Brushless Nano Cpx. Post your setup and discussion thread.

[daveapplemotors]

I like it. I like it a lot.

News flash:
Dylan says there is a new motor out that is a little bit larger.

Servo mounts that work with BL motors, rear frame stronger at the top corners, stronger in front where we have to cut out so much of the stock frame, and I like the mcpx skid holes.

Perhaps someone can design 4-bolt servo mounts that add strength to the frame when the servos are secured.

[Bhujang]

Looks good! What does it weigh in at?

[Yannicflight]

Thanks for the feedback!

The weight of the frame is around 1 gram now.
Adding the anti rotation bracket will add around 0.2 Grams.
Its a good idea to make the servo attachment 4-bolt instead of 2,
it will add some torsion stiffness to the frame at these points.

[wsntme]

Awesome work on the frame!
I think I'm going to need one of those! When are they going on sale?

Originally Posted by Yannicflight

Thanks for the feedback!

The weight of the frame is around 1 gram now.
Adding the anti rotation bracket will add around 0.2 Grams.
Its a good idea to make the servo attachment 4-bolt instead of 2,
it will add some torsion stiffness to the frame at these points.

[Fly For Fun]

Does anyone know if/where I can buy replacement components for the XP-3A esc? I smoked a couple of the chips. I think they're FETs but i'm not certain. There's six of them all next to each other.

[GoatRider]

Here's one place:

http://www.megasmicros.com/category_s/1825.htm

He can fix it for you too.

[Yannicflight]

Iam back home

This means that I now have some time to build,test and modify some last small things to the CPX frame.



This is how the frame looks like now including the anti rotation bracket.



The weight is quite ok



The servo`s are attached using 3 screws, 4 was not possible because of the brushless motor.
But 3 screws and a pin will add enough torsion stiffness i think.



Test fitting started!
If everything works out well the frame will be ready around the 25th of Dec

[TdB]

Very nice design! Do you plan on selling it?

[Bhujang]

At that weight count me in when your selling them

[daveapplemotors]

I have 3 dbl bl nanos. I like your frame. Sell me some when you get going, please.

[Yannicflight]

They will be for sale after everything is tested and works out well.

Anymore idea`s / Improvements for this frame ?

Cheers

[fightingmosquitoes]

Looks great! I don't see canopy pins?

Make sure the upper tail boom frame matches the stock one exactly. Many after market swashes use a rear anti-rotation pin and a rear guide which attaches to the frame. That mounting point has to be the same.

Since it's 3D printed you could probably make two frame variations. One with a side ant-rotation bracket, and one with a rear anti-rotation bracket. Or both (and just cut the unused bracket off).

The anti-rotation bracket slot needs to be super smooth. Is the printed surface going to be OK for this?

[daveapplemotors]

Will we be gluing the motor into the frame with CA? Or is there enough 'meat' on the plasitc below to use a set-screw or two?

Yes, canopy pins or perhaps a set up like MH's which uses replaceable CF pins.

TWO AR guides would be slick. Good thinking fightingmosquitoes.

I always cut the AR guide off in favor of a rear AR guide. Turnabout is fair play. The side AR guys would have to cut one off if you built both Or as FM suggests , you could put a mounting spot on the rear to accept another company's bolt-on rear AR guide. Maybe provisions to bolt to another company's boom support, too...

Is there going to be enough flexibility in an AR guide to be able to remove the swash and /or mainshaft? Since I glue the collars onto my mainshafts it is necessary to be able to flex the AR guide for swash removal.

I break a stock nano frame best at the upper rear corners. Is this frame beefier there?

Perhaps a hole for a small set-screw in the skid post receivers? I like that on my MH frames.

[Yannicflight]

Thanks for all the idea`s

After test fitting the electronics yesterday I found that some holes and dimensions needed small adjustments to make them fit perfect.
I also made the canopy pins and a little bit bigger and stronger AR-guide.
The swash plate AR pin slides perfectly in the guide after sanding it just a little bit with some P800 sandpaper.
This makes the surface of the 3D printed material super smooth.

In the meant time I`ve also ordered the Microheli swashplate, I need it to test fit it on the frame and measure the dimensions for a rear AR-guide.
This Rear AR-guide frame will be a separate one (2nd version) so no cutting is needed.

For the motor attachment,
I tried to fix the motor with a screw but this does not work properly, It stresses the frame allot on a very critical part.
Using a small drop of CA will probably be the best and lightest method.

The upper corners of this frame are stronger then the original one`s.
The material used is also stronger then the stock used ABS

Some pictures of the modified version wich should be flight ready after printing:

[daveapplemotors]

This is GOOD.

[RoboHeli]

What's the best way to adjust the mesh with a HP03sp motor? I installed a 13500kv today but the gear mesh seems really tight compared to my old brushed motor. Do I try to remove material from the frame to slide the motor forward a little? Do I try to mod the motor itself? What's the best recommended procedure?

[Bhujang]

Originally Posted by Yannicflight

They will be for sale after everything is tested and works out well.

Anymore idea`s / Improvements for this frame ?

Cheers

Rear AR guide both (side one as well) is also good as i run both for extra stability

[Bhujang]

How do the push fit bearings sit? They will need to be nice n tight. I find the stock canopy they are a bit loose.

[RoboHeli]

Originally Posted by MrRoboHeli

What's the best way to adjust the mesh with a HP03sp motor? I installed a 13500kv today but the gear mesh seems really tight compared to my old brushed motor. Do I try to remove material from the frame to slide the motor forward a little? Do I try to mod the motor itself? What's the best recommended procedure?

Just a quick follow-up. I fixed the problem with a new frame. Now the mesh feels great and the heli flies very well! This is a 'mild' BL kit with

- oversky HP03sp motor 13500kv
- xp3a Esc flashed with 9.4v bl code

and the pjacq frame mounts.

I'm running at 80% fixed throttle with 80% blade pitch travel. I'm getting an easy 4 minutes on my Glacier 160mAh batteries so far just flying around indoors (with pitch pumps but no acrobatics). Haven't flown longer than that because the batteries are new and I don't want to push them too hard for the first half dozen cycles.

The only issue I have is that on heavy pitch pumps, the tail doesn't hold and it rotates 10-15 degrees. I'm going to try a 42mm tail blade and if that doesn't work I'll put on a mCPX tail boom. If THOSE don't help, someone said to try a 7mm motor.

[Yannicflight]

Test flights are made!

The frame works out really well.
Even after some crashes and a mid-air with another N-CPX during a flip there was no damage to the frame at all

Some pictures:










Everything fits perfectly now.
I had to clean the holes for the tail boom and landing gear a little because there was still some 3D print powder inside.
The frame is available for sale on shapeways through the following link:
http://www.shapeways.com/shops/F3PDrives

Different versions including the rear AR guide and maybe some other features will follow up as soon as I receive the Microheli Swash plate.
If there are some more idea`s for new features please let me know.

Yannic.