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600 Class Electric Helicopters 600 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.


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Old 11-06-2014, 08:15 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default T-rex 600CF to DFC conversion

I need help i want to convert my T-rex 600CF to a DFC head all the parts are easy enough to find but i'm not sure what shaft to buy i'm pretty sure the shaft that comes with this
http://www.amain.com/Align-600DFC-Ma...de-Set/p227704
will be to short and not reach the third block i could be wrong this is were i need help
What shaft should i buy can some one help me.

Thanks in advance
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Old 11-07-2014, 12:12 PM   #2 (permalink)
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There is no shaft for the 600e DFC that will reach the 3rd bearing block.
But, there is a shaft for the 600N DFC that does reach the 3rd bearing block on the nitro.

There are a couple of problems using the nitro DFC shaft on the electric
One is that it is longer on top that the electric DFC shaft.
The other is tge welded ring is in the wrong location on the nitro shaft to fit correctly on the electric.

You can fly the 600E converted to DFC without the longer shaft.
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Old 11-07-2014, 03:32 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ticedoff8 View Post
There is no shaft for the 600e DFC that will reach the 3rd bearing block.
But, there is a shaft for the 600N DFC that does reach the 3rd bearing block on the nitro.

There are a couple of problems using the nitro DFC shaft on the electric
One is that it is longer on top that the electric DFC shaft.
The other is tge welded ring is in the wrong location on the nitro shaft to fit correctly on the electric.

You can fly the 600E converted to DFC without the longer shaft.
can the tge ring be removed from the shaft
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Old 11-11-2014, 01:07 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Yes. I use a drill press and a grinder.
Chuck the shaft into a drill press.
While the drill press is running, use a grinder (Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel) to grind most of the ring off.
As you get close to the final dimention, use a file to smooth it out and match the diameter of the rest of the shaft.
I use a spare main bearing or an old swashplate as a gauge. When the bearing or swashplate slides smoothly over where the welded ring used to be, then you are done.

But, I have never used a 600N nitro DFC shaft on a 600E DFC.
I have both the 600N DFC and the 600E DFC. I just use shorter shaft on my 600E DFC
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Old 11-24-2014, 03:11 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Please post back with any progress. I'm interested in doing this as well.
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Old 11-25-2014, 11:02 PM   #6 (permalink)
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http://www.ronlund.com/rcheli-prod/HN6118.html 191.8 mm is what I used on my 600E CF to DFC head conversion. No cutting or grinding needed. I'm not sure if this shaft was intended for electric or nitro, but it reaches the third bearing block with no issues.

Ted
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Last edited by strat1960s; 11-26-2014 at 12:41 PM.. Reason: Type-O Nut should be No. Darn auto correct.
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Old 11-26-2014, 11:49 AM   #7 (permalink)
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The 191mm main mast is from the older 600 E & N helis. I have a few of them.
There is no welded ring - it uses a collar ring in its place. So, it is somewhat adjustable.

With the old mast, the collar allows you to get the perfect distance from the top main mast bearing to the bottom main mast bearing.
On the new masts (with the welded ring), you have to use 10mm dia shims and test fit until you get the right combination of shims to minimize runout.

The problem is that the old 191mm main mast is too high for the DFC head.

On a DFC setup (using the DFC main mast and the DFC head), the distance from the bottom of the welded ring (where is rests against the top main mast bearing) is 74mm for the Nitro DFC and 70mm for the Elect DFC.

And, the overall length of the Nitro DFC mast (the -002 which reaches the 3rd bearing on the Nitro) is about 180mm.

So, unless you cut the older 191mm mast down and redrill the top jesus bolt, the DFC head and swash is 10mm too high.

On the older 600E (with the swash anti-torque guide), you could add 10mm to the swash links and get away with that.

On the newer 600E, there is a new elevator A-arm that has a fixed (non-adjustable) length.

If your 600E uses that new non-adjustable elevator A-arm, you cannot raise the swash 10mm to compensate for the old adjustable and taller mast.
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Old 11-26-2014, 12:49 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I have the older 600 CF. I didn't need to cut and drill the main shaft.
On my ESP, yes, I ran into the problem of finding a shaft the right length and adjusting the rods to the exact length to get that right. I went through almost a dozen shafts before I found the right one. I still have all those unused shafts. If you can figure out the length you need let me know and I can check to see if I have it. If I do I can send it to you. I'm not using them so if I can save you a few bucks let me know.

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Old 11-26-2014, 01:19 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Don't need it, don't want it.
But, thanks for the offer.
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Old 07-12-2015, 08:01 PM   #10 (permalink)
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AGNH60239A
I used this shaft and cut the ring off with a grinder and added this

[IMG][/IMG]

The one that comes with this shaft Align 600 Main Shaft

[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 07-12-2015, 08:49 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Can you please post a complete list of parts you needed?

Thank you for the great info,

Thomas
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Old 07-12-2015, 09:13 PM   #12 (permalink)
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AGNH6NH002XX

AGNH60159
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Old 07-12-2015, 09:19 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Default Is this the parts list needed?

AGNH6NH002XX - Align 600N DFC Main Shaft Set
AGNH60239A - Align 600DFC Main Rotor Head Upgrade Set
AGNH60204 - Align 600PRO Metal Main Rotor Holder
AGNH60248 - Align 600DFC CCPM Metal Swashplate

Thank you again,

Thomas
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