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nano CP X Blade nano CP X Helicopters Information and Help


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Old 11-13-2012, 10:46 AM   #101 (permalink)
 

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Unfortunately, the pin on the antirotation is the one that broke first on mine.

It broke right where the two meets.

I reinforced it the same way I did here. With carbon fiber, CA and heatshrink tube to give it a finished look. Very sturdy thus far.

http://www.hacksmods.com/2012/11/bla...reinforcement/
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Old 11-13-2012, 10:50 AM   #102 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Daryoon View Post
Unfortunately, the pin on the antirotation is the one that broke first on mine.

It broke right where the two meets.

I reinforced it the same way I did here. With carbon fiber, CA and heatshrink tube to give it a finished look. Very sturdy thus far.

http://www.hacksmods.com/2012/11/bla...reinforcement/
That's pretty much what I did on the mcpx frame but with thread and CA. I also had a 1mm carbon rod glued with thread between the canopy posts. Kinda like Dylan's frame brace.

The shrink wrap was a good idea, looks nice and clean.
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Old 11-13-2012, 10:55 AM   #103 (permalink)
 

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The shrink wrap is not going to be as strong as the thread wrap. But goal is to be strong enough. Which it seems to be. Certainly, much, much stronger than the stock frame by itself. The weigh gain is minimal...and looks clean.
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Old 11-13-2012, 10:18 PM   #104 (permalink)
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These do snap off after a while. This is an attempt to avoid this. You cut the 3 long ones in 1/2, then shrink wrap back together. The intention is to make the shrink wrap break, in stead of the pins breaking near the frame (=hard to repair). Especially if you have an Astroid modded frame you don't wanna replace the whole frame any time soon. Does seem to work well!

Excellent idea! I'm buying a new frame tomorrow due to 2 broken pins, I must have gone through half a dozen frames because of broken pins on my mcpx. I will definately try this, though I think I'll add a dab of rubber glue to the cut surfaces, then slide on the heat shrink.
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Old 11-14-2012, 02:29 AM   #105 (permalink)
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Excellent idea! I'm buying a new frame tomorrow due to 2 broken pins, I must have gone through half a dozen frames because of broken pins on my mcpx. I will definately try this, though I think I'll add a dab of rubber glue to the cut surfaces, then slide on the heat shrink.
Good idea! One can also add a second shrink wrap if you want it a bit stiffer. Rubber glue is good as it can be removed easily vs. CA.

Have pondered about that 4th pin (by the anti-rotation guide). I'll leave it for now. If/when it breaks I'll drill a hole and enter a piece of 1,5mm carbon rod.

You guys gotta try PlastiDip too! It really really saves that canopy!!!
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Old 11-14-2012, 07:27 AM   #106 (permalink)
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Excellent idea! I'm buying a new frame tomorrow due to 2 broken pins, I must have gone through half a dozen frames because of broken pins on my mcpx. I will definately try this, though I think I'll add a dab of rubber glue to the cut surfaces, then slide on the heat shrink.
I did it yesterday on mine: I suggest, instead od cutting and then gluing againg, just to dent for half of the thickness the pin, and put heatshring: this way, it is easier to keep peices alltogheter while heating, the fractioned section will break for first, and until then, the pins will be "mint new".
In addition, after a crash, the plastic will bent, but not break, hel keeping the pin aligned.
I crashed several times after the mod, and it worked fine!

For the antirotation pin, so far I never broke any of them. but in case, a little CF reinforcement can be considered
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Old 11-14-2012, 07:36 AM   #107 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by bladebuster.rc View Post
I did it yesterday on mine: I suggest, instead od cutting and then gluing againg, just to dent for half of the thickness the pin, and put heatshring: this way, it is easier to keep peices alltogheter while heating, the fractioned section will break for first, and until then, the pins will be "mint new".
In addition, after a crash, the plastic will bent, but not break, hel keeping the pin aligned.
I crashed several times after the mod, and it worked fine!

For the antirotation pin, so far I never broke any of them. but in case, a little CF reinforcement can be considered
Cool! Ver. 2.0 already!
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Old 11-18-2012, 02:55 AM   #108 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by bladebuster.rc View Post
I did it yesterday on mine: I suggest, instead od cutting and then gluing againg, just to dent for half of the thickness the pin, and put heatshring: this way, it is easier to keep peices alltogheter while heating, the fractioned section will break for first, and until then, the pins will be "mint new".
In addition, after a crash, the plastic will bent, but not break, hel keeping the pin aligned.
I crashed several times after the mod, and it worked fine!

For the antirotation pin, so far I never broke any of them. but in case, a little CF reinforcement can be considered
Just a feedback: i am been flying ( and crashing proportionally) so far 60/70 lipos, recently also in wild bl config, and the pins , althoug broken inside in the prefrac point, do their dirty job at best!

For the inventor: thumb up!
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Old 11-27-2012, 07:27 AM   #109 (permalink)
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Default CG problem?

When inverted my nano is not balanced or something.

