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Warp 360 Compass Warp 360 Model Helicopter Discussion |
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12-19-2012, 01:16 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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The Official Warp Mod Thread.
Ok Guys. This has been requested and is now open to all the mods everyone is doing to the Warp to either address certain deficiencies or customize it.
We have all seen areas where the Warp 360 can be improved. This is not a thread meant to bash the Warp but to further its development. And show us your improvements, ideas, and custom mods. With these new improvements all I ask is that everyone treat these ideas with respect, although healthy discussion is always welcome. I myself have improvements that address drive train issues I will post pics of in the next few days. For some reason HF keeps dropping posts today so I will try and get these posted up just as soon as I can. As well as more advanced mods that step way outside of stock design parameters. I have also already seen several other threads with improvements and great ideas I want to begin linking into this thread. As a guide for guys not only improving upon some of the stock design issues we have been seeing, but a step by step thread for all the Warp 360 owners today and in the future that want to take their helis to a higher level.
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12-19-2012, 01:36 PM | #2 (permalink) |
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The only mod I have done so far regards the tail-belt pulleys.
I added very thin washers between the pulley and block (in addition to the brass washers), this centered the pulleys in their respective slots. I would imagine that the thickness would vary from heli to heli as this is caused by slight deviation in manufacturing tolerances. Since that portion of the heli is designed to be a very precise fit, some tweaking is expected... So far, the only mod I am working on (on the drawing board) is new skids, they will be similar to the TDR skids, using a solid delrin tube instead of aluminum. Looking forward to see what you have in store man!
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~SAB~ Goblin 700 ~Compass~ Warp 360 ~Blade~ mCP X (BL) AMA# 977012 **Team BOCA Bearings** |
12-19-2012, 02:07 PM | #4 (permalink) |
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I honestly don’t remember... these are remnants from my RC car days, just left over hardware which I keep in one of these sectioned plastic containers.
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~SAB~ Goblin 700 ~Compass~ Warp 360 ~Blade~ mCP X (BL) AMA# 977012 **Team BOCA Bearings** |
12-19-2012, 02:07 PM | #5 (permalink) | |
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12-19-2012, 02:21 PM | #6 (permalink) |
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Sweet! Love mod threads! Here are three that I have done so far:
Canopy standOffs broke on my Warp and this is what I did to fix. https://www.helifreak.com/showpost.p...6&postcount=16 Also, I gave myself a little peace of mind with the landing skids by doing this. https://www.helifreak.com/showpost.p...73&postcount=8 I colored the base of the skids and the tail with yellow tape for added visibility. https://www.helifreak.com/showpost.p...5&postcount=63 Can't wait to see how others are tweaking their Warp.
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X5-12s/Yep120/KDE600-530/FullSizeVbar/belt/550mm
180cfx-ServoSaverMod/TorqueTubeClutch/CarbonBlades, DX7se My son Enzo - X5, 180cfx, DX7se |
12-19-2012, 03:14 PM | #7 (permalink) |
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I didn’t take any pictures... but next time I pull the block off I will.
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~SAB~ Goblin 700 ~Compass~ Warp 360 ~Blade~ mCP X (BL) AMA# 977012 **Team BOCA Bearings** |
12-19-2012, 03:22 PM | #8 (permalink) |
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This maybe?
Compass part # 82-3504 washer 3.2 x 5.2 x 0.4 The stock size is 3.2 x 4.5 x 0.4 So the only difference is in the outer diameter of the washer, the stock one is slightly smaller. I have a package of these washers but didn't try them, so I can't verify if they work without interference. However, I do have my tail guide pulleys shimmed slightly farther away from the block. I did this a while back and posted on it. However, I'm waiting on my FBL controller so I haven't flown the heli or spooled it up with the blades on yet.
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12-19-2012, 03:31 PM | #9 (permalink) |
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Canopy Standoff Mod
Key chain mod is well documented on the forums.
1) Buy some snap key chains 2) Buy some nylon bushings at Home Depot 3/8 x whatever length you need. If they are out of stock you can buy a lifetime supply of tubing and make your own by feeding the thinner tubing inside the thicker tubing. Polyethylene tubing ($2 for 15'). 3/8 od, x 1/4" id, and 1/4"od x .17 ID. 3) Buy some breakaway tabs from the 7hv parts if you want it to breakaway. 4) Buy some grommets. 3/8" Id. I believe. 5) Dremmel out a bigger hole in the canopy for the larger grommets. 6) Drill a bigger hole in the frame to accept a 2.5mm screw. 7) Remove rc boya from your vocabulary. 8) Go to number 1 and repeat for you entire fleet. Last edited by Diviner; 12-19-2012 at 09:33 PM.. |
12-19-2012, 04:35 PM | #10 (permalink) | |
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~SAB~ Goblin 700 ~Compass~ Warp 360 ~Blade~ mCP X (BL) AMA# 977012 **Team BOCA Bearings** |
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12-19-2012, 05:41 PM | #11 (permalink) |
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Kyosho makes all kinds of different size and thickness shims. I'm sure the other car manufacturers do as well.
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12-19-2012, 09:26 PM | #12 (permalink) |
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Well, here are a couple I have had to do just to address some of the stock issues we are facing. I have to keep this short or HF looses the pics. I have over 100 pics going now just in fab work, stock 'fix's and mods.
