Removing Main Shaft

[rza996]

New to the mikado heli's. Just bought a 700 xxtreme from a member here on runryder. It came to me pretty much with the airframe fully assembled. I'm trying to pull the main shaft and inspect everything but I cannot see or find the pin that's pictured in the manual.

Need help, thanks!

[rcmarty]

It's in there , hiding in the tail drive gear.

Remove the lowest bearing block

Slide motor forward to clear the pinion to the maingear.

Slide maingear down onto frame ( this little space between the gears will be your access point )

Loosen collar on mainshaft

Slide shaft down a bit ( tail drive gear stays put. )

Pin will be visible to get some long needle nose in there.

A little tricky to do the first time , after 1 time though your a pro


When re-assembling you need to get the pin centered in the shaft and lined up to the slot in the tail drive gear , one it's lined up and partially in the slot , give the mainshaft a good tug up. Should seat in good , sometimes it will even give a pop on the way in.

Martin

[rza996]

Wow! Sounds like you have to be a surgeon just to remove the main shaft. I really hope this airframe is worth all the trouble, lol

[dahld]

You must remove the lower main shaft bearing, slide the main gear down on the shaft as far as it will go (making space between the one-way bearing and the front tail drive pulley), loosen the main shaft collar, and bump the main shaft down until the pin held inside the tail drive pulley is out of its seat and clear of the pulley. Then it slides out of its hole in the main shaft.

Frankly, this is the single most PITA deal about the 700. Getting the pin in and out gets easier as you do it a few times, and you get the procedure down. But the first time you do it almost makes you want to sell the heli

Hope this helps,

Edit: looks like rcmarty beat me to it (-: The heli is worth the trouble for sure (-:

(-: Dave

[rcmarty]

Just passing on your good how to's dave.

I remember it the first few times , made me wonder also.

Once you get some stick time in , it's all worth it.

I can pull mainshaft in about 4 mins now , includes popping all the head stuff free

After a few times messing with the pin , you'll be doing it in your sleep.

Martin

[rza996]

Thanks for the help and support. Feels nice to have people soo close to the manufacture check in on these forum often and answer questions for the new people into Mikado. I've always flown Align and now I'm switching to Mikado. I'm sure I'll have more things come up as my progression with Mikado develops.

Actually, this is what I'm dealing with next...Planning on running the Pyro 850-50L competition with the Kosmik Cool 200HV.
1. Is there any specific settings I need to do with this motor/esc combination, i.e. timing, p-gain, etc...or is just plug and play?

2. If I run 12S, I should get plenty out of this heli right? Shouldn't have the need to run 14S?

3. Where do I get the carbon plate to mount the Kosmik on?

[dahld]

@ rza996,

I see you're in Vegas. If you can, you might want to go out to the heli flying site next to Sam Boyd Stadium off Boulder Hwy., and check-out the annual Fun-Fly going on there this weekend...because...

Several Team Mikado plots are attending (including some from Germany), and they will have Logo 480 XXtreme's, 550SX's, a 690SX and a bunch of 700 XXtreme's on display and flying. You can bend their ears about the 700, and see first hand how it performs on 12S. Note a 12S powered Logo 700 has been used to win the 3D Masters / Heli Masters the past two years, so the performance on 12S is nothing to dismiss for sure.

(-: Dave

[taosgraveyard]

Originally Posted by rza996

Thanks for the help and support. Feels nice to have people soo close to the manufacture check in on these forum often and answer questions for the new people into Mikado. I've always flown Align and now I'm switching to Mikado. I'm sure I'll have more things come up as my progression with Mikado develops.

Actually, this is what I'm dealing with next...Planning on running the Pyro 850-50L competition with the Kosmik Cool 200HV.
1. Is there any specific settings I need to do with this motor/esc combination, i.e. timing, p-gain, etc...or is just plug and play?