I am so envious. I see the nano in the videos hovering inverted with hands off the sticks but mine needs constant correction (elevator back) to maintain a hover.

Upright I can take my hands off the controls for a few seconds but inverted it will scoot off backwards unless I correct.

Any clues? Thanks people.
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Old 11-27-2012, 03:05 PM   #110 (permalink)
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A word of caution with the canopy pin mod. Be careful with the heat. I used a soldering iron to do mine. I meltd one of the servo mounts off. No big deal on that. Next one I used a heat gun to do. Big goof. The frame got hot enough to twist. Time for another frame.
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Old 11-28-2012, 05:30 PM   #111 (permalink)
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Yes, don't overdo it, doesn't need that much heat. You can also get shrinkwrap that actually fits without even heating it. Or 1) cut 2) shrink to the loose part 3) slide onto the inner part. OR use silicone tubing and don't get overheated

I've ordered the MH alu swash with a rear anti-rotation bracket, so I can cut in 1/2 my last canopy pin

Had tons of flight with this mod - works like a charm! The shrikwrap does not even seem to wear off, and it seems like it saves the canopy more too. Don't think I'll ever need to replace the frame again ever!

Highly recommended freaks!

Also the PlastiDip coating on the outside of the canopy, really makes it a lot more durable!
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Old 11-28-2012, 07:42 PM   #112 (permalink)
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I am waiting on better weather to do the plastidip on the canopy. Did it on the MsrX. It does seem to hold up better. Just dulls it down some.
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Old 11-29-2012, 04:17 AM   #113 (permalink)
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I am waiting on better weather to do the plastidip on the canopy. Did it on the MsrX. It does seem to hold up better. Just dulls it down some.
You can also brush on some ShoeGoo on the nose - inside and out. But now we're adding some weight... ok for brushless though.
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Old 11-29-2012, 12:11 PM   #114 (permalink)
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I have the mild kit on my original frame and looks like I'm going to cut the pins and do the break-a-way heatshrink method to make the frame last a super long time!
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Old 11-29-2012, 07:52 PM   #115 (permalink)
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I posted this a couple of times but I think it's probably important enough to add to this thread.

I had a pretty bad tail wag while in flight last night. I called HH tech support about it today and he said, after asking me about whether I checked for a damaged boom or a loose main gear, that the feathering shaft should have about 1mm of horizontal play on it when you pull the blade grips.

This is contrary to what was in the first post, but...when I did it tonight, I flew my Nano and I had NO tail wag. So, either the tail wag was caused by the batteries I was flying last night or the slop in the feathering shaft fixed it. I'll test more tonight.
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Old 11-30-2012, 11:49 AM   #116 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by MrRoboHeli View Post
I posted this a couple of times but I think it's probably important enough to add to this thread.

I had a pretty bad tail wag while in flight last night. I called HH tech support about it today and he said, after asking me about whether I checked for a damaged boom or a loose main gear, that the feathering shaft should have about 1mm of horizontal play on it when you pull the blade grips.

This is contrary to what was in the first post, but...when I did it tonight, I flew my Nano and I had NO tail wag. So, either the tail wag was caused by the batteries I was flying last night or the slop in the feathering shaft fixed it. I'll test more tonight.
One mm?? That is a huge amount of play in the head I always use only a hair and it works perfect.
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Old 11-30-2012, 02:47 PM   #117 (permalink)
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1mm does sound huge doesn't it? But it came from the words of HH and they know their products best. I'm going to give it a try and see. No harm done if it doesn't work.

I have about a 1/4" tail wag. More of a nuisance than anything but if this works...
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Old 11-30-2012, 03:53 PM   #118 (permalink)
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1mm does sound huge doesn't it? But it came from the words of HH and they know their products best. I'm going to give it a try and see. No harm done if it doesn't work.

I have about a 1/4" tail wag. More of a nuisance than anything but if this works...
i had the same 1/4" of tail wag with everything set up properly. the thing that stopped the wag for me, was fitting the full body from an mCX2. i think with the tail having a little extra support from the full body, it kills the wag.
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Old 11-30-2012, 10:04 PM   #119 (permalink)
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Yeah, I was pretty incredulous on the phone when the guy said 1mm. So far it's worked great for my two Nanos. Of course, I'm still learning CP so I'm only doing circuits and piros right now. Not even in stunt mode yet... :p

Another thing having that much play done for me is to reduce the "wet dog shake" that occurred when I landed and killed the throttle. At a certain headspeed, the whole heli shook like crazy before slowing down and stopping. That's gone now.

I'm planning on trying to synch up the bolt a little bit more sometime and see what that does.

As it stand, my "pre flight check" consists of making sure that there isn't any MORE play in the blade grips that would imply the nut is working itself loose..... :o !!!
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Old 12-01-2012, 09:43 AM   #120 (permalink)
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.

As it stand, my "pre flight check" consists of making sure that there isn't any MORE play in the blade grips that would imply the nut is working itself loose..... :o !!!
Put a SMALL dab of Elmers or caulk on the nut of the FS once you get it to your liking.
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