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Old 11-11-2010, 02:46 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Torque Tube Issue/failure

So I was flying the 90 yesterday working on my tail down funnels and there it went.....no tail! I managed to stuff it quickly though.

I am wondering if anyone else has had an issue with the Button head screw coming out of the torque tube spline? I have noticed most of the torque tubes I have put together have poor alinement of the holes in the tube-spline, causing a cross thread condition.

I am guessing mine was cross threaded and eventually worked lose even with red lock-tight. Anyone have any suggestions? I was thinking of drilling and installing a pin.
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Old 11-11-2010, 03:45 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Ya might try using heat shrink tube over the screw after you install it with loctite.
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Old 11-11-2010, 04:07 PM   #3 (permalink)
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i just had a tail rod guide break on mine for the second time -since im removing my tail im gonna put heat shrink over the area where the screws go in the splines -
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Old 11-11-2010, 04:46 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I had my screws back out on me on flight #4 causing a crash. I hadn't put heat shrink over them but I did use red locktite. The two front screws were the ones that came out. I believe the problem was that I used silicone to aide in getting the rubber tube bearing support into the boom. As the rubber squeegeed the the wall of the boom all of the excess silicone gets washed over the front screws and seeps into the holes rendering the locktite useless. On the second attempt I used a small amount of soap applied directly on the rubber tube bearing supports along with the heat shrink (that should have been used the first time) and have had nothing but success.
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Old 11-11-2010, 04:57 PM   #5 (permalink)
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thanks for the soap idea - i will try it as for the guides i just ordered these ->
Lynx T-REX 600-700 Tail Push Rotor Guide (3 pcs)<- fellow v90 pilot says he's been using them with no problems-heres the link ->http://www.helidirect.com/advanced_s...sh+R&x=11&y=11
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Old 11-11-2010, 05:13 PM   #6 (permalink)
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if those lynx ones work well why not just use the std align plastic ones and buy 40 bucks worth of fuel?

outrage are making stronger rod supports now so won't be long.

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Old 11-11-2010, 05:37 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Thanks guys, I'll try the heat shrink. The guides have been holding up fine for me. I have bent five tubes and haven't even broke a guide yet.
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Old 11-11-2010, 06:36 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Default well

the plastic t700/600 versions are thinner than the outrage ones -besides this being the second time this has happened i rather fix it now and b done .

and i think my v90 deserves a lil bling ,shes been good these past few days

about the fuel 2cases of rage juice should be comming next week
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Old 11-12-2010, 02:12 AM   #9 (permalink)
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the thickness of the plastic is not a problem-the consistancy of the material is what matters with those-never heard of an align one going and i had a pair of 700's for 2 years that flew constantly.

it must just be me but i think those lynx things look terrible on there with EVERYTHING else black-to each their own.

back on topic-they really should put a bit in the manual about heatshrinking these or provide a cover like align do perhaps-i think i read they were doing that actually but not 100%.

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Old 11-12-2010, 03:04 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Default i know

i know the align ones on my 600e or the 600nsp or the 700e i had never failed but at this point i dont wanna fool with it any more twice is enough- yeah my wife said its gonna look funny with the orange fin -black boom -white skids-but at this point looks come second to my wanting to simply enjoy my new addition to the fleet - shoot ive had "IT" for 2 1/2 months and ive yet to fully enjoy flying "IT"

my v50 gave me less problems -on my v50 the only problem i had was getting the right throttle curves (no gov was installed i wanted to learn the art of throttle curves) still fly it with no gov,once i get the v90 to act rite the gy701 gov will be turned on, and i should be smiling from ear to ear . Then i'll worry bout looks

you know wut i mean,cause believe me i didnt want to spend $40 on tail sliders .
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Old 11-12-2010, 03:58 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Guys what about putting some JB WELD ??? is it a bad idae?? I dont think that the Heat Shrink will do something..!
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Old 11-12-2010, 04:00 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by statton1 View Post
i know the align ones on my 600e or the 600nsp or the 700e i had never failed but at this point i dont wanna fool with it any more twice is enough- yeah my wife said its gonna look funny with the orange fin -black boom -white skids-but at this point looks come second to my wanting to simply enjoy my new addition to the fleet - shoot ive had "IT" for 2 1/2 months and ive yet to fully enjoy flying "IT"

