it died! sniffff....

[VW Microbus]

I gotta hand it to ya, that's one heck of a canopy! I wish I knew how to help you...good luck!

[targetingxmod]

Originally Posted by VW Microbus

I gotta hand it to ya, that's one heck of a canopy! I wish I knew how to help you...good luck!

probably that's why the board did not bind anymore... to many crashes!
Look what came in the mail today...







The tinner screw holes on the msr blades i just used the nano screws and up we go! On on blade i had to cut a round corner with a x-acto for she spins around the spindle screw. (second photo)

Hope the board comes fast... i am getting depressed! I got the fly flu and i am doped with these birds...

I need to put the bird in the air to breathe

[ArchmageAU]

Look what came in the mail today...

Why put mSR blade on a nano? Do you want to burn the already weak nano motor out early?

The mSRX has a coreless motor instead of a brushless motor which gives more torque at low speeds (less inertia). Do not know what the mSR motor is, but I would be sure it works better at lower speeds than the nano's brushless.

If you need to really soften the flight and you have a programmable TX (like DX6i, DX7, DX8, etc), set the constant pitch anywhere from 60%-75% for all points a linear throttle curve. Then at least you will hover at a fairly low head speed without killing the motor.

Also if you have a programmable TX, use DR expo to soften the middle.

Do NOT try to fly with mSR blades if you want the nano motor to survive more than 10 batteries.

[targetingxmod]

well for newbies on helis, in here (helifreak) everybody says it calms down the nano... so it's a good thing for beginers...
burn? people are saying they have now 8 to 9 minutes of flight instead of the normal 4 with the nano baldes??

i dont get the point now.... (forget 3d for now because i am newbie on helis)

what is pitch, and i change it on my new dx6i?

i see a "pitch cur" on a menu in the dx6i... but it shows me a graphic and i do not understand it!

Originally Posted by ArchmageAU

Why put mSR blade on a nano? Do you want to burn the already weak nano motor out early?

The mSRX has a coreless motor instead of a brushless motor which gives more torque at low speeds (less inertia). Do not know what the mSR motor is, but I would be sure it works better at lower speeds than the nano's brushless.

If you need to really soften the flight and you have a programmable TX (like DX6i, DX7, DX8, etc), set the constant pitch anywhere from 60%-75% for all points a linear throttle curve. Then at least you will hover at a fairly low head speed without killing the motor.

Also if you have a programmable TX, use DR expo to soften the middle.

Do NOT try to fly with mSR blades if you want the nano motor to survive more than 10 batteries.

[Daryoon]

Originally Posted by ArchmageAU

The mSRX has a coreless motor instead of a brushless motor which gives more torque at low speeds (less inertia). Do not know what the mSR motor is, but I would be sure it works better at lower speeds than the nano's brushless.

The Nano, mSR and mSRX all uses coreless motors of different sizes.

Nano = 8mm diameter
mSR = 8.5mm diameter
mSRX = 8.5mm diameter, but longer length wise

[ArchmageAU]

I posted:

... The mSRX has a coreless motor instead of a brushless motor ...

I was mistaken. The nano has a brushed and coreless motor, not brushless. I apologize.

Anatomy of a nano motor in thread https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=463230

The motor, however does not, however, appreciate such a constant load at low speed. It really seems to struggle and bog down ALOT.

You said you had a DX6i. I assume you know you can use the roller to move options, then push the roller in (like a button) to select.

You can program the normal pitch and throttle curves (DX6i manual pages 119 - 122). DX6i pitch an throttle curves have 5 points, L,2,3,4,H. Select the mode you are changing (NORM, STUNT or HOLD), then select the point (L,2,3,4 or H), then select the percentage. I am assuming you are not using stunt mode. Set the normal pitch curve to be 75,75,75,75,75 and the normal throttle curve to be 0,40,60,80,100. This will set the blades for the nano at a constant 75% pitch. As you throttle up it will lift off. If you put in a normal pitch curve of 100,100,100,100,100 (and throttle of 0,40,60,80,100), it will lift off at the slowest possible head speed and be more manageable.

The higher the head speed, the faster the nano will go in any given direction. The slower speeds make it more docile.

I have a DX6i and set "D/R COMBI" to "RUDD" (DX6i manual page 93). This means the rudder switch will change all the D/R settings between 0 and 1.

Next I set "D/R&EXPO" (DX6i manual page 110) to a comfortable level. I use 100%/25% for AILE and ELEV, but I suggest for a beginner to use 50%/50% (this will really tone it down). First number is the maximum length of the servo throw it will command. The second is how sensitive it will be round the middle. For a 50% means 25% stick movement will move 6% of max distance, 50% will move 25% of distance, 75% will move 56% of distance and 100% will move 100%. (This can be checked on the TX monitor). Do this for both 0 and 1 (select by toggling the rudder switch).

Last tip is to modify the "TRAVEL ADJ" (DX6i manual page 111). This changes the max length the radio will tell the servos to move. Reduce this to 50% for AILE and ELEV.

If you are persisting with mSR blades, you probably should set the pitch curve to a flat 50%. Adjustment of the pitch servo (one back most on the nano) by the trim wheel, can ensure the blades start off level.

Remember, the nano is a flybarless heli. This means you control the onboard computer, not the servos. DO NOT give pitch or roll commands prior to lift-off, otherwise the onboard gyros and computer get confused.

With all this, you should be able to make the nano a happy little puppy instead of an angry pit bull.

Hope this all helps.

[targetingxmod]

Well, my dx6i manual only have 100 pages!
But with this info i understand all of it!
Puted those on the dx6i and now i flew 2 packs continues with no crash and hover all the pack time!
I am doped..

