Love the stretched protos, one question.

[sticknruddr]

I have a new protos with the stock scorpion motor, yge esc with the governor turned off, flat throttle curve 85%. FBL is an AR7200BX tail servo JR 3500G.

I have set the tail pushrod up so that in rate mode the tail does not drift.

I am missing something on the tail. When I piro to the left (CCW), the stop has a bounce and tail buzz/bark, then it holds. When I piro to the right, I get a slight buzz/bark as I start the piro then the piro is smooth and the stop is smooth and locked in.

I have tried gain values from 40-70. I have also tried different settings on dial 3. When I reduce dial 3 to the point it does not bark, the tail is very soft and not locked in.

Parameter D is red.

I have tried 2 servos with no change. I have tried 2 FBL units no change. (I have a blade 300x that has the second FBL unit. I have tried both FBL units in the blade 300x with the stock settings, and they both work great.)

I have also tried setting the tail pushrods so the tail blades have 0 pitch. No change.

Tail is butter smooth. Ball links have been sized and are smooth. Tail hub is balanced, tail blade have been dynamically balanced.

If anyone knows what I'm missing any ideas would be great.

Thank you in advance.

[DoubleCH]

I can think of 2 possible causes:

1. Too little max left rudder pitch compare to max right rudder pitch. Check max possible pitch both ways.
2. Servo arm too far towards left rudder pitch side at 0 pitch in which case full left rudder may require too much servo arm movement reducing its mechanical advantage and speed.

[flint723]

Different servo is all I would try at this point if you are sure you are good mechanically. Preferably full size (Savox 1290mg/Align ds650 or better), the Protos tail needs quite a bit of torque to work well.

Have you ever tried (carefully) spooling up with no mains and the tail pushrod disconnected? It takes a lot of force to move the tail pushrod by hand.

[DoubleCH]

Originally Posted by flint723

Have you ever tried (carefully) spooling up with no mains and the tail pushrod disconnected? It takes a lot of force to move the tail pushrod by hand.

Not if you run stock MSH tail blades with "tails" that were designed to work like chinese weights to reduce servo load. I can't speak for aftermarket tail blades that don't have "tails".

I'm running Savox 1290MG for tail with no problem running MSH orange tail blades but I've tried running it up full HS and tested pushrod force by hand (highly not recommended test unless you can tie-down the tail to prevent if from moving) to be not excessive.

EDIT: Agree though it's good advice to try standard size servo.