X50F FBL w/engine/pipe/blades

[Rob43]

Hey guys,

I am thinking of the combo kit. I'd love to find the kit w/o engine/pipe for a bunch less, but it's now the same price as without engine/pipe.

I know the RL53 isn't popular. Is it still that bad? I can buy the combo and unload the engine/pipe, or maybe install the OS carb mod I'd heard about on the RL53 to get it to run consistently.

Has anyone seen the X50F w/o engine/pipe for less than the current Tower price of $549?

[Skidrow]

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Carbon-Blades

In stock for $480.00.

[Rob43]

Thanks. Thinking $70 difference isn't a lot for a pipe/engine. I think I will try the OS 60L carb mod and go with the combo deal.

[Vaeloron]

When I got my kit it came with the RL 56h. As I understand it none of the merchants have updated their info and they all come with the 56.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2

[Skidrow]

Originally Posted by Vaeloron

When I got my kit it came with the RL 56h. As I understand it none of the merchants have updated their info and they all come with the 56.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2

I just checked my kit and you are correct, It is the 56.

[skytrekin]

I just maidened my X50 with the 56 and muffler combo that the kit comes with. It runs great, but you should check a couple of things.

I have read that the muffler nipple comes loose. I did check mine and did need to add locktite and tighten it down. Also in your owners manual check the clearance of the "J" screw with the throttle wide open and the mixture screw flush with the body for a 1MM gap between the J screw and the low mixture being flush.

My engine the low mixture screw was in about a turn and a half from flush. I turned it out till flush and checked the 1MM gap. I did have to adjust the J screw or "hidden 3rd needle" out a little bit. This needle controls the mid range mixture. You have to remove the throttle arm, and in side that shaft is the screw you adjust.

Things that are 1MM wide to get a reference are: a credit card is about 1MM thick, a paper clip, or a zip tie. Not a small zip tie, but a regular size one. That will give you a idea how big the gap should be.

Today I ran it for the first time using the stock plug, no extra shims added, and Rotor rage 30% masters blend with a Multi-gov at 1800 rpm. It was very rich the first tank, and slowly leaned it out.

[Skidrow]

Originally Posted by skytrekin

I just maidened my X50 with the 56 and muffler combo that the kit comes with. It runs great, but you should check a couple of things.

I have read that the muffler nipple comes loose. I did check mine and did need to add locktite and tighten it down. Also in your owners manual check the clearance of the "J" screw with the throttle wide open and the mixture screw flush with the body for a 1MM gap between the J screw and the low mixture being flush.

My engine the low mixture screw was in about a turn and a half from flush. I turned it out till flush and checked the 1MM gap. I did have to adjust the J screw or "hidden 3rd needle" out a little bit. This needle controls the mid range mixture. You have to remove the throttle arm, and in side that shaft is the screw you adjust.

Things that are 1MM wide to get a reference are: a credit card is about 1MM thick, a paper clip, or a zip tie. Not a small zip tie, but a regular size one. That will give you a idea how big the gap should be.

Today I ran it for the first time using the stock plug, no extra shims added, and Rotor rage 30% masters blend with a Multi-gov at 1800 rpm. It was very rich the first tank, and slowly leaned it out.

Thanks for the info! Good to know. Did you start with the main needle at 3 turns per instructions?

[skytrekin]

I did follow the instructions and used their initial settings. I did have to adjust my low needle screw in a little for a more reliable idle after the 3rd tank, and did have to turn in the high needle some.

I did start with the 3 turns out, and low needle flush. It is a pretty rich setting here at this altitude. I did not get any surging of the gov as you normally would with a very rich setting. The tail did have the twitch as it would from a rich running engine.

I think I will go a couple more flights today slowly leaning it out and switch into idle up. The 3rd flight yesterday I had it running pretty good and flew around with the canopy on doing some gentle circuits and mild climbs.

At no time did it ever run lean or do anything I wasn't expecting. This model feels light in the air and very responsive. I want to put it on a scale to see how much it weighs, because picking up my old Raptor 30v2 and carrying the X50 they feel about the same weight. Maybe the X50 feeling lighter.

[Rob43]

Thanks guys. I pulled the trigger on the order today for the X50F with blades/engine/pipe. My plan is to fit the engine with an O.S. 60L carb to improve tunability as seveal others report this is a great solution.


If it doesn't pan out for me, I will seek a YS60sr or OS55.

[skytrekin]

The carb on the RL 56 is bolted down with 2 bolts. As far as tuneability goes, the 56 runs and tunes like any other.

The build is great, it goes together easily. And it looks good in the air.

[Rob43]

Well, I've opted to buy a YS60sr and Hatori SAB-1. Both are inbound. I plan to sell the RL56 and pipe new in box. I have the O.S. 60L carb and am going to go ahead and have the adapter mount plate mod completed so I can sell it as a package. There are several accounts of this mod and it's reported to be much more reliable. Too many reported the RL56 carb not keeping tune and going lean. Best wishes on yours! I found a bargain on a pre-owned, NIB YS 60sr, so I jumped on it.

[skytrekin]

Update:

I have flown my X50 6 flights so far. The engine has been great, no hovering going lean or any mid range lean issues. With the pipe, it seems quiet. At least quieter than a OS50 hyper with a Align pipe screaming that sound everyone knows.

