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Old 12-20-2012, 05:46 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Default Final setup

Well, it has been a long time coming, but we're at final setup.. I'm not going to cover everything, but I will cover basics as there are videos and other setup tips for the AR7200BX that are simply great. First, though, we're going to build Diviner's swash plate leveler!



Diviner's swash leveler comes with two halves and three spacers. The spacers go in the slots cut in the halves with the long end facing inward for support.



In Diviner's thread he recommends assembling it on the main shaft with the main shaft clamping collar removes. He did so so the parts will lay flat and utilize the main shaft as an assembly jig. In my build I couldn't remove the collar because of the way I wired my servos. So, I decided there were two ways to build it. One, was just lay it on the clamp and build it as Diviner suggests or to build it on a flat piece of glass and use a spare main shaft as an alignment tool.

Above is a test fit of the parts so I could make sure assembling it this way worked.



Turned out it did work. Above shows CA on the joints of the top half. Once that CA set (I didn't use kicker, but you might want to as the fumes from CA will discolor the plastic). Once the CA cured, I flipped the leveler over removed the bottom half and put CA directly on the spacers, then reinstalled the bottom half on the main shaft. I pressed down evenly on the bottom half until the CA set and was done.

Time to see how the RCLogger2 worked for leveling the swash on a small helicopter.



Since the tool fits OVER the links you might want to...



Lightly sand the tops of the links to remove any flashing or burrs. I'm talking really, really light sanding!



Well, it looks like the tried and true method of leveling the swash works best with small helicopter.s The Aileron link was one turn too long. You have to look closely to see it in this picture. Additionally, when you adjust anything, give the tool a little press down on the links. It helps realign it in case it doesn't slide as freely as a metal tool. Note here that I had to put the helicopter on its side to get this picture.



After one turn on the aileron link, the swash is perfectly level.



Sorry for the blurry picture..one hand... Here we install the head! Use blue thread locker on the Jesus bolt.



Next we snap on the links from the grips to the swash.



Time to get out the blades and associated parts we set aside for now.



The stock Compass blades require spacers to be used. When I have to use spacers, I always start with the top spacer. I align the spacer to the hole in the blade, then slide the pair into the grip. Next, I insert the bolt all the way through the blade and out the bottom side of the grip.



Then I pick up on the blade in the grip and slide the bottom spacer in until it stops against the bolt. Then I slowly pull the bolt out while putting straight and even pressure on the bottom spacer. When the spacer slides freely, it means the bolt is out of the way. Lightly push the bolt down then move the spacer until the bolt goes through the spacer and out the bottom of the grip. This takes some practice, but once you get it, you be very quick with this step.



I then tighten the blade bolts. I usually keep them sort of tight, but not so tight that I can't easily move the blades in the grips--to start. I experiment with tightness, but I can definitely say I do not use the tap/fall test.



Repeat the above steps for the next blade and then we can set zero pitch.



I had to adjust both pitch links one turn tight to get zero pitch on both blades.



I set up my helicopter for +12



and -12 degrees collective pitch... The unit learned 6 degrees perfectly, as well. I was also able to max out cyclic ranges without binding.



The completed Compass Warp 360!!! Ready to fly.... but...



It's dark, rainy and windy!!!! And.....



Tomorrow it's supposed to be windy and snowing!!!! Why me??!!! LOL!

That's about it for the build.

Dave Ketelhut--thank you so much for thinking of me and asking me to do this build. It has been a blast!!

I want to thank Charley Stephens ALeeS RC team owner and owner of ALeeS RC for allowing me to do this for Compass-USA. Charley is the real deal!!

Mike Jankowski, you da man!!! Thank you so much for your support throughout this process. You take customer service to a level to be emulated by all.

Thanks to Bob O, Rob43, BarnStormer, and everyone who caught mistakes while I was sick. You guys rule! Rob43 PM'd me hints all the time! I truly appreciate that!

Thanks to Diviner for sending me his wonderful swash levelers.. yes, Levelers... I have another one in red with different supports that I need to ask him about!

