Tutorial - CopterX head on Belt CP

[conex]

Benefits:
-More stability
-Tracking can be easily adusted
-No vibrations as belt cp plastic head

How to:

First we need to change Main Shaft from copterX Head and use Belt CP Main Shaft.



So with Main Shaft changed, and on place, lets take care about links.
CopterX links are about 2mm bigger than belt cp, so we cant use belt cp balls on swashplate.

The solution is to use up side with copterX ball/link and downside with Belt Cp ball/link/Shaft.



Do the same on frontal (ELEV) link, upside with copterX Ball/Link and downside with Belt CP ball/link/Shaft.

* We use Links shaft from belt cp because copterx have more length.



Another problem we got is because swashplate lock pin, is bigger than esky one, so it will not fit on AR pin, because of this is needed to remove excess from sides to copterX fit inside and slides up and down without any problem.

After this step just fix the AR pin on Front and try to keep off from "ELEV" link.



AR pin will be touching the ELEV link even when installed on edge, so remove excess on down side of AR pin to ELEV link slides up and down without be touching the AR pin.



We are getting almost there here...

Now we set the paddles, you can use belt cp ones, but its better to use copterX because its more stronger than belt cp.



Here are some images to use as reference...

















****Remember to use thread lock!****

[mnwizard]

Very Nice Conex!

HEY ADMIN - can you sticky this please? Thanks!

[conex]

Thanks mnwizard.

I hope i can help people with this

[helihathnofury]

Great job Conex!!!!!!! Will be appreciated by many I am sure..........


Mike

[alan-31]

Wow this is great, just in time! I'm doing a DTS mod and plan to fix up the linkages today. I'll let you guys know if it all works out. The plastic I made up to hold up the servos doesnt look good but it does the job.
How do we determine how low or how high to hold the head up? Trial and error I guess?

Conex, do I have your permission to copy this post of yours to www.rcheliwki.com ?

[conex]

Hi alan, yes i give you my permision, just leave some text saying its from my authorship.

I didnt understand what you say about how low or high to hold head up.

[helihathnofury]

Erm............Can we make this a sticky please?????????

Mike

Certainly deserves to be one!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Heli Yea!]

Very nice guide spot on except 1 detail. The problem I see is that you have installed the Belt CP paddles on the CopterX fly bar. The reason is that the CopX flybar is a larger diameter than the hole in the Belt's flybar weights you need to either enlarge the holes or use CopX/Trex paddles/weights. If you just tighten the grub screws on the Belts weights to the thread on the CopX flybar your paddles will slope down towards the skids and will cause heavy draw on the motor and make the heli less stable and may even cause no lift. This will also cause less response to cyclic because the further out the paddles are the slower the response. The threads inside the Belt's paddles and on the CopX flybar are the same so if you bore the Belt's flybar weights out they will work fine. BTW for those who dont know the Belt's weights and paddles screw together/apart and are 2 seperate peices. Other than that detail A+

[conex]

Heli Yea!

I dont use belt weights, just flybar paddles on mine, and my belt is flying perfect as this, take a look on my new pictures i did 3 flights and its just fine and a lot better than esky plastic head flying...

[alan-31]

conx, thanks! I'll mention your authorship there. And that looks like some type of a real heli pad eh. Nice pictures.

[Heli Yea!]

The arrow in your picture is pointing directly to the fly bar weight that needs to be bored out also I found another problem the Belt's Main shaft will not work properly with that head you must use the CopX or Align main shaft up-side down. The Belt's main shaft impeeds full range of the flybar please have a look for yourself through the slot on the head that the flybar goes through I can see your main shaft. Your flybar will hit that making you loose full range of motion. You should not see the Main shaft through that slot! I'm an expert on mechanical setup and I can tell that you tightened the grub screws on the Belts weights(the silver part of the paddle) to the threads on the CopX flybar. I'm not saying its not better than before the mod but it's just not 100% correct. You need to fix this or you could cause yourself unwanted/unexplainable failures. The best solution for now is to use the Belt's flybar and paddles until you get CopX/Align paddles. Using the belts fly bar will produce a little slop but is much better than downward/upward sloping paddles. Check them with a bubble level on each paddle lengthwise and you will not come up with with a level flybar paddle on either side because you screwed the weights to the threads. Even if your paddle pitch is at 0 widthwise. I'm just trying to help you to get it right because the most important thing on your heli is the setup!

[conex]

Originally Posted by Heli Yea!

The arrow in your picture is pointing directly to the fly bar weight that needs to be bored out also I found another problem the Belt's Main shaft will not work properly with that head you must use the CopX or Align main shaft up-side down. The Belt's main shaft impeeds full range of the flybar please have a look for yourself through the slot on the head that the flybar goes through I can see your main shaft. Your flybar will hit that making you loose full range of motion. You should not see the Main shaft through that slot! I'm an expert on mechanical setup and I can tell that you tightened the grub screws on the Belts weights(the silver part of the paddle) to the threads on the CopX flybar. I'm not saying its not better than before the mod but it's just not 100% correct. You need to fix this or you could cause yourself unwanted/unexplainable failures. The best solution for now is to use the Belt's flybar and paddles until you get CopX/Align paddles. Using the belts fly bar will produce a little slop but is much better than downward/upward sloping paddles. Check them with a bubble level on each paddle lengthwise and you will not come up with with a level flybar paddle on either side because you screwed the weights to the threads. Even if your paddle pitch is at 0 widthwise. I'm just trying to help you to get it right because the most important thing on your heli is the setup!

