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08-04-2006, 03:31 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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Join Date: May 2006
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Futaba 9CAP for Heli
I am wondering if the 9CAP can be used with a Heli, or should I go with a 9CHP?
I am currently using a 6EXH and love it, but someone wants to make me a deal on the 9CAP. Anything I should know about the 9CAP that would help make up my mind? Are there different models of the 9CAP (different years to stay away from). or anything I should consider before going for it. TJ :glasses2:
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08-04-2006, 03:43 PM | #2 (permalink) |
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From what I remember the main difference between the 9CAP and 9CHP is that the throttle stick has a ratchet for the A and no ratchet for the H version.
Also the spring loaded switch for engine cut is on the other side. I know the ratchet is not hard to eliminate but I am not sure about the switches. Other than that the programing and capabilities are the same.
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Jeff Borowski |
08-04-2006, 03:47 PM | #3 (permalink) |
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The 9CAPs work great with helicopters. The only major difference is on the 9CAP the throttle is ratcheted and the idle-up and throttle hold switches are on opposite sides from the 9CHP. The ratchet is easily defeated and, with a little work, the switch locations can be switched as well.
Bob
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08-25-2006, 12:43 PM | #4 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Aug 2006
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Is there a menu in the 9CAP that shows how the switches are assigned and allows reassignment? |
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08-29-2006, 06:20 PM | #5 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Nov 2004
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You need to physically move the switched. It requires soldering longer wires but well worth the effort.
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08-29-2006, 06:46 PM | #6 (permalink) |
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The switches are soldered to circuit boards, its not just a matter of extending some wires, the only difference is the idle up and throttle hold are backwards the H version along with the spring loaded switch but most of us just use that for killing the engine after landing, its not worth messing with.
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08-30-2006, 08:02 PM | #7 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Nov 2004
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Well opinions vary.
I have done 3 of them and it takes about 30 min. You do have to move the whole circuit board (top two switches on each side) All I did was splice some wire right in the middle of the wire that is already there. I think it is a lot better than learning to fly helis with the switches backwards. |
09-03-2006, 03:34 AM | #8 (permalink) |
Join Date: Sep 2006
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i have a 9 CAP super with campac
flying with my heli...i wouldnt dare mess with my 400 dollar radio haha=) |
09-03-2006, 08:39 AM | #9 (permalink) |
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I have moved switches on radios. It is not a big deal. Some desoldering braid, small soldering iron, solder is all that is needed.
David |
09-21-2006, 10:01 AM | #10 (permalink) |
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I'm new to this forum so first I'd like to say hi to everyone and also I'd like to use this thread to ask a related question sisnce I can see there are few of you that modified the 9caps to 9chps, I already swapped the top 4 swithches, first I did it just re soldering the conectors onthe PCB's but I wasnt happy about that since the pcb's then are looking on the opposite sides (whoever fidgeted with this probably knows what I'm talking about) so I undid that and basically re soldered the switches on the opposites pcb's.
Now my question is, Is there any way to change the default program to be able to assign iddle up and the other features to the chps switches since the default for the caps is different. (Did I explain myself or just pushed you to commit suicide???? ) Thanks for any input, Fernando
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09-21-2006, 11:00 AM | #11 (permalink) |
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Thats precisely why most people just extend the wires. On the non super you're out of luck, on the 9caps then yes, sort of. You can change the hold switch under the SW SELECT menu, the problem is you have to assign idle up to a 3 position switch and without access to the service menu you cant change that settting so the only choices you are going to get are what is now a 2 position switch and switch c, the large 3 pos switch on the front right of the radio.
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09-21-2006, 11:16 AM | #12 (permalink) |
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Has anyone tried this????
http://home.socal.rr.com/hotweb/futabaserv/
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09-21-2006, 11:24 AM | #13 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
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09-21-2006, 01:29 PM | #14 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
Thanks to all for the input
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10-15-2006, 10:41 AM | #15 (permalink) |
Join Date: Sep 2006
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This is an excellent thread. I have a 9CAP I got off e-bay for $150 and flattened the throttle ratchet for heli use. The switches weren't any big thing, but my G3 has the idle-up switch in a diferent position, so to foster a positive habit-transfer I think I'll swap the switches and solder extentions to the wires. That will solve all my problems, and allow me to keep a three position idle-up switch. I have 100-85-80-85-100 on idle1 and 100 straight across on idle2, for later on when I get into real 3D.
Thanks for the good info. |
10-15-2006, 02:07 PM | #16 (permalink) |
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What are you planning on flying with a 100 flat throttle curve? A Trex or something?
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10-15-2006, 02:29 PM | #17 (permalink) |
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I would guess he is using some type of Rev limiter. Lot of pilots set up a 100% throttle curve across the board. Then they let the Rev limiter control the rpm.
The Rev Max, new Rev Loc, and the other new governor all have a rev limiter function. David |
10-16-2006, 05:46 PM | #18 (permalink) |
Join Date: Sep 2006
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Yep, a trex. To date I've only used Idle 1.
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11-02-2006, 04:09 PM | #19 (permalink) |
Join Date: Jun 2006
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Ok... for us paranoid.. Anybody got some pictures of the how to do the switch swap?
I'm no virgin with a soldering iron but i don't want to explain to my wife that i need to buy a 14mz because i broke my 9c :?. ~Brian |
11-03-2006, 05:37 AM | #20 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Nov 2004
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The switches are on a circuit board. I just cut all the wires to the circuit board one at a time in the midde and added enough wire to move both switches, I was chicken to remove a switch from the board. The only thing is the outside label on the radio will be wrong but that is no big deal.
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