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wayneparrish · 11-02-2008, 03:52 PM

Well,I feel very stupid ,but i cooked the clutch today on my fairly new R90 !! I forgot to cut the receiver switch on !!!!!! What a dummy !!!! Oh well,better than a head on connection with the ground I guess. I shut it down pretty quickly but not before blue clutch material was everywher. Is it neccessary to flush the engine or does it usually affect the engine ? Also,what clutch would you reccomend ? I am thinking of replacing the clutch,clutch bell to make sure I didn't warp anything. How touchy is it to get these lined up again ? Thanks for the help. Wayne

Badger50 · 11-02-2008, 06:34 PM

Don't feel too bad Wayne. I guarantee most of us have done the same thing, If it were me, I would definately flush the engine. You would be amazed at where all those little particles can go. As far as the clutch and bell, I would just buy stock replacement parts. They are cheaper, and work just fine. As far as the alignment of the two, I do not use a high point balancer like some guys do, and have never had a problem on my two 50's and two 90's getting good run out. Just tighten everything evenly, and then adjust the engine position in relationship to the clutch bell like the manual says. Good luck with your rebuild.

wayneparrish · 11-02-2008, 07:08 PM

Thanks Mike,I appreciate the feedback and will open the engine and flush

wayneparrish · 11-03-2008, 09:14 PM

Mike,I got the Raptor 90 apart tonight in prep for the new parts tomorrow. That is not an easy,quick job to remove the clutch bell from a 90 ! Oh well,I got it and flushed the engine,etc. so it should be ready to go after the new parts arrive,It had torn out all of the liner material,so I will probably put the new bell in to make sure it's true. Thanks again for the reply yesterday. Wayne

wayneparrish · 11-05-2008, 09:39 PM

QUESTION ,why does the Raptor 50 clutch come complete with the liner already installed and yet the top of the line Rap 90 does not come installed ? I asked Ace today and they couldn't give me a decent answer,except that some people like to set up the clutches differently and it may cost more !!! Give me a break !

MikeSherman · 11-06-2008, 08:15 AM

"I asked Ace today and they couldn't give me a decent answer,except that some people like to set up the clutches differently and it may cost more !!! "

I would agree with Ace on this one. Personally, I set my clutch gap clearance to be +.003 to +.005 per side. Ace can't hold those tolerance with the glued-in clutch material and mass manufacturing. It is more important that the clutch fit and be a little on the loose side than if it were too tight and the customer could not even start the motor.

When they come glued in, like the case of the R50, I'll turn down half the existing liner, glue in a second and then size that to my specifications.

I've never broken a clutch shoe using my process. Personal preference, I guess.

-Mike

wayneparrish · 11-06-2008, 10:36 AM

Sounds like a very good idea,BUT,only for the ones of us that happen to have a lathe to make that modification. I have found that people tend to get bored,disgruntled,or whatever you want to call it,when they have to fight too much to get something going. I am only thinking that it would be a convenience factor for the customer.As far as holding tolerences,I really don't see a problem in holding a + or - tolerence on a simple clutch. Just my thoughts.

MikeSherman · 11-06-2008, 10:42 AM

Sure, if they could hold a tight tolerance - it would benefit the customer, no doubt!

Unfortunately, there is more to it than just holding the tolerance of the clutch. The ID of the clutch bell, the glue/epoxy thickness and the clutch material thickness all add to the overall tolerance gap. Now add runout and concentricity tolerance and you can see how quickly that gap increases.

Typically speaking, the tighter the tolerance, the higher the cost of manufacturing.

-Mike

wayneparrish · 11-06-2008, 06:08 PM

I do understand that.

Kinger · 11-09-2008, 06:25 AM

If re-lining a clutch bell, my suggestion would be to just use one thick piece of paper behind the blue liner. (A strip of paper from the R90 manual works beautifully.) Epoxy the paper to the bell and then the liner to the paper. Then wrap your clutch with two layers of electrical tape and put it in the bell. (Might want to put the start shaft through the bell and the clutch to make sure things are lined up straight.) Let dry and then pull the clutch and remove the tape (Be sure to clean any leftover residue that might be on the clutch from the electrical tape).

The clutch might be a smidge tight on that first start up so be sure to have a firm grip on the rotorhead. Within one flight though things should be seated perfectly and you won't have to worry about the clutch breaking due to the clutch to liner gap being too big.

wayneparrish · 11-09-2008, 06:22 PM

Thanks guys for the info and advice. Its flying great

Youngblood · 11-12-2008, 01:35 PM

Was the origional really loose?
You can get different thicknesses of clutch liner. 1mm and 1.5mm. You might have the smaller one that is not designed for you clutch. It won't hurt anything but causes the problems you described.. Just a thought.