I did develop a tail vibration issue where you could see the tail fin vibrating from side to side. I tried some carbon tail blades, checked the torque tube and checked the balance of the tail assy. and moved the boom supports down to the landing gear. All those did not help. I added shims to remove all grip play, yet the vibration was still there.

Not knowing what else to try, I tried a different tail hub with one set screw that holds the hub. Vibration GONE! Raptor Technique said side to side vibration is typically caused by tail blades going in and out of track. The hub had 2 set screws holding the hub in the shaft. My guess is it was tetering on those 2 setscrews.

I added a fuel filter to the exhaust pressure line and have gotten rid of the washing machine effect on the fuel in the tank. The filter must take the pulses out of the pressure going to the tank making a more even pressure. The way the vent goes, it looks like a natural thing to happen running down the back side of the tank. Also I checked the start shaft to make sure it wasn't rubbing on the crankshaft.
Mine was. After taking off about a 1/8 in from the end no more rubbing and potential vibration transfer.

It still feels light in the air, and the engine pulls like a freight train! I am guessing with the light weight and matched engine and pipe that is why the performance is so good. The stock Thunder Tiger FBL blades seem to work pretty good as does the tail blades.

So far so good, a few bumps, but trucking forward and enjoying this heli!

[Vaeloron]

I found that same tail vibe started just before I got it on the pipe but I leaned it out a hair more and the vibe disappeared.

[skytrekin]

Maybe its a resonance thing, and engine tuning. I am still a little rich on the high end. My normal gov setting is at 1800 rpm.

Its very responsive and flys really well. I am very happy with it.

[Rob43]

Thanks for sharing your tips guys.

Skytrekin - How much did you cut from the starter shaft?

[skytrekin]

about a 1/8 inch.

Might be less depending on motor. I just wanted to check mine, I was looking for causes of the tail vibe.
From the picture you can see the little circle the crankshaft caused.
I just wanted to be sure that was not going to be a factor. I trimmed it down to just leaving a little before the wear of the one way bearing. ( to not take any area away from the one way bearing )

[Rob43]

OK. Thanks. Was your kit the X50F? Is it now torque tube, or still belt tail? Which boom was included? The plain aluminum or the carbon wrapped boom?

[skytrekin]

The X50F flybarless with Redline 56 motor and pipe and torque tube. The boom is the carbon wrapped one.

[skytrekin]

Update:

So I have been having like many others the tail vibration. I have been working diligently looking for a fix. Today that day has come. And now I realize I need to go back to see what actually fixed it. Luckly it isn't much of a back track I hope.

Here is what I have done so far since building the kit all stock per the manual. These are things I have researched reading posts from others experiences and my own experiences.

I used bearing retainer on tail box bearings and main grip bearings to eliminate as much play as possible as these both had some play when assembled.

My start shaft was touching the motor that came with the kit (Redline 56) when everything is installed. I took off about 1/8 inch from the side that is closest to the engine. I checked the balance of the clutch, and fan with both magnets installed both separate and together. Added a fuel filter to the exhaust pressure line to slow down the pulses to the tank. This eliminated the "washing machine" effect on the fuel.

I lowered the boom supports to just above the landing gear and changed the boom clamp to one that fastens the other boom supports to up and down. The exhaust nipple needed locktite and tightening down.

I changed the tail hub with one that has only 1 set screw and red locktited everything there. I added 2 extra bearings to the torque tube and moved the torque tube all the way aft into the rear gears.

I modified a aluminum tail pitch bellcrank to fit so it would be stiffer than original. I tried some Mavrikk tail blades and stock plastic tail blades.

My setup is Outrage HV servos, spektrum throttle servo, CGY-750 FBL system, Thunder Power 2250mah 2S lipo and a multi-gov pro

So today I went flying with a friend and had just finished balancing the clutch fan assy and fabricating a aluminum tail pitch bell crank. In a hover with the engine still rich the vibes were not noticeable at all. When I go into a stall turn you can hear it slightly, my friend even heard it. Bring it back to a hover and you can see the bottom of the fin vibrating side to side. Not bad, but you can see it.
He suggested feeling the temp of the tail servo, not to bad, but the tail box was warm.

I could fly it like that as it wasn't bad, but I wasn't satisfied. He suggested taking the stock plastic tail blades off and trying his Rail tails. I mentioned I tried carbon blades with no change, but I put them on and like a light went off and everything was PERFECT!!!!

I could stall turn, pitch pump, anything I could to try get it to vibrate yet it was SOLID! I switched to all idle up speeds and tried again. Perfect! I had never flown in idle 2 because of the vibration. At 2000 I could easily see how rich the motor was still.

My plan is to finish tuning the motor, and start putting things back to see where the vibrations really come from.
I know its a long read, but many people have this heli and experience this. Hopefully some of these suggested fixes help someone out there.

[Rob43]

Before you spend too much more time...simply try checking those tail blades you took out for balance. It may be the Rails were a bit better. Interestingly, I checked a set of Rail 106's I bought for my 7HV, and they were off significantly. Took a rather large piece of tape to correct. I have a set of Rail 116's I now fly on the 7HV, and they are spot on.