Mine main shaft doesnt limit flybar, but now i remember that original Main Shaft was different from the one im using right now.

Im using this Main Shaft
http://www.rc711.com/shop/product_in...products_id=90

About paddles, you are right they are a little curved but i didnt noticed any slope or failures on flight, what you mean?

[Ian 777]

Excellent stuff Conex

Just have 2 little queries

1.Why is the flat on the Esky Shaft visable above the collar in the first photo?

2. I am not sure just using sandpaper to open up the AR pin guide is a good enough
method. I would use a thin flat file to ensure you can keep the sides straight and
parrallell.

Very good job though well done

[Heli Yea!]

I mean they need to be flat in all directions no curve! The paddles need to screw onto the threads inside the paddle. Now I'm confused I can't even get the threads of the CopX flybar through the weights on the Belt paddles? What have you done? Did you bore out the holes already? Is that a copX V1 head? Are those Trex paddles? I took some pics to show you and also if there is any piece of main shaft showing through the oval shaped hole on the head piece you are limiting your fly bar travel. The signs of failure show their ugly heads when you arent looking like your ESC or motor sudenly frying for no reason if your paddles are not flat it will be the reason in the future. Are your lipos getting hot? Thats a sign that they are working too hard. Your paddles are the most sensitive thing on your heli you must have theese absolutely flat in both directions! I belive Psilo had a big issue because his flybar was slightly bent causing a slightly sloped paddle. Which inturn gave very high amounts of draw and his heli would only fly for a short time before his lipo alarm told him there was a problem! The only descovered problem was the paddle bieng slightly sloped!

[MTboy]

Really feel alot better about getting this head since this will be my first mod. Thanks for this but am sure I will have lots of questions as I do it..lol

[conex]

Originally Posted by Ian 777

Excellent stuff Conex

Just have 2 little queries

1.Why is the flat on the Esky Shaft visable above the collar in the first photo?

2. I am not sure just using sandpaper to open up the AR pin guide is a good enough
method. I would use a thin flat file to ensure you can keep the sides straight and
parrallell.

Very good job though well done

Hello lan 777.

1-I dunno, this shaft i use dont fit right if i dust put collar on the flat, so i put it down.

2-Yes i use a hand sandpaper, i dunno how to explain, my natural language inst english, its a sandpaper to nails that girls use, it need some concentration to let it straight.

[conex]

Originally Posted by Heli Yea!

I mean they need to be flat in all directions no curve! The paddles need to screw onto the threads inside the paddle. Now I'm confused I can't even get the threads of the CopX flybar through the weights on the Belt paddles? What have you done? Did you bore out the holes already? Is that a copX V1 head? Are those Trex paddles? I took some pics to show you and also if there is any piece of main shaft showing through the oval shaped hole on the head piece you are limiting your fly bar travel. The signs of failure show their ugly heads when you arent looking like your ESC or motor sudenly frying for no reason if your paddles are not flat it will be the reason in the future. Are your lipos getting hot? Thats a sign that they are working too hard. Your paddles are the most sensitive thing on your heli you must have theese absolutely flat in both directions! I belive Psilo had a big issue because his flybar was slightly bent causing a slightly sloped paddle. Which inturn gave very high amounts of draw and his heli would only fly for a short time before his lipo alarm told him there was a problem! The only descovered problem was the paddle bieng slightly sloped!

I´m using CopterX 450SE V2 head, my paddles and weights are from belt cp i just put they over the flybar, and they are working fine.

My battery is fine she just get hot when i was flying on a hot day about 38°, but like today 20° she dont get hot, just a little, and my flying time is about 6-7min what i think is normal for a 1800mah battery.

[alan-31]

Well, I cant believe but the whole thing worked. I wasnt expecting it! So I got on my belt CP now:
- CopterX head with the shaft that came with it.
- All servos are SG90, on a DTS mod (will post pics later, but really nothing to be inspired from; it doesnt look pretty but it does the job)
I have to do some final tune ups and then use Threadlock on all the screws. After all is well and tested, I'll change the stock hyro to the E-sky Headlock gyro.

But right now as it is, its able to get up in the air and do all the movements so I'm real happy. I've been looking at my broken down heli for weeks, dreading that I'll work on it and it wont work, but it did - phew!

[conex]

Really cool to hear it Alan.

Here was the same history, i get about 1 month trying to fly with my belt, and getting issues, tracking....gyro....etc

So as ultimate i decided to buy copterX head, and it was very easy to install i did it on about 30min, and now i can finally fly, my helicopter dont vibrate anymore, my tracking is perfect, my helicopter is very stable even flying about 10cm from ground it keeps flying very well.

Im very happy with it too

[MTboy]

So really I don't need anything to make the head and tail combo work right? Would like to order it all at the same time so I don't have to wait for something I don't have..