If I've left out anyone, know that it's not intentional at all. I truly appreciate all the feedback and assistance I've had in doing this thread.

Remember... enjoy the hobby! It's all about fun! Have fun with it!

Scott

Original build thread with full discussion.
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Last edited by Bob O; 12-24-2012 at 11:47 AM.. Reason: add link
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Old 01-17-2013, 01:19 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dunkonu23 View Post
Well, it has been a long time coming, but we're at final setup.. I'm not going to cover everything, but I will cover basics as there are videos and other setup tips for the AR7200BX that are simply great. First, though, we're going to build Diviner's swash plate leveler!



Diviner's swash leveler comes with two halves and three spacers. The spacers go in the slots cut in the halves with the long end facing inward for support.



In Diviner's thread he recommends assembling it on the main shaft with the main shaft clamping collar removes. He did so so the parts will lay flat and utilize the main shaft as an assembly jig. In my build I couldn't remove the collar because of the way I wired my servos. So, I decided there were two ways to build it. One, was just lay it on the clamp and build it as Diviner suggests or to build it on a flat piece of glass and use a spare main shaft as an alignment tool.

Above is a test fit of the parts so I could make sure assembling it this way worked.



Turned out it did work. Above shows CA on the joints of the top half. Once that CA set (I didn't use kicker, but you might want to as the fumes from CA will discolor the plastic). Once the CA cured, I flipped the leveler over removed the bottom half and put CA directly on the spacers, then reinstalled the bottom half on the main shaft. I pressed down evenly on the bottom half until the CA set and was done.

Time to see how the RCLogger2 worked for leveling the swash on a small helicopter.



Since the tool fits OVER the links you might want to...



Lightly sand the tops of the links to remove any flashing or burrs. I'm talking really, really light sanding!



Well, it looks like the tried and true method of leveling the swash works best with small helicopter.s The Aileron link was one turn too long. You have to look closely to see it in this picture. Additionally, when you adjust anything, give the tool a little press down on the links. It helps realign it in case it doesn't slide as freely as a metal tool. Note here that I had to put the helicopter on its side to get this picture.



After one turn on the aileron link, the swash is perfectly level.



Sorry for the blurry picture..one hand... Here we install the head! Use blue thread locker on the Jesus bolt.



Next we snap on the links from the grips to the swash.



Time to get out the blades and associated parts we set aside for now.



The stock Compass blades require spacers to be used. When I have to use spacers, I always start with the top spacer. I align the spacer to the hole in the blade, then slide the pair into the grip. Next, I insert the bolt all the way through the blade and out the bottom side of the grip.



Then I pick up on the blade in the grip and slide the bottom spacer in until it stops against the bolt. Then I slowly pull the bolt out while putting straight and even pressure on the bottom spacer. When the spacer slides freely, it means the bolt is out of the way. Lightly push the bolt down then move the spacer until the bolt goes through the spacer and out the bottom of the grip. This takes some practice, but once you get it, you be very quick with this step.



I then tighten the blade bolts. I usually keep them sort of tight, but not so tight that I can't easily move the blades in the grips--to start. I experiment with tightness, but I can definitely say I do not use the tap/fall test.



Repeat the above steps for the next blade and then we can set zero pitch.



I had to adjust both pitch links one turn tight to get zero pitch on both blades.



I set up my helicopter for +12



and -12 degrees collective pitch... The unit learned 6 degrees perfectly, as well. I was also able to max out cyclic ranges without binding.



The completed Compass Warp 360!!! Ready to fly.... but...



It's dark, rainy and windy!!!! And.....



Tomorrow it's supposed to be windy and snowing!!!! Why me??!!! LOL!

That's about it for the build.

Dave Ketelhut--thank you so much for thinking of me and asking me to do this build. It has been a blast!!

I want to thank Charley Stephens ALeeS RC team owner and owner of ALeeS RC for allowing me to do this for Compass-USA. Charley is the real deal!!

Mike Jankowski, you da man!!! Thank you so much for your support throughout this process. You take customer service to a level to be emulated by all.