my v50 gave me less problems -on my v50 the only problem i had was getting the right throttle curves (no gov was installed i wanted to learn the art of throttle curves) still fly it with no gov,once i get the v90 to act rite the gy701 gov will be turned on, and i should be smiling from ear to ear . Then i'll worry bout looks

you know wut i mean,cause believe me i didnt want to spend $40 on tail sliders .
THe V90 is new... IF you have baught the V50 on the first biatch you would have some problems... Every Brand that have a new heli come out will have some problems..!
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Old 11-12-2010, 05:02 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
MaSt0RaS
THe V90 is new... IF you have bought the V50 on the first biatch you would have some problems... Every Brand that have a new heli come out will have some problems..!
i know the first v50 had problems mine was from 1st batch -and like i said i only had curve problems ,as for the v90 i'm not complaining -i know once "IT" is problem free it will be worth the wait ,believe me ive been waiting since june -i pre-paid for mine back in june when pre-order was announced . as for jb weld that would mean new splines after every crash instead of re-using them.

heres a video from last weekend ,my first problem free flight with 'IT'.


i flew 3 more times after this video with a smile-and hopefully 2morrow i will b flying 'IT' some more.
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Old 11-12-2010, 11:23 AM   #14 (permalink)
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the build video I posted shows me using electrical tape to tape over the button head screws, heatshrink will work just as well. We did the same with the V50 as the design is the same, it's just a pity there is nothing in the manual about it.
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Old 11-12-2010, 12:06 PM   #15 (permalink)
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the build video I posted shows me using electrical tape to tape over the button head screws, heatshrink will work just as well. We did the same with the V50 as the design is the same, it's just a pity there is nothing in the manual about it.
and if you put some JB weld... will there be a problem??!
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Old 11-12-2010, 12:46 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I find with all the Outrage kits you really need to clean all the hardware with some rubbing alcohol. The hardware all comes cover with a nice coat of machining oil which prevents the loctite from really setting. I think this causes alot of people's problems. Clean the bolts and a tiny bit of red loctite on the TT bolts to secure the TT end caps and they will never come loose, the heatsink on the end (which i do do) is only as a backup/last chance.
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Old 11-12-2010, 07:08 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HFG View Post
I find with all the Outrage kits you really need to clean all the hardware with some rubbing alcohol. The hardware all comes cover with a nice coat of machining oil which prevents the loctite from really setting. I think this causes alot of people's problems. Clean the bolts and a tiny bit of red loctite on the TT bolts to secure the TT end caps and they will never come loose, the heatsink on the end (which i do do) is only as a backup/last chance.
I agree 100% all of the hardware needs to be cleaned thoroughly. I soaked all bolts in acetone and flushed all of the receiving holes with acetone. I used red locktite and the heat shrink as a backup.
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Old 11-15-2010, 03:57 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I just did the heatshrink on the TT ends of 3 V90's, of the 12 screws, one was not really binding up when I re-did them, so this mod is a most...
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Old 11-15-2010, 06:30 PM   #19 (permalink)
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to me I would add a little JB weld between the tube and drive twist it in and have that little extra strength, then loctite in red for the bolts.

My booms and tork tubes all get JB weld.
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Old 11-24-2010, 06:11 AM   #20 (permalink)
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I guess if you don't mind replacing the splines with every TT than JB weld will do the job. Another desing go maybe look at is the Bergen TT spine clamp. It is like a main shaft lock collar. It squeezes the TT around the spline shaft 360 degrees. Never had an issue with this design. You don't have to worry about screw holes being aligned because there aren't any.
Also, I use windex to slide my TT in. Not a lubricating spray since the bearing holders can move up and down the boom. Any window cleaner will work. It dries and the bearing holders will not move.
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