Things you should know about your Logo

[prototype3a]

Would it be possible to sort all the info in this thread in some sort of logical manner? I was also wondering if you could make a chart of the differences and common parts between all the versions of the Logo helis.

Thanks.

[TheBum]

Originally Posted by prototype3a

Would it be possible to sort all the info in this thread in some sort of logical manner? I was also wondering if you could make a chart of the differences and common parts between all the versions of the Logo helis.

Thanks.

Such is the nature of an active thread. If we spent time reorganizing information in threads, even just limited to sticky threads, we'd never get anything else done.

[prototype3a]

I really do think that some sort of comparison chart between the different kits would be very helpful. I have been considering a logo500 myself and would like to know more about the similarities between it and the 600/600se. This seems to be a common source of confusion among those who are new to the Mikado line of helicopters.

As far as this thread goes, sorting the various items between the models might be helpful.

[TheBum]

Nothing is stopping you from taking on the task. You might learn something useful in the process.

[dswitkin]

Originally Posted by prototype3a

Would it be possible to sort all the info in this thread in some sort of logical manner? I was also wondering if you could make a chart of the differences and common parts between all the versions of the Logo helis.

Thanks.

ReadyHeli has this chart but I think some of their setups are overkill:

http://www.readyheli.com/assets/images/mikadosetups.pdf

Daniel

[CHOPPER PATROL]

Helicraze in your initial sticky you comment on the Logo 500 regarding the tail blade grips being inadequate.

"-Logo 400/500/600 stock thrusted tail can fail with 105MM tails and even smaller, recommend quick uk tail (mikado or trex one, only balls are different) "

From purchasing my first Logo I decided to use a MicroHeli pitch slider and tail grips, which turned out to be a terrible decision, as I found out after the first flight. The tail blades went flying off in flight due to the grip hub breaking on both sides ( lesson learned, cast aluminum hub are not suitable for this size heli ). Next I used the stock pitch slider, Trex-600 SS hub, and G-Force grips. Flight failure this time was the pitch slider brass bushing came apart from the control ball, and once again I lost the tail. Following this I applied CA to the pitch slider assembly which should solve that problem. The next failure was that I attached the G-Force grips to the ss hub with a ss grub screw inserted into the hub with permanent locktite and a nylock nut to apply proper tension on bearings. The ss grub screw broke on one of the grips once again loosing the tail. ( sorry for the long list of explanations ).

I am now looking at the stock pitch slider, blade grip hub, and blade grips after assembling them, and wonder why there should be a problem running 92-95mm blades. Please advise whether this will work or do I need to use a Quick UK tail assembly, meaning the stock assembly is simply inadequate. I ask this because you mention "105 MM tails and even smaller". Is it possible Mikado has fixed this problem also?

TIA

[deepak]

my 2 cents worth
If u wish to use the regular size blades the original system design is adequate.
quality v blades or radix or similar carbon fiber balanced blades will be fine and the tail will work great. When you stress the parts by using the larger blades"105's" your asking for trouble. Like the blade grip coming apart in flight. Its happened to me personally. I took Mikado to task and they said it was designed to take a 92mm blade. What maneuver cant you fly with it. So I got upset and switched to quick uk. I have subsequently switched back to the originals but now use 95's with no issues
Just my 2 cents
regards
D

[dac7104]

You guys have talked me into a buying a Logo 500 and you have talked me out of one of my Align 550E's. I have been thinking about a 500 and with this thread I am sure of it. Should I get the full sized V-bar or is the mini V-bar ok, and where do I find the Scorpion HK-4025-1100? I can't find anybody that has that motor in stock. Oh yeah, anybody out there want a 550E that has only been hovered inside?

[dswitkin]

Full or mini VBar are both OK on a Logo 500. Also, a Scorpion 4020-1100 is plenty unless you're an extremely aggressive pilot.

Daniel

[EO19]

Originally Posted by dac7104

You guys have talked me into a buying a Logo 500 and you have talked me out of one of my Align 550E's. I have been thinking about a 500 and with this thread I am sure of it. Should I get the full sized V-bar or is the mini V-bar ok, and where do I find the Scorpion HK-4025-1100? I can't find anybody that has that motor in stock. Oh yeah, anybody out there want a 550E that has only been hovered inside?

