics to get searching. An assy view where you can tell me where the shim needs to go would be the best bet.

Regards,

Steve

[Iceberg86300]

If you can give me the nominal dimensions you need I can figure out the rest.

So OD of the shaft or nominal screw size, specify which one. And the OD of the inner bearing. That should be all I need to find something.

Regards,

Steve

[Iceberg86300]

Neither of these would work? I just picked the smallest thickness. There are thicker shims available with the same dimensions.

Screw size 8mm
http://www.mcmaster.com/#91437a416/=pxhnbz

Shaft size 8mm
http://www.mcmaster.com/#91437a248/=pxhohl

[Rob43]

Those are close, but not quite. Their specifications are to fit the shoulder screws and not bearing journals. Unfortunately, when I looked them up, the ID is too small.

The one below are designed precisely for fitting shaft diameters to rest against bearing inner race. This particular one is .5mm. There are a variety of thicknesses available at AMAIN.

LINK

[Iceberg86300]

Originally Posted by Rob43

Those are close, but not quite. Their specifications are to fit the shoulder screws and not bearing journals. Unfortunately, when I looked them up, the ID is too small.

The one below are designed precisely for fitting shaft diameters to rest against bearing inner race. This particular one is .5mm. There are a variety of thicknesses available at AMAIN.

LINK

The ID is too small?

The shortening shims are designed for the shaft of the shoulder bolt. 8.254mm ID, OD is 12.476.

(2nd link is for shortening the shoulder length on an 8mm shoulder (8mm shaft))

Shoulder bolts are used for mounting bearings among other things, don't see why they wouldn't work, unless you are referring to the OD of the shim being to large to fit inside a recess.

Doesn't really matter as AMAIN has them cheaper, just wondering wondering why the shortening shims for an 8mm shoulder wouldn't work.

(I tossed the lengthening shims in there because I didn't know if it was an 8mm screw or 8mm shaft.

Regards,

Steve

[joecass2]

Originally Posted by Rob43

Those are close, but not quite. Their specifications are to fit the shoulder screws and not bearing journals. Unfortunately, when I looked them up, the ID is too small.

The one below are designed precisely for fitting shaft diameters to rest against bearing inner race. This particular one is .5mm. There are a variety of thicknesses available at AMAIN.

LINK

that should be a perfect fit. thank you