2. If I run 12S, I should get plenty out of this heli right? Shouldn't have the need to run 14S?

3. Where do I get the carbon plate to mount the Kosmik on?

Regarding your #3

The issue with the kosmik on the ESC mounting area of the L700 is that it might not clear the canopy. It's because of the curve in the frame sides that extend above the ESC mounting plate, the kosmik is the same width as the outside measurement of the frame sides, so it t won't sit between frame sides, and won't lie flat on the ESC mounting area,

removing that curve with a dremel cut off wheel solved the clearance issue.

and once you remove that curve the kosmik has a flat surface to sit in, nice and flat and clears the canopy,

but you still have to figure out how to fasten the kosmik mounting lugs to the Heli,

So Once those curves are removed, you might as well adapt a plate to mount the kosmik on, since the lugs don't really line up well with the ESC mounting plate.

Here is a thread I did showing a clean way to mount the kosmik

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread...hlight=Diabolo

Takes a little work, but it is a nice solution, IMO...

The diabolo kosmik mount used in that thread is from peakaircraft.com

[rcmarty]

Dang it , I was just in vegas a few weeks back

No special settings to do on the kosmic really. Kontronics are real nice machines.
Asking about special settings I assume this may be your first kontronic esc.

Setup is easy :

- enter program mode and set to mode 1 ( factory reset )
- enter program mode and set to mode 4 ( heli gov mode )
- first spoolup the esc will learn the motor.

On the kosmic you will add steps to suit your needs - change bec voltage , reverse direction.

That's about it.

The typical issue for many is trying to remember how to get into prog mode (as it's been so long since it was done ) . On my logo 6003d I went about 4 years on my jive 80 , had to get instructions out again.

If this is your first kosmic , get the prog disk for it. With this device you can update the software, set the bec voltage , rotation , etc.
Another $ 130 ish , but it will do all the kontronic esc's and only 1 is needed.

I'm sure there is some posts about the cool under the logo 700 canopy (a little tight ) but there are solutions out there. On the other hand a 160hv (non cool ) version will still be enough for a 700.
I've got a goblin 770 on 14s with a kosmic 160 non cool , pulling 290a peaks without any issues so far.
Kontronics are overrated units.

The 700 flies great with 12s , but I'm considering converting to 14s myself ( i'll pull the g770 system if I decide I don't like the goblin ) and run 14s 4400 mah setup.

Running 14s on logo 700 will give a few options :

- bolt up a set of 753 blades ( will swing them in stock format )
- have extra power on tap for those with the heavy handed collective management ( -> guilty <- )

Same setup will run cooler than 12s.

If I were building another 700 today , I'd just go 14s from the get go.

Tip - Cheap 14s 550w charger is the hyperion 1420 , about $130.

Hope this helps some

Martin

[rcmarty]

I mounted a kosmic 200 on my logo 800 ( same frame width as 700 ) by putting some spacers I got from the adapters from my quad props.


One of the really nice features on the kosmic is the bec , set it to 8 volts to run your hv servos. Then add a little 2s lipo for a backup battery incase you have a main pack failure ( I unsoldered the power lead twice last year ) . On my goblin I used a switch harness that came with my 8fg radio. Small rx pack need , I used a 2s 450mah (spare 130x pack) for backup. 450mah plenty of power for 1 auto. 2s lipo fully charged is 8.4 volts so putting 8 volts to it won't overcharge it but yet maintain a safe state where the backup is there if needed.


Martin

[rza996]

Then add a little 2s lipo for a backup battery incase you have a main pack failure ( I unsoldered the power lead twice last year ) . On my goblin I used a switch harness that came with my 8fg radio. Small rx pack need , I used a 2s 450mah (spare 130x pack) for backup. 450mah plenty of power for 1 auto. 2s lipo fully charged is 8.4 volts so putting 8 volts to it won't overcharge it but yet maintain a safe state where the backup is there if needed.


Martin[/QUOTE]

Is is really that simple to do a backup with a small 2S lipo? You plug a fully charged 2S and it will maintain that voltage range you you never have to deal with it? I never really thought of it, I thought you needed some diodes so that the 8.4 volts won't try to get into the BEC?

[rcmarty]

Yeah it's that easy. There are some perks from burning the numbers off your credit card

You will be charging the 2s lipo to 8 volts though.

At 8.4v fully charged it is too much for the bec and I think it would shut it down and spit out an error in the log.

