YS 56SR bogging down "too much" in V2 50

[eluminous]

Hi all,

I have been working really hard to get my YS 56 to perform through many hours of research, running and tuning. The engine was run rich for a good 15 tanks of fuel but is still really fiddly on the mid needle. The engine has roughly 50 flights under it's belt and will always 'bog down' under higher cyclic moves.

I have the pitch set at +/-13 degrees and cyclic on about 9.5 degrees of movement. Full pitch climb outs hold quite well as I can hear the engine load up but only drop slightly in revs. As the heli continues to climb, I can hear the "engine tune" move into a "more powerful note" and slightly increase back up to it's unloaded flying rev's. However, when I combine collective and cyclic in flips and tic tocs the engine bogs down and doesn't seems to have the power to continue. Especially after 3 or 4 flip or tic toc repeats. I have also also converted the heli to flybarless with an RJX 50 head.

My needle settings have been slowly decreased down to around 1 full turn (sometimes maybe one or two clicks under a full turn) on the high, and between 1 1/4 to 1 3/8ths of a turn on the mid. The idle is set nicely to just under a half turn (just a tad under the factory default setting). Now I have done a lot of reading on how YS motors like to have the high needle pretty much 'set and forget' while using the mid needle as the 'fine tuning' needle. This doesn't work for me and I'll explain why...

When I try to richen the high needle a little so I can bring the mid needle down a couple of clicks, the engine will always starve and die on spool up. As I have read, the two needle do seem to influence each other somewhat. On the the hand if I try to open the mid a little and subsequently close the high needle a click or two, the mid range then 'loads up' and sputter a lot while spooling up. Often this will cause the engine to die also if I don't pump the throttle a little. This does not give me a great amount of confidence in the engine if I ever had to idle up again in the middle of practicing auto's.

I should add that my mid needle seems highly sensitive to how the engine responds during spool up.

Also, I would like to know if anyone has ever had their high needle down to 3/4 or 5/8 of a turn to enable them to get the mid needle right? To me it seems like the mid is too lean and the high a little rich but I am just a hair under one full turn on the high. Could I also get some feedback as to realistically how hot the backplate should feel after landing from full throttle on a 25-30 degree day?

I hope this is enough information for someone to read and understand.

I purchased this engine having been told that the YS would have gobs of power for the TZ V2 50, but I am yet to experience this. The OS 55 HZ seems to out-do it by a mile in my Trex 600.

Anyway, I am quite lost and frustrated as to where to go from here so suggestions and experienced thoughts would be highly appreciated.

Steve

[rcjames]

Originally Posted by eluminous

Hi all,

I have been working really hard to get my YS 56 to perform through many hours of research, running and tuning. The engine was run rich for a good 15 tanks of fuel but is still really fiddly on the mid needle. The engine has roughly 50 flights under it's belt and will always 'bog down' under higher cyclic moves.

I have the pitch set at +/-13 degrees and cyclic on about 9.5 degrees of movement. Full pitch climb outs hold quite well as I can hear the engine load up but only drop slightly in revs. As the heli continues to climb, I can hear the "engine tune" move into a "more powerful note" and slightly increase back up to it's unloaded flying rev's. However, when I combine collective and cyclic in flips and tic tocs the engine bogs down and doesn't seems to have the power to continue. Especially after 3 or 4 flip or tic toc repeats. I have also also converted the heli to flybarless with an RJX 50 head.

My needle settings have been slowly decreased down to around 1 full turn (sometimes maybe one or two clicks under a full turn) on the high, and between 1 1/4 to 1 3/8ths of a turn on the mid. The idle is set nicely to just under a half turn (just a tad under the factory default setting). Now I have done a lot of reading on how YS motors like to have the high needle pretty much 'set and forget' while using the mid needle as the 'fine tuning' needle. This doesn't work for me and I'll explain why...

When I try to richen the high needle a little so I can bring the mid needle down a couple of clicks, the engine will always starve and die on spool up. As I have read, the two needle do seem to influence each other somewhat. On the the hand if I try to open the mid a little and subsequently close the high needle a click or two, the mid range then 'loads up' and sputter a lot while spooling up. Often this will cause the engine to die also if I don't pump the throttle a little. This does not give me a great amount of confidence in the engine if I ever had to idle up again in the middle of practicing auto's.

I should add that my mid needle seems highly sensitive to how the engine responds during spool up.

Also, I would like to know if anyone has ever had their high needle down to 3/4 or 5/8 of a turn to enable them to get the mid needle right? To me it seems like the mid is too lean and the high a little rich but I am just a hair under one full turn on the high. Could I also get some feedback as to realistically how hot the backplate should feel after landing from full throttle on a 25-30 degree day?

I hope this is enough information for someone to read and understand.

I purchased this engine having been told that the YS would have gobs of power for the TZ V2 50, but I am yet to experience this. The OS 55 HZ seems to out-do it by a mile in my Trex 600.

Anyway, I am quite lost and frustrated as to where to go from here so suggestions and experienced thoughts would be highly appreciated.

Steve

Ever got the engine how you want it? Most of the time muffler matter too. Also this helicopter is much heavier then trex 600. 8lb vs 6lb. By the way I want to ask you can you point me the link where u got ur head from and what have u done to convert? Sorry I can't help much. I do how ever have this engine mated with outrave ys muffler. It's not the evo haven't got it up flying and I am burly getting into 3d. Hope you got it flying good.

[eluminous]

Hey rcjames,

It's getting there but not wonderful yet. I did try this engine with a different muffler though which is a knock-off Outrage YS56 style. It's performing substantially better but still difficult to tune and tweak and not "pulling" like a YS 56 really should. Just not as fiddly and sensitive now as it was before the muffler change. I also change to a higher nitro content fuel which seems to have increased it's output a little also. I can't be 100% certain but I really do think I received a dud with this engine!

It's interesting you mention about the TZ 50 being heavier than the Rex 600, because mine are almost the same. So in my case there should not be any adverse effects that warrant this engine under performing. I had assumed the same thing until I weighed them both and was a bit surprised.

By the way I want to ask you can you point me the link where u got ur head from and what have u done to convert?

I purchased the RJX head from here. It comes with the links to connect from swash to grips but I think from memory you will have to slightly adjust the overall length of the servo to swash link rods to get the desired overall length balance. It's nothing that hard.
I have found the RJX heads to be magnificent bang for the buck and very resilient.

You will also need to drill out the "Jesus Bolt" hole to accommodate the larger bolt for the TZ 50 main shaft. If your retrofitting the Trex 600 it will simply slip straight on with no issues whatsoever. Easy.

Let me know if you have any troubles and I'll do my best to help.

Cheers

Steve