Wife Surprised me and bought me a Dominator 6s Supercombo With Gpro HELP

[lycokayaker]

Hey Gang


I am really new to the hobby bought a Align Trex 450 SA with a DX6i 3 weeks ago of craigslist and found out the hard way parts are hard to come by. My wife wanted to cheer me up and bought me a Trex 450 Dominator Super Combo with Gpro. I have never built a heli let alone done any real successful sport flying can hover no problem. So go ahead and lay on the advice for building parts setting etc.......


I am looking at the Turnigy a spec 1550 battery from -hobbyking

Locally I can source the receiver and satellite for 99 dollars a 8000 series specktrum. Knowing that I have a DX6i should I maintain this radio and just buy the receiver or should I consider an new radio like a Taranis.


Thanks for all of the advice and help.....


Bill

[RC/DC_5000]

The Nanotech 1550 work awesome for about two months. I mean they are downright insanely powerful. Then they go flat and are totally worthless. IMO, you're better off to buy the Pulse or Align batteries. You'll get a much longer life out of them.

There's many, many 450L build videos on Youtube. As well as Gpro tutorials. Good luck and take your time. Be patient to build it right.

Spool it up without the main blades on... and you can test the tail functions on the ground. Rudder control, reversals and you can also check the swashplate corrections. This is my best advice I could ever offer. It will save your helicopter and your appendages.

[lycokayaker]

Cool thanks.

Puls packs scary me as I saw you have to solder on the connection. Never soldered anything yet

Plan on using the braided stuff to cover the wires and all. YouTube I am sure will be my best friend



At some point I want to be able to have telemetry and control of the head speed I know the dx6i doesn't do telemetry but can it control headspeed on gpro?

Anyone using a taranis on a Dom?

[macdad]

Your wife is a keeper!

GensAce batteries have been good to me. I agree with the above comments. Watch the setup videos. Double check swash and tail movement on the bench before flying the first time. Also, make sure you have your gear mesh pretty good. This will potentially save you from headaches on the first flight or two.

If you spool up the heli with tail blades only, you better hold on to it. It will spin out in a hurry and could really hurt you. I have always removed all blades if I was spinning it up to test things like motor direction, etc.

Personally, I have a Taranis and love it. If you are new to the hobby, though, I would just stick with the DX6i. It should do fine for what you are going to be doing. You want to make sure you are gonna stay with the hobby for a while before you start buying all kinds of upgrades and stuff

[19trax95]

I did a decent amount of research on this heli before i decided on an X3, but i would just keep everything that came in the combo. The gpro is supposed to be decent, and the rest of the electronics are alright as well.

I think a ar8000 will be bit big to neatly fir on this heli. I would just run spektrum satellites. You can get those new for like $48 i think, or pick some up used on here for around $28 depending on seller. Thats what most guys do for the 450 size helis is use sat receivers.

I use and really like glacier batteries from buddyrc. They are priced good and you can get them with a few different plug choices. I gave up on hobbyking batteries a while ago. Now i will only buy glacier or pulse

[RC/DC_5000]

No. The helicopter can and should be spun up with the main blades removed and the tail blades on.

Thats the point of leaving the tail blades on... to check and see if the tail will lock and if the tail gyro is setup correctly. If yours spun out of control.. that means you had something reversed and a setup error. Which is the point of not having the main blades on.

You should be able to spin up the heli.... the tail should lock.. and you can piro the helicopter left and right while it sits on the ground. Its a functions test of the tail without the risk of leaving the ground.

The tail gyro doesn't care if there are main blades or not. It will lock and perform the same with or without main blades. If its setup correctly. Which is the point of the test.

[lycokayaker]

Yes Wife is a keeper!

awesome guys.... Keep it coming....

I hope to stick with the hobby. I am a stay at home father and when my kids sleep I needed something to do so I decided on this. I have a nice big stretch of property I can fly on and my neighbors are at work when I would be playing

I thought that I would need a receiver and a satellite to plug into the Gpro system? I can just skip the receiver and plug satellites into the Gpro and bind to the Gpro?

[Atomic Skull]

Originally Posted by RC/DC_5000

The Nanotech 1550 work awesome for about two months. I mean they are downright insanely powerful. Then they go flat and are totally worthless. IMO, you're better off to buy the Pulse or Align batteries. You'll get a much longer life out of them.