11-02-2008, 03:52 PM	#1 (permalink)
wayneparrish Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: Jun 2008	90 clutch replacement Well,I feel very stupid ,but i cooked the clutch today on my fairly new R90 !! I forgot to cut the receiver switch on !!!!!! What a dummy !!!! Oh well,better than a head on connection with the ground I guess. I shut it down pretty quickly but not before blue clutch material was everywher. Is it neccessary to flush the engine or does it usually affect the engine ? Also,what clutch would you reccomend ? I am thinking of replacing the clutch,clutch bell to make sure I didn't warp anything. How touchy is it to get these lined up again ? Thanks for the help. Wayne

11-02-2008, 06:34 PM	#2 (permalink)
Badger50 Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: Oct 2007	Don't feel too bad Wayne. I guarantee most of us have done the same thing, If it were me, I would definately flush the engine. You would be amazed at where all those little particles can go. As far as the clutch and bell, I would just buy stock replacement parts. They are cheaper, and work just fine. As far as the alignment of the two, I do not use a high point balancer like some guys do, and have never had a problem on my two 50's and two 90's getting good run out. Just tighten everything evenly, and then adjust the engine position in relationship to the clutch bell like the manual says. Good luck with your rebuild. __________________ Mike: Rap-90 3D x 2, Rap-50 x 2, Fury 55, Rex-450, Hirobo Squark. *"Depression is nothing more than anger, without enthusiasm"*

11-06-2008, 08:15 AM	#6 (permalink)
MikeSherman Registered Users Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Racine, WI	"I asked Ace today and they couldn't give me a decent answer,except that some people like to set up the clutches differently and it may cost more !!! " I would agree with Ace on this one. Personally, I set my clutch gap clearance to be +.003 to +.005 per side. Ace can't hold those tolerance with the glued-in clutch material and mass manufacturing. It is more important that the clutch fit and be a little on the loose side than if it were too tight and the customer could not even start the motor. When they come glued in, like the case of the R50, I'll turn down half the existing liner, glue in a second and then size that to my specifications. I've never broken a clutch shoe using my process. Personal preference, I guess. -Mike __________________ Team QuickUK Pilot Team Heliproz

11-06-2008, 10:42 AM	#8 (permalink)
MikeSherman Registered Users Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Racine, WI	Sure, if they could hold a tight tolerance - it would benefit the customer, no doubt! Unfortunately, there is more to it than just holding the tolerance of the clutch. The ID of the clutch bell, the glue/epoxy thickness and the clutch material thickness all add to the overall tolerance gap. Now add runout and concentricity tolerance and you can see how quickly that gap increases. Typically speaking, the tighter the tolerance, the higher the cost of manufacturing. -Mike __________________ Team QuickUK Pilot Team Heliproz

11-12-2008, 01:35 PM	#12 (permalink)
Youngblood Registered Users Join Date: Sep 2006	Was the origional really loose? You can get different thicknesses of clutch liner. 1mm and 1.5mm. You might have the smaller one that is not designed for you clutch. It won't hurt anything but causes the problems you described.. Just a thought. __________________ Charles

11-02-2008, 07:08 PM	#3 (permalink)
wayneparrish Registered Users Thread Starter My HF Map location Join Date: Jun 2008	Thanks Mike,I appreciate the feedback and will open the engine and flush

11-03-2008, 09:14 PM	#4 (permalink)
wayneparrish Registered Users Thread Starter My HF Map location Join Date: Jun 2008	Mike,I got the Raptor 90 apart tonight in prep for the new parts tomorrow. That is not an easy,quick job to remove the clutch bell from a 90 ! Oh well,I got it and flushed the engine,etc. so it should be ready to go after the new parts arrive,It had torn out all of the liner material,so I will probably put the new bell in to make sure it's true. Thanks again for the reply yesterday. Wayne

11-05-2008, 09:39 PM	#5 (permalink)
wayneparrish Registered Users Thread Starter My HF Map location Join Date: Jun 2008	QUESTION ,why does the Raptor 50 clutch come complete with the liner already installed and yet the top of the line Rap 90 does not come installed ? I asked Ace today and they couldn't give me a decent answer,except that some people like to set up the clutches differently and it may cost more !!! Give me a break !

11-06-2008, 10:36 AM	#7 (permalink)
wayneparrish Registered Users Thread Starter My HF Map location Join Date: Jun 2008	Sounds like a very good idea,BUT,only for the ones of us that happen to have a lathe to make that modification. I have found that people tend to get bored,disgruntled,or whatever you want to call it,when they have to fight too much to get something going. I am only thinking that it would be a convenience factor for the customer.As far as holding tolerences,I really don't see a problem in holding a + or - tolerence on a simple clutch. Just my thoughts.

11-06-2008, 06:08 PM	#9 (permalink)
wayneparrish Registered Users Thread Starter My HF Map location Join Date: Jun 2008	I do understand that.

11-09-2008, 06:25 AM	#10 (permalink)
Kinger Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: Apr 2004	If re-lining a clutch bell, my suggestion would be to just use one thick piece of paper behind the blue liner. (A strip of paper from the R90 manual works beautifully.) Epoxy the paper to the bell and then the liner to the paper. Then wrap your clutch with two layers of electrical tape and put it in the bell. (Might want to put the start shaft through the bell and the clutch to make sure things are lined up straight.) Let dry and then pull the clutch and remove the tape (Be sure to clean any leftover residue that might be on the clutch from the electrical tape). The clutch might be a smidge tight on that first start up so be sure to have a firm grip on the rotorhead. Within one flight though things should be seated perfectly and you won't have to worry about the clutch breaking due to the clutch to liner gap being too big.

11-09-2008, 06:22 PM	#11 (permalink)
wayneparrish Registered Users Thread Starter My HF Map location Join Date: Jun 2008	Thanks guys for the info and advice. Its flying great

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