These first ones show how to mod the small single mount tension roller so that it quits wobbling and tilting off to an angle on the plate. Some guys are reporting belts hopping off. This stops that cold. I have to be honest here. When I first opened the kit the head assembly was what I wanted to get my hands on first. I did a precise step by step build photo shoot, but it was more involved than the one here in the factory sponsored build thread since I also changed out quite a few things. . And may belong there instead. I also cut new skids, replaced bearings with ceramics, Balanced the head, ect ect ect ect. And pre fit my new 420mm MsComposite blades for the grips. Plus designed a new 16mm boom mod that will allow us to use the cheap CF Hobbyking 500 booms (or Aligns) and stretch these or leave them as is. But using the much better Carbonfibre tubing. When and as I build a heli I am always thinking 'what can I do to improve this area'? What have the other guys come up with that I can use? So here is a very small photo shoot of just the head build after our tension roller 'fix" idea. At least till Warp comes up with their own. And a journey of the head mods. Notice the ProTec 170000lb button head bolts that are now keeping the grips on the hubs. More thread engagement, the factory bolts don't have much thread engagement! Also the Quick UK delrin grip mod. I also filed, sanded, and cleaned all the carbonfibre pieces in the kit. And may clear coat the larger CF body panels in urethane when I get the chance. I almost have this fully assembled, so this is just the start. I also included two pics of side by side comparisons of the 6mm warp shaft weight against the solid B400 shaft for those guys who complain about how heavy they are. Plus one later showing how much beefier the Warp 360 grips are compared to any other 450 head. Including the one I have been using that is a custom. I also tear out every bearing, mic them, check for bearing tolerances, and lube them individually. Then I inside coat the threads in each hole with loctite with a pic. This way the loctite gets down into the threads instead of peeling off the bolt at the top edge. It also keeps the bearings and other surface parts from getting loctite on them. The last two pics are me fitting my new MsComposite 420mm blades into these fantastic new Warp grips. Lets see if anyone notices a flaw in one of these pics. I have the replacement part coming.......
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12-19-2012, 11:27 PM | #13 (permalink) |
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Not sure if you can really call these mods but. I was having trouble seeing the warp when I went inverted at the golf dome because of the fairly dark background so I picked up some white peel and stick at my LHS and went to town.
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12-19-2012, 11:50 PM | #14 (permalink) |
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A hole in one of the main grip centers doesn't line up with the hole in the main grip plate?
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12-20-2012, 02:14 AM | #15 (permalink) | |
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Alright guys. Now both my tension roller bolts are level. Here is what I had to do, and anyone can do this with minimal tools. Hopefully Warp pays attention here since this is such a simple fix to anchor the bolts/rollers. Just a simple piece of CF laying around that I cut down to size. Then I took a fairly dull bit that exactly fit the holes in the plate, and hand spun it to score a mark in the exact center of the CF plate. Drilled it with a smaller bit, and then worked my way out till I finally hit the right bit that was snug around the bolt (#32). And installed it. No more bolt wag, and the rollers run perfectly true!
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12-20-2012, 05:28 AM | #16 (permalink) |
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Not to derail this... but I like your style.
Also... cool mod on the counter/pulley block! Scott
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12-20-2012, 05:35 AM | #17 (permalink) |
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LMH, did you use longer bolts to account for the CF bracer on the pulleys or all stock? Great idea and minimalistic too!
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12-20-2012, 08:10 AM | #18 (permalink) | |
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I like the arrow head shape you cut the peel'n'stick to on the bottom of the canopy ... I'd imagine that pops nicely! Nicely done, Randy. Don't hold me to it, but I had a conversation with Luke via email, and I think this is the solution that Compass has come up with for everyone with existing blocks. On the newer blocks, the tolerances is supposed to be much tighter now. |
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12-20-2012, 09:03 AM | #19 (permalink) |
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The CF plate is a neat mod, but I don't think the motor belt will clear the plate and/or nut on the single pulley side for those of us who aren't going to also mod the motor like you are.
Unless you can install it with both lock nuts facing down?
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12-20-2012, 12:43 PM | #20 (permalink) | |
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Our real problem lies in (as Jeff commented) the loose threads in the plate and also the small bolt contact area. Only one solution remained on my end that I could address. Yhchoong, no, I used the same bolts. But remember the single idle roller bolt was longer already than the stocker. The long bolt that holds both the motor belt and tail belt could use another 3mm in length to support the lock nut a little better though. It barely engages the nylon in the nut. My concept still needs a little work it seems. This is just a temporary 'fix' until Warp comes up with something better. Thanks Jeff, and Scott. I appreciate the comments. Hopefully Warp will have a more precise solution. (Just an old wannabe engineer trying to help here). I have to add, attention to detail on this heli is critical. Every bearing I ran across, including the swash was barely lubed. Especially the grip thrust bearings. I was surprised with the actual tolerances in the grip bearings. Tight! They roll just as smoothly as my Rave grips now that I lubed them up. Best out of all the 450s. But the tension rollers and tail bearings are abec 5 ceramic'd. And the tail is getting a dual slider control mod. Nice work going on here guys! I have been amazed at the innovations so far!
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