There's many, many 450L build videos on Youtube. As well as Gpro tutorials. Good luck and take your time. Be patient to build it right.

Spool it up without the main blades on... and you can test the tail functions on the ground. Rudder control, reversals and you can also check the swashplate corrections. This is my best advice I could ever offer. It will save your helicopter and your appendages.

These are inexpensive and work good:

https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...dProduct=26517

The question is will they fit. They are shorter and fatter than the 3S 2200 batteries most 450's are designed for. They fit under the canopy of a 450SE V2 and 450 Sport but on the 450 Pro you need to modify the canopy mounting holes. I'm not sure if these will fit inside the frame on the 450L, pity if they won't because they are good batteries and cheap as beans.

Originally Posted by RC/DC_5000

You should be able to spin up the heli.... the tail should lock.. and you can piro the helicopter left and right while it sits on the ground. Its a functions test of the tail without the risk of leaving the ground.

The tail gyro doesn't care if there are main blades or not. It will lock and perform the same with or without main blades. If its setup correctly. Which is the point of the test.

Watching a 700 spin out of control like a blur on the ground then tip over and eat itself will change your mind about the safety of that method very quickly.

[gimbleguy]

Dimensions

http://www.gensace.de/gens-ace-1400m...tery-pack.html

T Rex 450L Dominator 6S mit Gens ACE 1400 mah Lipo (5 min 25 sec)

[Atomic Skull]

Yeah I did some research and it seems you need special "450 batteries" to fit 6S in the 450L. I guess I'll be sticking with my 6S converted 450 Sport because I have a bunch of those batteries already. The short fat 1300 6S actually fit in the Sport better than the standard 3s. They don't hang off the end of the battery tray like the 3S do and the CG is perfect.

[gimbleguy]

It depends, as for the sport, some people are using heavy tail servos &/ tail units, so a longer lipo might provide them better CG

[RC/DC_5000]

Originally Posted by Atomic Skull

Watching a 700 spin out of control like a blur on the ground then tip over and eat itself will change your mind about the safety of that method very quickly.

What are you talking about? Do I need to make a Youtube video of me spinning up my 600L without main blades to show you how the tail locks and it doesn't spin around. I'll have a cup of coffee and a sandwich and move the rudder around while I do it. Not only have I spun the 600 without main blades and with tail blades- I've switched on and off Bailout mode. Power on.. power off.... hundreds, perhaps thousands of times. Never once did anything happen. I've done this for about three years of building helicopters.

If you don't trust your helicopter to spin up on the ground without main blades.... I'm in awe how you expect to trust it to spin up with main blades.

The tail gyro measures a change in angular velocity. It works with or without the main blades, because all it does is measure whats changed. It works when you just pick the helicopter up. It certainly doesn't need the main blades to work. If your tail spins around... that means something was reversed or screwed up. Better to functions check it without main blade lift.... says common sense.

So you're saying its "safer" to have a 700 spin around out of control with main blades on? You're a bit short of understanding how it works and why it did what it did.

[Atomic Skull]

Originally Posted by RC/DC_5000

So you're saying its "safer" to have a 700 spin around out of control with main blades on? You're a bit short of understanding how it works and why it did what it did.

Spinning it up at all if your not sure about the tail direction is a bad idea no matter what. There are two different "safe" ways to test tail direction. By the direction the blades move when you move the tail left and right on the bench by hand. Or by spinning it up with around 1/8'th throttle (just enough for the tail to blow a little bit but not enough to be dangerous) and carefully moving the tail to see how it reacts.

But just slapping it down and spinning it up to full speed if you are not absolutely sure beyond any doubt that the tail servo direction is set right is a potential disaster.

[RC/DC_5000]

So what are you talking about? In your example... you said you you watched your 700 destroy itself. So whatever method you did... it failed you right? Or you just made that up and didn't share any actual experience?

You incorrectly assumed the lack of main blades had anything to do with the tail spinning around. PS. Spinning around is a lot more dangerous with main blades on. There is more anti torque force and if the skids get stuck... the helicopter will tip and explode. BECAUSE the main blades are on. Your example, was also incorrect. Its basically impossible for the main bladeless heli to tip... and even if it does.. theres no blades to hit the ground. And the record skips- thats why you remove them.