Thanks to Bob O, Rob43, BarnStormer, and everyone who caught mistakes while I was sick. You guys rule! Rob43 PM'd me hints all the time! I truly appreciate that!

Thanks to Diviner for sending me his wonderful swash levelers.. yes, Levelers... I have another one in red with different supports that I need to ask him about!

If I've left out anyone, know that it's not intentional at all. I truly appreciate all the feedback and assistance I've had in doing this thread.

Remember... enjoy the hobby! It's all about fun! Have fun with it!

Scott

Original build thread with full discussion.
Excellent thread !! May I ask where to buy the swashplate leveler of yours ?
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Old 01-18-2013, 03:05 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Excellent thread !! May I ask where to buy the swashplate leveler of yours ?
https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=480482
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Old 01-18-2013, 09:15 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Thank you
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Old 01-19-2013, 11:48 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lcc014 View Post
Excellent thread !! May I ask where to buy the swashplate leveler of yours ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coco66 View Post

If Diviner does not have more you can also order an all metal one from Nankin
http://www.nankinhobby.com/product-p/rtf-121226.htm

I have both lol
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Old 01-19-2013, 11:54 AM   #26 (permalink)
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I'm waiting for Canada Post's dog sled team to arrive with mine ... it hasn't arrived yet. It was shipped the same time as everyone else's. Typical of CBSA / Canada Post.
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Old 01-19-2013, 12:16 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by BarnStormer View Post
If Diviner does not have more you can also order an all metal one from Nankin
http://www.nankinhobby.com/product-p/rtf-121226.htm

I have both lol
Which is is better between these leveler ?
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Old 01-19-2013, 12:30 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by lcc014 View Post
Which is is better between these leveler ?

Matter of opinion. The metal one sits on the swash and the plastic one sits on the links. I sorta prefer it to sit on the swash but they both work great.


Jason
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Old 01-19-2013, 01:34 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by BarnStormer View Post
Matter of opinion. The metal one sits on the swash and the plastic one sits on the links. I sorta prefer it to sit on the swash but they both work great.


Jason
Great, thank you Jason.
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Old 01-19-2013, 01:58 PM   #30 (permalink)
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I wrote to Diviner when I first did this setup saying that I thought the swash leveler would be more accurate on the swash itself instead of the links. He agreed. I don't know if he ever made one for the swash only. One of the drawbacks to that is the height of the swash ball. Any tool has t be able to clear that. The metal tool clears the ball by default.

Scott
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Old 01-30-2013, 01:46 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Very nice build thread! Thanks for takin the time to post.
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Old 02-01-2013, 03:17 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Thanks!
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Old 02-01-2013, 03:58 PM   #33 (permalink)
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So when will your bird be maidened, dunkonu23 ?
It must be screaming for you to let it spin its wings
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Old 02-02-2013, 08:37 AM   #34 (permalink)
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I've flown it once... the weather just hasn't been too cooperative here in Michigan. It was very solid in the air, fast and precise. I need to track the blades as they are ever so slightly out, but other than that, it flew great!

We had two days last week where I thought I would be able to fly both the Warp and my Rush 750 w/Volrtex, but the first day was foggy as all get out and the second day it was raining. Now, it's snowing and cold.

Scott
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Old 02-08-2013, 06:42 AM   #35 (permalink)
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Meticulous build! Well done sir! . Thanks for sharing!
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Old 02-08-2013, 01:08 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Nice!!!
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Old 02-08-2013, 01:16 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Nice!!!
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Old 02-08-2013, 06:16 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Thanks, guys! It was fun to do. It's even better knowing it is appreciated!

Scott
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Old 02-11-2013, 09:45 AM   #39 (permalink)
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This thread has been incredibly useful during my Warp build.

I have been building R/C helicopters since 1976, and still learned a great deal here!

Great job, Scott!
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Old 02-12-2013, 02:46 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ah Clem View Post
This thread has been incredibly useful during my Warp build.

I have been building R/C helicopters since 1976, and still learned a great deal here!

Great job, Scott!
Coming from you, my friend, all I can say is thank you. You made my day.

Scott
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