Your not going to want to 'store' a lipo fully charged as they don't like it. Having it down at the 8v mark it's like a high storage charge.

Of course your not a full capacity of the rated mah of the pack , but there is enough power in there for an auto.

Worth mentioning my startup procedure.

- plug in main pack
- then after the esc had initialized ( motor tones )
- turn on backup power
- fly
- unplug mainpack
- test to see if backup power worked right
- turn off backup to power down.

When the ESC is powered up and not to the arming state of the motor the BEC voltage is at the default 5.6v , once armed it goes to the setting.

If the backup were to be on during startup you will get an error in the log (bec overvoltage) as it will see the 8v backup instead of the 5.6v expected.

Your not going to blow the works up though ( or this would be a sob story right now ) as I've done it myself. Not sure when either. I was checking a log an I happen to notice the error log portion on the sd card , had a look and found the error. Worried , I put up a post and given what I did it was the correct error for the situation. Nice part is that it doesn't shut the system down as I flew as normal.

Of course we will make an effort not to do this on a regular basis.

Another benefit is to double check the backup pack switch is working. Myself I don't trust switches on heli's , so this is a good check to see if the switch may have gone bad.

There are other members that have found the BEC so reliable in the kosmic that after a crash didn't bother putting the backup pack into the re-built heli. I can see there point but on my big $$ heli's I'm going to stick with the backup hassle. My logo 6003d for example running a jive esc was flawless for years and hundreds of flights.


Martin

[rza996]

Just of clarify, will the BEC charge the 2S lipo and get it to 8V if the lipo is under 8V? In other words, if the lipo is under 8V, will the BEC put some voltage into the lipo if both is on?

[rcmarty]

The bec would charge the battery up. I would take the time to get the pack charged up to 8v at rest. This way the bec won't have to 'charge' it up for you therefore using up some of your bec's supply capacity.

Myself I charged up the pack so the resting voltage is at 8 volts already , then it's just up to the bec to maintain the voltage.

Martin

[rza996]

That's an awesome system. I would definitely run this type of setup all the time. A BEC as the main power source and a 2S lipo always there and one that you never have to worry about charging or forget to charge. Thanks for all the tips. Maybe I'll post a picture of my 700 when it's all done.

[rza996]

BTW, what switch are you using? Can you post a picture of your setup?

[rcmarty]

I have 2 of these setups at the moment.

The goblin has a 130x 450mah battery pack for a backup. Crimped a normal servo lead to the wires after removing the 130x connector. Switch harness is the stock futaba one that comes with the 8fg radio. I seem to recall taking out the 3rd wire. (charging input)

This isn't the grade of switch I prefer to use , just what I had on hand at the time. When I re soldered the switch I made sure to make the power connections are soldered to both sides of the terminal. (looking lengthwise it's a double pole switch )

I know it will be good for a while but your not going to see this on my heli for too long. I'll be going to the JR HD swtich. But after every flight I do the power down procedure to test the switch out.

On the logo 800 build I used a JF HD swtich , rewired it to suit. I now have 2 hd leads output ( one to rx , one to vbar ) and for the input wires I changed them to silicone 20g wires.

For the Backup pack I used 2 of the 130x packs in parallel. Totalling 2s 900 mah.

I don't need 900 mah to auto an 800 (avg 4:30 flight is about 250-300mah) but I'm liking the idea of the 2s2p battery pack. I've had some lipos failures and a few times the dead cell will still pass current. So my 'theory' is that if one cell goes bad the other cell (2p) will continue to supply voltage at the proper level.
If 1 cell were to fail on a traditional 2s1p pack the voltage would drop to 4v and chances are it won't be enough to get down with.

I think that's about all I can do to keep the system powered up. If all that stuff happens to fail only visa is going to help me

Martin

[EEngineer]

"3. Where do I get the carbon plate to mount the Kosmik on?"

It's a MiniCopter #D135.

I got mine from peakaircraft.com

Alternatively, you could fabricate an adapter plate using some 1/16" plywood....
and even laminate that between some thin CF sheet material.

FWIW