KDE Tail Upgrade...to buy or not to buy?

[Rick Dizzle]

So I am looking at spending a lil cash on my 700E and want to know if this is worth getting? I have read both good and bad, so figured I would post and see what you guys think....Here is what I am looking at getting:

http://helidirect.com/kde-performanc...on-p-23702.hdx

Also will this work on a V1 Trex 700E or only the V2?

[jockew]

I think it's a great upgrade. It takes away just about all the slop in the tail control mechanism, making the tail hold solid.

[popokatepetl]

I don't see any slop with the CNC tail arm from Align. Don't see any reason buying this KDE upgrade.

[ShaneJourdan]

It works on V1 and V2. I beleive its a huge improvment underload. Its butter smooth.

I dont think the OEM version is even a close comparison.

Here is my V2 B hub with KDE setup.

[magbarn]

I think just upgrading to the V2B grips with the shims plus the original KDE link only upgrade (the one that dumps the brass bushing/collar for double ball bearings) is the most cost effective upgrade. Upgrading the slider, while more robust, is overkill.

[Glenn Goodlett]

The KDE tail control is far superior in my opinion. The Align system wears quickly and develops slop although it has fewer parts. I just replaced my KDE tail control with a new KDE kit after thousands of flights. The KDE does wear and develope slop but it takes a long time.

Also when using the KDE kit be sure to use sleeve retainer (they recommend blue locktite) between all of the outer bearing races and the bearing holders. This is where slop develops when the bearing begins to move within the CNC parts. It is covered in the instructions so this is nothing new, just a reminder.

Glenn

[rcflyerheli]

My thoughts from my experiences in this area.

You will have to have the V2 performance mod as well as the slider upgrade as well as a V2 Align tail. All this will cost you over $100.00.

If you go with the RC-TEK I2 tail, you will get a new hub/grips and yoke that are properly designed for the 700. Dual radial, one thrust bearing with no slop at all. The existing slider will work fine with the I2 system. That will cost $72.00 or there abouts. When I installed the I2 setup, it was as smooth a tail system as I have had on 5 different Align helis.

FWIW, my 2c worth.

[Helirob]

I have the KDE 700 tail installed on all five of my 700 helicopters (2 Electrics, 3 Nitros) and love it. No one can convince me the stock ALIGN setup worked as well - all five of mine had developed slop in only a few weeks of flying and I haven't had any issue with the KDE tails for months now. The price seems reasonable, as I'm not changing parts each month due to the old parts wearing out. No wear anywhere and the tail is always rock solid and smooth. I used to mess around changing tail gains and such in the past but now I simply dial in the gain and leave it - works great.

[Rick Dizzle]

Can someone explain to me the difference between using my stock V1 stuff vs the new V2 stuff with this kit...great pic of a V2...looking to understand what a V1 looks like and if I have to buy extra parts other than the KDE kit...

[rcflyerheli]

Here goes.

Align V1 tail: only 1 radial and 1 thrust bearing. Hub bolts get side load and break.

Align V2 tail: 2 radial and one thrust. Addresses the bolt breaking problem. There is no spacer between the thrust and radial bearings. Because of tolerances in machining, sometimes you can tighten the spindle bolt without causing binding, sometimes you can't. The real problem lies in the fit of the radial/thrust bearing under rotation. With no spacer between the radial and thrust bearing, both races of the radial bearing come into contact with the thrust bearing during rotation and the centrifugal forces cause binding/tail wagging. The fix is to install a shim/spacer between the radial and thrust bearings. Now with the shim installed, the hub bolt can't be fully tightened without causing binding.

V2a tail: Align addressed the issue by including a spacer in the tail kit, but the hub was a hit or miss as far as allowing the bolt to be fully tightened.

V2b tail: The center hub is now longer to allow the hub bolt to be fully tightened without causing binding. Tail kit includes the required shim.

That's the differences to the best of my knowledge.

[Glenn Goodlett]

I would like to hear more opinions of the I2 stuff especially the three blade tail. Do you get more tail authority swinging shorter blades? I may need to give it a try.

Glenn

[Rick Dizzle]

Originally Posted by rcflyerheli

Here goes.

Align V1 tail: only 1 radial and 1 thrust bearing. Hub bolts get side load and break.

Align V2 tail: 2 radial and one thrust. Addresses the bolt breaking problem. There is no spacer between the thrust and radial bearings. Because of tolerances in machining, sometimes you can tighten the spindle bolt without causing binding, sometimes you can't. The real problem lies in the fit of the radial/thrust bearing under rotation. With no spacer between the radial and thrust bearing, both races of the radial bearing come into contact with the thrust bearing during rotation and the centrifugal forces cause binding/tail wagging. The fix is to install a shim/spacer between the radial and thrust bearings. Now with the shim installed, the hub bolt can't be fully tightened without causing binding.

V2a tail: Align addressed the issue by including a spacer in the tail kit, but the hub was a hit or miss as far as allowing the bolt to be fully tightened.

V2b tail: The center hub is now longer to allow the hub bolt to be fully tightened without causing binding. Tail kit includes the required shim.

That's the differences to the best of my knowledge.

I have model kit # KX018E05T with my tail looking like this:



Which one is this? I have already added this:
http://www.kdedirect.com/TREX550600700PTUV2.html

Will I need anything else for the rest of the KDE kit to work?

Sorry just trying to grasp the concept...Thx!

[ShaneJourdan]

Originally Posted by Rick Dizzle

I have model kit # KX018E05T with my tail looking like this:



Which one is this? I have already added this:
http://www.kdedirect.com/TREX550600700PTUV2.html

Will I need anything else for the rest of the KDE kit to work?

Sorry just trying to grasp the concept...Thx!

That is the V1 Tail hub and grip, I dont htink the tail control was any differant on the V2 700E.

The item you bought from KDE was needed and can and should be used with the V2 tail hub and grips along with the KDE tail control.

The difference between V1 and V2 tail hub and grip is:

On the V1 the grip could shear off at the bolt holding the grip on and it was a bit sloppy. The V2 hub goes into the grip and is supported by grip bearings. The V2 also has 3 bearings 2 radial and 1 thrust. This is a good thread if you have not read it already. https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=332838

Just so you know my heli in the picture early in this thread displaying the KDE upgrades and V2 hub and grips started life as a V1 Tail.

So it looks like you already have 1 part of the puzzle.

I hope i understood your question and this helps.

[Azalin]

I only have this upgrade. Enough for me.

[dvillijs]

My 2c. I have the KDE performance tail control and the V2 tail (no need for the performance tail upgrade) and it is awesome..... Rock Solid with RotorTech's

If u have the bucks do it. I like my tail, nice and shiny now. (Similar to DoctorJ on 1st page)

[lowsmoke]

Im very happy with mine. This is on a 700N. This is what mine looks like now, im very please with how it went together.

[K2Freak]

All of my KDE upgrades have been great. Top notch customer service, top notch products.

Why is the poll closed?