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Old 12-09-2009, 12:15 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by OnTheSnap View Post
Thanks Mosh! We have pretty much the same setup on the cyclic and tail servos. So it should be a close fit. I plan on using pitch pump, hard 3D stick response, no expo and a high agility setting since this is generally what I prefer. So more then likely our preferences for flight will result in different settings unless you like things the same way I do.

It's the same exact sensor and processor, but with the full size vBar you tend to have less vibration. So there is a possibility a higher gain value can be achieved.
Just posted it on OICU's thread.

I actually fly at aggressive stick response and zero pitch pump.

I understand stick response adjusts the bell-hiller ratio and how much goes directly into the cyclics vs damped through the system. I haven't compared it to hard-3d much honestly and it's something I want to compare in the future. I heard the Mikado 3D pilots fly in Normal.

I have no pitch pump since the Protos is so light it's already very aggressive on collective. It might be interesting to play with so you can pop it at the extremes of collective but I wanted nothing at first to get a baseline of how it feels before I mess with it. I have a S curve on pitch on my Trex 600 to match it a bit more closely to the Protos. We should all definitely meet up and compare our experiences and setup when you get it all together!
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Old 12-30-2009, 04:31 AM   #22 (permalink)
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anyone have a pic of the servo trays installed
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Old 12-30-2009, 09:00 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by sid-fmx View Post
anyone have a pic of the servo trays installed
They are expensive. I did a post over on RR about the weight of these vs. the plastic. The weight difference is negligible in my opinion. In short, they are worth the money to me. I have attached a pic.

I also bought the aluminum washout mixers and the aluminum pulley kit. Those are also worth the expense.
The washouts ran freely and precisely moreso than the stock plastic. The pulleys have the advantage of spinning true and not getting flat spots in them and killing the belt (although the flat spots usually come from a bad bearing).

They are quality MSH parts. I recommend them as I don't think they would ever break or need replacing unless you just flat out lose them in a crash.
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Old 05-31-2010, 08:35 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Still liking the aluminum servo cage?
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Old 06-01-2010, 08:27 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I'd like to know if anyone has crashed these hard. I've bent plenty of expensive aluminum bits before and the plastic cases are cheap enough to replace. Last thing I want to do is spend the money for these and bend them in a hard crash.
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Old 06-01-2010, 08:47 PM   #26 (permalink)
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I don't own them. But IMO, I don't think they are worth having.

Out of almost 100 flights, I've crashed 4 times. 3 of those hard. One of those 3, the heli nose dove straight into the pavement from 20 ft in the air. Of those 3 times, I only broke the servo frame once and it was when the heli went nose/blades first into the GRASS/dirt from about 25 ft above.

I think what has a factor in saving the servo frame is the hollow main shaft. They will bend without braking the plastic servo frames. But it all depends on the type of impact.

Personally I rather spend the money on other extra parts like plastic frames, tail booms, servo rods, bearings, or fusuno canopies.

Update: I would also add that those CNC frames look pretty beefy. So they most likely won't get hurt in a crash.
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