TDR Technical Stuff (Tips) & Build Videos

[1banger]

no pitch up in FFF

Are you saying the 2010 pitches up in high speed FFF passes?

Not sure why Jan would design a head that does that on the FFF speed
record holding TDR. Is this some, up till now, unknown characteristic of
the new head?

Will be doing some testing on my 2010 this Sunday hopefully. I'll be looking
for any tendency for the TDR to pitch up in FFF.

[helicraze]

Helig, the black oring carriers have a larger dia than the spindle which allows the blades to rock back and forth, the white ones have no freeplay so it only moves if the dampers do as per most heli designs.

The red one is softer, once you replace the oring carriers to stop the rocking there is no need for the super hard 2 black dampers.

The 2010 head can pitch up slightly, depends on your approach, its not as forgiving, caught me out by suprise doing low low passes. It works well but i prefer the older design.

FYI 10-15MM movement on the 2010 blade tips is normal.

[nyc863]

Is there any particular technique in doing a TDR signature high speed pass?
other than .. well, fly out and high then come down in fff, and as you flatten out, keep adding more and more collective while holding altitude pretty constant by adding elevator..

[Heli G]

Originally Posted by helicraze

Helig, the black oring carriers have a larger dia than the spindle which allows the blades to rock back and forth, the white ones have no freeplay so it only moves if the dampers do as per most heli designs.

The red one is softer, once you replace the oring carriers to stop the rocking there is no need for the super hard 2 black dampers.

The 2010 head can pitch up slightly, depends on your approach, its not as forgiving, caught me out by suprise doing low low passes. It works well but i prefer the older design.

FYI 10-15MM movement on the 2010 blade tips is normal.

Thanks for that HC.

[Heli G]

Originally Posted by nyc863

Is there any particular technique in doing a TDR signature high speed pass?
other than .. well, fly out and high then come down in fff, and as you flatten out, keep adding more and more collective while holding altitude pretty constant by adding elevator..

Just an observation, but the higher and more vertical your heli after the stall turn the more free-falling flight you will have, provided you have your pitch at zero during the fall. The longer you can hold the fall, the more speed you will generate. Just remember gravity is a b!tch.

[jointer]

Thanks for the info how to get the 2009 head.
2010 flies well, but i just do not like the wobble of the head, the heli is very sensitive in hover probably due to that design...
My BLS251 issue - i lowered gain (stops are not so sharp) and replaced servo arm which did have some play in the hole where the clevis is.
Temperatures are 45-50 degrees Celsius in ambient around 25, so slightly better then before.
Must live with that.

[helicraze]

Just take your heli as high as you can in a stall turn, let it free fall and add pitch slowly, when its flying past you should be at full 14deg with no elevator needed.

It takes quite a while to get used to it and always room for improvement.

At lower RPM i think the heli would wobble on cyclic inputs on the 2010 head. Its cheap to change it, worth a go.

[Heli G]

Originally Posted by Heli G

I’ve also shot an email off to Jan to get his view on what an acceptable level of teetering is at the blade tips.

Got a quick reply from Jan:

the swinging feathering spindle is my intention to eliminate such shaking resonances of the whole helicopter during hovering.
Therefore the plastic bushes 0109 have got a hole of 8,2mm so that the spindle can move 2/10 of a millimeter up and down.
At the end of the blades this could be 6mm up and 6mm down.
So the rotor dont give little impulses to the main shaft during hovering which would results in resonances at certain revs on the head.
Only if you give a cycling input over the swash plate the spindle will contact the plastic bush immediately which turns the fuselage arround with the rotor movement so that you will notice no difference in agility compare to the standard system.

Best Regards

Jan

[Skint Eastwood]

Strange ive just completed the upgrade from 09 to 10 model and I find the hover much more stable, less twitchy and more locked in than before.

And i dont get any Bobbing of any kind even with fast passes at 1400 rpm.

I did have to dial in some more tail gain.

As a side note the 720's self levelling from inverted is an awesome sight on the Rigid, scary as hell at lowish level.

[OICU812]

On my 2010s with regular or fbl radix both work fine no issues.

[worldofmaya]

Here's a build video done by a German as a time-lapse :
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q6AFuEB2YEY[/ame]

[OICU812]

Very cool little video man!

[worldofmaya]

Moved this posting to the video thread....
-klaus

[Heli G]

Originally Posted by helicraze

After speaking with John, i replaced my 2 bolts on the main shaft (1 that clamps the rotor hub and the 1 that clamps the gear) with M4 12.9 grade shank bolts.
The ones i pulled out were bent even though they were tight and only done about 30 flights.

My 2nd TDR was shipped with a new stronger bolt (414a) for bolting the gear flange to the main shaft.

[helicraze]

Finally, both my TDRs (after John discovered this) had 12.9 grade shanked bolts installed from new. I did email Jan and he said not neccessary, but after John had his one snap on spool up i thought otherwise (mind you it had a crash but was still straight). When i first took mine out (i bought my first TDR second hand), they were both bent!!! Top and bottom!

[jointer]

Good tip, i have 200+ flight without any issue, except the tail support rods ungluing from the aluminium part (CA glue).
Will drill it through and glue bolt through it with epoxy.
But i was looking at this screws - when i adjust the head to be 90 degrees to chassis and look down to the bottom bolt, i can see it is not parallel to the top bolt in the head.
So probably bent, will buy 12.9 next week and replace.

Edit: bent, i was unable to get the bottom M4 out (i have too small hammer) and did damaged my L wrench on the top one (too soft tool material).
It seems i will need new center hub, because i will probably not be able to unscrew the top one.

[OICU812]

FFS a friend had recently made an order, myself and him in our area are only ones with TDR, I REALLY wish I had known he officially changed these two bolts or had included these for us with the order.

If there is one rant, the whole having to wire money and the pains in ordering parts is a real pain in the a$$ to say least, lol. Oh man, had to vent when I saw these new bolt pics, frustrating. I REALLY hope Jan can make his order site Paypal, Credit card or something and a system to verify that it has been sent, it's such a mystery the way it is setup now IMO.

[flymustangs]

Yes. I don't understand that. I was looking to pick up a used 3DMP while I was waiting for the TDR, but after hearing about this I'm not so sure I really want a Henseleit anymore. I knew you had to send a wire for the kits, but I figured the online parts store was "normal".

[Heli G]

Originally Posted by flymustangs

...after hearing about this I'm not so sure I really want a Henseleit anymore. I knew you had to send a wire for the kits, but I figured the online parts store was "normal".

Why not? A TDR is arguably the best 700 size machine out there, quality of parts and flying wise, so why deprive yourself of this utter pleasure?
The parts store actually works well – you can pick what you need, there are 3D images of the parts and shipping cost/time is not bad given the distance. I agree it is a pain to wire the money, but IMHO it still is a “small price to pay” for a damn fine heli. Hopefully Jan will improve the electronic payment method in future to cater for Paypal etc.

[OICU812]

Yea it is not worth "not getting" sorry I was just ranting cause I felt left out on the bolt gig. Still a wonderfull heli, BUT you gotta just be aware that yes you gotta wire money, be it for the kits or the parts.