You can say check the tail direction all day. But you never really know for sure until you try it... do you. Thats why you check the tail functions without the main blades on. You can check it all day on the bench... but you never actually know for sure until you try it. Especially for someone who's never done this before.

This is not a safety issue. Quite the opposite. You're just back peddling after making a statement when you didn't understand the cause and effect of what happened and why. I'll agree with your 1/8 throttle slow start. But this has nothing to do with the main blades being removed. Its much safer and a better idea to remove them.

[macdad]

I have always checked my tail direction and correction directions without spinning up the heli. All you have to do is move the rudder stick and see which way it moves. Then, move the tail and make sure the blades move the correct direction to counteract. This is all done without spinning the main rotor/motor.

I have done this for every setup. I do the same thing to test that the swash is correcting properly. It works every time. I have never had to spin it up to make sure it was correcting properly. I have never set one up incorrectly. I can attribute it to due diligence on setup, not luck.

To the OP, if you spin it with blades on, even tail blades, make sure it is clear of everything (including your fingers). Not sure, but I think you would end up with stitches from a tail blade strike to a finger. You need to respect it like you would any major power tool. That was my only point.

Again, personally feel that my method and method suggested by Atomic Skull is safer and more than sufficient. You should know the commanded directions by looking at the model not leaving it to chance on a spool up. With or without main blades.

[RC/DC_5000]

You've never had to spin it up to make sure it's spinning correctly... except the first time you flew it.

This is not that hard to understand. You checked it on the ground, but people make mistakes and misread things. You didn't know that the correction directions actually worked until you flew it.

Its not as simple as... oh, I checked it. If you take the main blades off... its a way to actually "test" it... not "check" it.... and still be safer than having it tip over or be out of control with main blades that wreck havoc.

The Wright brothers checked their airplane several times... but they didn't know it flew until they tested it. Your method of testing the tail is not even a method. You're not testing anything. You're checking it, assuming it works... and leaving it all to chance on your first flight.

Removing the main blades is called mitigating risks. Google it.

[macdad]

Skip to 45 seconds into this video. It is one of many on youtube.

HC3sX - Rudder and Gyro Direction Check (3 min 34 sec)

Not gonna argue about it. Everyone can choose their own method. This is mine and it works flawlessly.

[RC/DC_5000]

The disagreement came where Atomic Skull said the helicopter would spin around and destroy itself. As if the main blades had anything to do with it. They don't.

Its a major no duh that we check the correction directions visually... like in your video. I guess we aren't all as perfect as you Macdad, some people get it confused at least once in their lifetime. This is called an accident or mistake.

Of course I check it visually. But before I actually fly it with main blades on... I TEST it with main blades off. Thus mitigating risks.

You both implied its safer to just fly it right off the bat with main blades on. You look at the directions... and then you go right to flying it. Your welcome to if you wish, you're right. But don't say that someone who first tests it without main blades has a less desirable approach. Which is exactly what you did.

Mostly because it makes no sense and makes you sound like you don't know what you're talking about.

[macdad]

Originally Posted by RC/DC_5000

...
Spool it up without the main blades on... and you can test the tail functions on the ground. Rudder control, reversals and you can also check the swashplate corrections. This is my best advice I could ever offer. It will save your helicopter and your appendages.

At first, this is all you said. Spool it up without main blades to check corrections. Never said anything about visually checking it...

Originally Posted by RC/DC_5000

...

Of course I check it visually. But before I actually fly it with main blades on... I TEST it with main blades off. Thus mitigating risks.

...

You may have implied this, but a beginner may not pick that up.

Originally Posted by RC/DC_5000

...

Its a major no duh that we check the correction directions visually... like in your video. I guess we aren't all as perfect as you Macdad, some people get it confused at least once in their lifetime. This is called an accident or mistake
....
Mostly because it makes no sense and makes you sound like you don't know what you're talking about.

There really is no need for personal attacks. Never implied that I was perfect, simply that I have not had a problem with this method even once. What I was also getting at was that you have to be extra diligent in this hobby. Need to keep the mistakes at a minimum and take extra caution just in case. If spooling up without mains the first time mitigates risk, then by all means.

This is a hobby and really not worth getting all bent out of shape and attacking others over. I will not be posting anything further on this thread.

[jbobb1]

Originally Posted by RC/DC_5000

I guess we aren't all as perfect as you Macdad, some people get it confused at least once in their lifetime. This is called an accident or mistake

Now that's harsh!