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Old 11-25-2007, 05:47 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by LITHIUMSTATIC View Post
When I recover from my 6003D crash I think I will order a 5003D. It May be a few months but man those are sweet on 6s. Any Rummer was here a couple of months ago with his and that thing rocked big time!
See, that's my dilemma. The 500 is so awesome, could the 600 be much better?
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Old 11-25-2007, 06:11 PM   #42 (permalink)
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See, that's my dilemma. The 500 is so awesome, could the 600 be much better?
I don't think one is better than the other with the right setup..... just different.
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Old 11-25-2007, 06:59 PM   #43 (permalink)
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After I'm done with this I'll probably convert it to Vbar in about 6 months but will enjoy it fully in the meantime.

The motor should be here on Monday and the tail servo (Futaba BLS251) will most likely be here Tuesday. Also, I ordered some yellow skid nuts to dress up the landing gear along with other misc. items. The ESC, battery, cyclic servos will be ordered shortly.

http://www.espritmodel.com/index.asp...OD&ProdID=5503

This will look good with my yellow K&B tail blades. Now I just need to start thinking about a paint scheme. It looks like a lot of canopies are being painted out in in florescent green, orange, and yellow. I even sent an email to Dave Yost (http://www.dydheli.com/canopies.htm) about a custom job on FG and he mentioned February at the earliest.
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Old 11-25-2007, 08:04 PM   #44 (permalink)
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The motor should be here on Monday
Which motor?
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Old 11-25-2007, 08:38 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Which motor?
Hacker A40-10L-8 (1100KV) with 16T or 15T on mod 0.7
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Old 11-25-2007, 08:58 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Don't bother with 15tooth on that motor Bruce, all imho of course. 16 tooth will be great at 75% goverened.
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Old 11-25-2007, 09:34 PM   #47 (permalink)
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I was planning on starting with the 16T and figured 75-85% should give enough room for the governor to do its magic. My guess is the first week will be spent playing with different settings. The 17T is being sent back since I was worried about the motor running too hot and with unnecessary HS.
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Old 11-26-2007, 03:16 PM   #48 (permalink)
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OK, then I think I go for the 55-10-32 on the 500. I can use it on a 600 later... The 55 will probably work good on a 500 here in Norway. In the winter it's really cold, but in the summer it can be very hot! What do you think? Should I go for the 80-6-18? If so - why? Or will a 55-10-32 work here in Norway?
Anyone? You other guys can answer to. In the winter here in Norway it can be about 5-20 Celsius. In the summer it can be 15-35 Celsius. 35 at the most. 40 in the sun.
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Old 11-27-2007, 01:30 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Mine arrived today!!!
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Old 11-27-2007, 02:19 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Mine arrived today!!!
Congratulations! Be ready for a fun build.
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Old 11-27-2007, 02:27 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Question for others... How do you get the tail servo in when the frames are already assembled?

I'm trying to fit my BLS251 and its just too tight of a fit when trying to bring it through the frame. The servo width is fine when its flat but with the servo wire hanging out the bottom of the case I can't tilt it enough. I'm tempted to make a small notch in the frame for the wire but will wait until I hear from others or come up with another solution. When I get home I can post pictures of whats happening.

BTW - I finished the build last night and will post all my steps and process later on.
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Old 11-27-2007, 02:36 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Mine went (back) in using the wiggle, push, and cuss method

Nothing specific, just trying this and that. Of course, it was a different servo. I'd put mine in with the output arm forward, realized later it likely should be backward, fiddled it around, then realized my tail control arm was too long to do it back, so fiddle it around forwards again, finding that it worked fine that way anyway.

John
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Old 11-27-2007, 02:58 PM   #53 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by th3tick View Post
Mine went (back) in using the wiggle, push, and cuss method

Nothing specific, just trying this and that. Of course, it was a different servo. I'd put mine in with the output arm forward, realized later it likely should be backward, fiddled it around, then realized my tail control arm was too long to do it back, so fiddle it around forwards again, finding that it worked fine that way anyway.

John
Which servo are you using?

I still haven't glued my tail control rod since I wanted to wait until everything was mounted before locking that down.
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Old 11-27-2007, 03:08 PM   #54 (permalink)
 

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You didn't read the note? It is easier to install the sensor, tail servo, and elevator servo (pre-centered with arm and link installed) in the left frame half, before putting the 2 halves together.

Of course I learned the hard way.
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Old 11-27-2007, 03:27 PM   #55 (permalink)
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You didn't read the note? It is easier to install the sensor, tail servo, and elevator servo (pre-centered with arm and link installed) in the left frame half, before putting the 2 halves together.

Of course I learned the hard way.
I just looked again at the problem I'm having and it would not be solved by pre-installing before closing the frames. It has to do with the servo wire coming out of the case. On the BLS251, the wire is in a thicker rubber grommet than normal (better protection) and can't be squeezed as much as other servos to get the required tilt.
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Old 11-27-2007, 03:28 PM   #56 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RJohn View Post
You didn't read the note? It is easier to install the sensor, tail servo, and elevator servo (pre-centered with arm and link installed) in the left frame half, before putting the 2 halves together.

Of course I learned the hard way.
See, I did just that - installed it first. Sized the arm, then realized it might be the wrong way 'round. The instructions really don't show which way it should go. So even reading the note didn't save me!

I've got the S9256 on the tail.

John
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Old 11-27-2007, 03:30 PM   #57 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceW View Post
I just looked again at the problem I'm having and it would not be solved by pre-installing before closing the frames. It has to do with the servo wire coming out of the case. On the BLS251, the wire is in a thicker rubber grommet than normal (better protection) and can't be squeezed as much as other servos to get the required tilt.
I;m sure if you try more angles and go in from middle you can get it with abit of force and still not wreck anything.
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Old 11-27-2007, 04:08 PM   #58 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by th3tick View Post
See, I did just that - installed it first. Sized the arm, then realized it might be the wrong way 'round. The instructions really don't show which way it should go. So even reading the note didn't save me!

I've got the S9256 on the tail.

John
John can you explain the right direction? I have mine even in the box but i'm curious about the tail servo.

P.S. I have the setup like your 5003D i will use 1910H with CC85HV 9451s s9256 and v-stabi how is flying yours?
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Old 11-27-2007, 04:51 PM   #59 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by uragano47812 View Post
John can you explain the right direction? I have mine even in the box but i'm curious about the tail servo.

P.S. I have the setup like your 5003D i will use 1910H with CC85HV 9451s s9256 and v-stabi how is flying yours?
I believe "right" is with the output shaft towards the tail of the heli. I ended up leaving mine towards the nose, and it doesn't really cause problems, but I believe towards the tail is what's intended.

John
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Old 11-27-2007, 06:03 PM   #60 (permalink)
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The picture shows the shaft of the servo towards the nose but I guess the final position depends on how you setup the tail control rod.

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