I just built a 500 3D with a 4025-1100 and a CC Ice 100. It flies incredible. Very efficient with loads of power.

[$teve]

So I take it the stock tail is ok with the 92mm on my 500se? I planned on using the rototech's.

[EO19]

Yes, I'm running the stock tail with 92mm Edge tail blades.

[Mr.Andersen]

Is there a RPM limit fore the 500 to care about ore wil it flye happily at 2200-2300 rpm?

I have a Logo 500 3D flybar edition where im planing on using Rotortech 550 blades on it but the blades is realy close to the tail rotor.
Is it any chance the main blades can hit the tail blades in flight?

[dswitkin]

I fly the Logo 500 with 550mm blades at 2200 RPM and have zero problems. I'm sure many people fly a faster headspeed than that but for aerobatic flying it's plenty.

[$teve]

I started my build yesterday and things didn't go well. Seems parts bag #12 was missing, after a few emails I was told Mikado did away with bag #12 and the parts are somewhere else in the box it shipped in, so ok that's cool. However I've searched through the whole kit and the M2.5 x 10 bolts are not there. I freaked alittle, and dug through the trash like 5 times, looked everywhere and no bolts to get the frame together. I meticulously went through every bag over and over........they were not there. I had two 2.5mm bolts to put boom support together and the 4 that came with the 25mm motor mount, but that's it. I was insured the parts were there. I have tons of Trex screws, but their 3mm.

Not impressed with the manual (what the .F$#%$...is step 3?) or the frame so far. The tail has no slop but a little tight, don't know if the Quick UK 600 tail will work, was emailed by vendor that it wouldn't, but they have been wrong about other things that "do and do not" work on Mikado's.

Anyway I just bought the carbon frame (w/20mm boom mounts). I think it comes assembled, so just checking for loctite will be much more pleasant, providing all the necessary hardware is included.

I guess I'm spoiled building all Trex helis for the most part.

I guess I could sell the airframe/canopy/spare parts and build a T550 or T600.

Sorry after two weeks of spending close to 3K with spare parts and all, I'm ready to bail.

[dswitkin]

Yes the manual could be better. But I love the plastic frames. It's possible to have a very clean wiring job using them. Plus they are strong and cheap to replace in a crash.

[$teve]

Originally Posted by dswitkin

Yes the manual could be better. But I love the plastic frames. It's possible to have a very clean wiring job using them. Plus they are strong and cheap to replace in a crash.

Want to buy another set of frames W/25 and 30mm motor mounts? oh and minus the screws.


PM me an offer if interested.

Thanks

[tw-heli]

Just wait until you fly the Logo. You won't remember any of the hassles you had! Good Luck and Happy Flying.

[ElectricSheep]

@$teve:
Yes, the manual could be better. ...But did you watch Mercuriell's build videos?
https://www.helifreak.com/showthread...951#post425951

Even though they're a few years old and there may have been a few changes since they were made, I watched these and built my first Logo without a hitch. Just saying this because the build is pretty easy if you watch the videos and use the manual as just a reference.

Just curious, what don't you like about the frames (other than the missing screws)?

And about the missing screws, I agree that's frustrating, but when I've lost a screw/bolt and just had to have it the same day, I just went down to the local DeNault's hardware store (where everything is 3x more expensive than Home Depot) and picked up a few for no more than $1 or $2 for a what I needed, plus some extras. You shouldn't have to do that though... It's frustrating. Whenever I find something missing in any kit (and after I get over being PO'd for a little while), I just try to remember that these kits are assembled by people -- who (like me) are never perfect.

[$teve]

Originally Posted by ElectricSheep

Just curious, what don't you like about the frames (other than the missing screws)?

Trying to push the two half's together around the boom mount just doesn't mate up, it does with out the boom mount. Most likely just need the screws to tighten together. And after watching the carbon frame video on RH, it's got good flat surfaces for mounting ESC and Vbar, looks to be more room for bigger lipos, the triple bearing blocks and the better motor mount has me sold, it's a masterpiece, lol. I just had one of those days, and had to just walk away, and I work nights and sleep during the days, it was about 2:00AM this morning when I got started, and just didn't want to touch it today. Thanks for the link, I'll be watching those.