Do you know the powercroco???

[f22warzone]

woohoooo 24% : ) will be 25% with the new wire

you should go 4035 for the rex : ) their pretty sweet in the 700 so in a 600 it should move out

I have a question or 3 , did you make your green cover for the stator or did it come like that, as I didn't really like the fiberglass insulator that came with mine, it was kinda thin and the wires cut on the core to easy. That green stuff looks good, and how did you get away with using no paper? Also do you seal it up with epoxy after your done or just leave the wires the way they are.

[torro]

the 3026 comes with this green stuff! if i´m sure, that the winding is correct, i glue it with 2K glue. i use "UHU endfest 300" this stuff soaks itself in the winding

on powercroco, they file a chamfer with 45° at the edges of the fiberglass plate.
maybe, you´re pulling too hard...

sissy-spoiler?!?

put the wire on the radiator, wait 5 minutes, make 1 or 2 winds and back on the radiator

[f22warzone]

Originally Posted by torro

the 3026 comes with this green stuff! if i´m sure, that the winding is correct, i glue it with 2K glue. i use "UHU endfest 300" this stuff soaks itself in the winding

on powercroco, they file a chamfer with 45° at the edges of the fiberglass plate.
maybe, you´re pulling too hard...

sissy-spoiler?!?

put the wire on the radiator, wait 5 minutes, make 1 or 2 winds and back on the radiator

I did the whole 45' chamfer, that didn't work at all so i took some 800 grit sand paper to it and the stator : ) wire was sliding nice then but i guess not good enough, Next is a better sanding job and kevlar so their should be no cutting : )
I was pulling pretty hard as it was the only way to get the wire down enough for me to get my pliers on it.
What does heating of the wire do?

[torro]

heating makes it softer.
don´t pull too hard, otherwise, you make a 1,2 out of your 1,8!

they tested it on powercroco. i think it was maximum 1 kilo pulling for the 1mm wire.
more than 1 kilo made it smaller!

[f22warzone]

Trust me I don't think you could stretch the 1.8 cold if you tried lol that stuff is so thick, or at lest I was un able to and I bet I was pulling about 30lbs on it : )

Will try the heat trick, that sounds like it should work really well.

[g_dmitry]

Originally Posted by torro

new kits are coming!
the rpm was a little too slow for the "normal" protos with 5+6D, i´m gonna test 5+5D and 4+5D.

i measured the HK3026-880kv and without load, it makes about 1000kv...
i don´t know why, but the kv rating must be indicated at a little bit of load...

stay tuned, it will be impressive


(i ordered a little thicker wire )


Greets from Black Forest

Something probably is wrong with your measurements (or Scorpion specifications). Specified KV rating must be higher than real KV rating. Basically specified KV rating rating shows RPM/V with no load and with 0 resistance of the motor. But all motors have some resistace, therefore the real KV is lower. It usually lower by 5% or less. The less resistance motor has, the closer real KV to KV rating.

BTW. Considering scorpion specifications 3026-880 12N10P has 5+6D winding.

[f22warzone]

Originally Posted by g_dmitry

Something probably is wrong with your measurements (or Scorpion specifications). Specified KV rating must be higher than real KV rating. Basically specified KV rating rating shows RPM/V with no load and with 0 resistance of the motor. But all motors have some resistace, therefore the real KV is lower. It usually lower by 5% or less. The less resistance motor has, the closer real KV to KV rating.

BTW. Considering scorpion specifications 3026-880 12N10P has 5+6D winding.

specified kv ratings do not have to be higher. Take my kde 1917, its suppose to have 520kv but acutally has 554kv. It all depends on how it was wound that day, and will generally be +- 5%

As for as I know their is no formulas to really accurately determine kv rating, only trial and error. If their Is i would sure like to see one.

[g_dmitry]

Some manufactures specify KV rating differently. But check Powercroco website. He has some theory articles there, and explains what KV rating means.

As for as I know their is no formulas to really accurately determine kv rating, only trial and error. If their Is i would sure like to see one.

Yes, there is.

P.S. Of cause every motor has a bit different KV because non of them is ideal :-). 120rmp higher for 880kv is too much for an error.

[torro]

i measured 1030kv on the 3026-880kv...
5+6D was about "real" 750kv.
5+5D is about real 840kv
5+5YY is about real 890kv.

[g_dmitry]

How do you measure the KV?

1030 looks way too much. Something must be wrong.

4035-500kv 12N10P - Motor Wind 10 Turn Delta (from Scorpion web site)
3026-880kv 12N10P - Motor Wind 10 Turn Delta (from Scorpion web site)

Same motor configuration and same winding type. I know for sure (I re-wound 3 of them) that
4035-500kv 12N10P has 5+6D winding. 3026-880k must have same winding or Scorpion website published false data.

[g_dmitry]

Originally Posted by torro

5+5YY is about real 890kv.

http://www.powercroco.de/12N10P3026s...5+4x112YY.html
5+4YY has ~1130KV. So your motor should have ~ 1130 * 9 / 10 = 1017

[torro]

Originally Posted by g_dmitry

So your motor should have ~ 1130 * 9 / 10 = 1017

almost correct, i measured 1050. ( maybe that depends on timing setting)
BUT, after teaching gov.stor from YGE ESC, the data in the logger said 890kv.

i noticed that on all motors. the measured kv @ no load is about 10% higher than the kv in the heli.

for first tests, i use a mystery 20A ESC. if everything´s ok, the motor is authorized for the YGE. maybe i should measure the motor @ no load with the YGE.

[clicky]

Originally Posted by torro

almost correct, i measured 1050. ( maybe that depends on timing setting)
BUT, after teaching gov.stor from YGE ESC, the data in the logger said 890kv.

i noticed that on all motors. the measured kv @ no load is about 10% higher than the kv in the heli.

for first tests, i use a mystery 20A ESC. if everything´s ok, the motor is authorized for the YGE. maybe i should measure the motor @ no load with the YGE.

Yes... I've noticed it... The max I tached with your first motor, at 95% throttle with good battery is around 2390 RPM on stretched Protos. It's with Scorpion ESC. And that motor isn't as good bogging wise as original Scorpion 880KV motor (not stock MSH). It can't sustain continuous aileron tic/tocs - after 4-5 it bogs down too much I have to abandon them.

BTW ESC is not overheating any more (or at least heating up much more than comfortable for flying it battery after battery mismanaging collective) but I'm not flying it at 70-80% throttle as I had to 880KV motor... Now I'm going to get YGE ESC too and test everything with it - you did tach 2700RPM in that combination (on 425mm blades though) so I'm just curious to see will it make any difference.

[torro]

today was test flight day!

5+5x1,18YY with 15t pinion
2500@13° and 2800@14°
batts @ 30°C

i did tictocs and speed flight (the speed-meter said warp 3 )




YGE settings:

24° timing
gov.stor with fast.gov
P 0,9
I 0,05

the performance is so sick, unfortunately, @2800, the voltage of the batts goes down.
the nano-tech with 35C/70C is on the way.

[torro]

[clicky]

Cool! Very, very impressive!

[torro]

5+5YYx1,12 @ 17T @ 3200upm

http://www.rcmovie.de/video/85d5b2f5...fe-Rueckenauro

i´m NOT the pilot

[clicky]

Yup. That sounds powerful. Quite powerful!

[whisperdancer]

Those square loops at 1:40... killer.

[M52 POWER!]

Very nice!