Got more?????????

A big thanks to you... Even now the nano is a little bastard to control but it's doable!

Thanks and more thanks...
i am using the nano blades for now...

Without the cut down of the dx6i, a newbie just can't do nothing with the nano.
I am confused why HH sell's with the dx4e even without expo on, or says it can be activated... otherwise only for PRO's.

Originally Posted by ArchmageAU

I was mistaken. The nano has a brushed and coreless motor, not brushless. I apologize.

Anatomy of a nano motor in thread https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=463230

The motor, however does not, however, appreciate such a constant load at low speed. It really seems to struggle and bog down ALOT.

You said you had a DX6i. I assume you know you can use the roller to move options, then push the roller in (like a button) to select.

You can program the normal pitch and throttle curves (DX6i manual pages 119 - 122). DX6i pitch an throttle curves have 5 points, L,2,3,4,H. Select the mode you are changing (NORM, STUNT or HOLD), then select the point (L,2,3,4 or H), then select the percentage. I am assuming you are not using stunt mode. Set the normal pitch curve to be 75,75,75,75,75 and the normal throttle curve to be 0,40,60,80,100. This will set the blades for the nano at a constant 75% pitch. As you throttle up it will lift off. If you put in a normal pitch curve of 100,100,100,100,100 (and throttle of 0,40,60,80,100), it will lift off at the slowest possible head speed and be more manageable.

The higher the head speed, the faster the nano will go in any given direction. The slower speeds make it more docile.

I have a DX6i and set "D/R COMBI" to "RUDD" (DX6i manual page 93). This means the rudder switch will change all the D/R settings between 0 and 1.

Next I set "D/R&EXPO" (DX6i manual page 110) to a comfortable level. I use 100%/25% for AILE and ELEV, but I suggest for a beginner to use 50%/50% (this will really tone it down). First number is the maximum length of the servo throw it will command. The second is how sensitive it will be round the middle. For a 50% means 25% stick movement will move 6% of max distance, 50% will move 25% of distance, 75% will move 56% of distance and 100% will move 100%. (This can be checked on the TX monitor). Do this for both 0 and 1 (select by toggling the rudder switch).

Last tip is to modify the "TRAVEL ADJ" (DX6i manual page 111). This changes the max length the radio will tell the servos to move. Reduce this to 50% for AILE and ELEV.

If you are persisting with mSR blades, you probably should set the pitch curve to a flat 50%. Adjustment of the pitch servo (one back most on the nano) by the trim wheel, can ensure the blades start off level.

Remember, the nano is a flybarless heli. This means you control the onboard computer, not the servos. DO NOT give pitch or roll commands prior to lift-off, otherwise the onboard gyros and computer get confused.

With all this, you should be able to make the nano a happy little puppy instead of an angry pit bull.

Hope this all helps.

[targetingxmod]

Thats what come yesterday....today is fly time

[targetingxmod]

Ok, the heli now files great with the new board and the dx6i.

Got more then 20packs right now on the new board... and noticed that one of the stock baterys is going bad... i always waited for the LVC, my bad...

on the 10 fisrt packs i used the AA cells to charge the lipos...great shit!
Low power everytime....lol
So, then i used an universal transformer with 6v with the right point for the AA charger... and i got real power on the lipos again...(i tought) the difference with a AA charge and a transformer is huge for the lipo's!

but now with the new board... and more the 60 packs later from start... my 2 stock baterys are getting no power.... like suddently cut off, and less and less power for the bird....

so i wired up 2 insulated wires and choosed the + and the - soldered to an dean plug for my rc car charger.... which charge the 3.7v (1s) baterys at at 4.2v for 10minutes at 1.0A, and both , i say booth, even the bad one from the start made the bird fly like a rocket... never saw that power on my nano...

so a quality charger for lipo's that charge above the 3.7v is essencial!
My experience now with the dx6i using the timer is more then 4.30minutes time, and i was getting to the time of 3" or even less and always dropping out....

i made my stock cells a power house! lol
Well, just because they are new... otherwise garbadge!

hope this helps someone's with the stock steeler power charger AA... ahahahha

[toys2cars2toys]

Good to hear that you are having success


A few clarifications

Originally Posted by ArchmageAU

The higher the head speed, the faster the nano will go in any given direction. The slower speeds make it more docile.

For CP this is correct, controls are more responsive on a CP as the head speed increases, however head speed can't be adjusted on a FP heli and head speed = lift

Originally Posted by ArchmageAU

Next I set "D/R&EXPO" (DX6i manual page 110) to a comfortable level. I use 100%/25% for AILE and ELEV, but I suggest for a beginner to use 50%/50% (this will really tone it down). First number is the maximum length of the servo throw it will command. The second is how sensitive it will be round the middle. For a 50% means 25% stick movement will move 6% of max distance, 50% will move 25% of distance, 75% will move 56% of distance and 100% will move 100%. (This can be checked on the TX monitor). Do this for both 0 and 1 (select by toggling the rudder switch).

Last tip is to modify the "TRAVEL ADJ" (DX6i manual page 111). This changes the max length the radio will tell the servos to move. Reduce this to 50% for AILE and ELEV.

On an FBL heli, the Rate (or End points) setting on the TX do not set servo travel, these are set (or preset for the nano) in the onboard controller (AS3X)
Reducing Rate or End Points in the TX effectively reduces the commanded rate of movement. On programmable FBL controllers, it's possible to set endpoints in the FBL controller

That said, reducing the TX's Endpoint or rate settings is a great way to tame the nano, but be careful not to go too high on expo. I find that this means that you end up having to move the sticks a lot to get a response, meaning in practice that you slow down your reaction time

Originally Posted by ArchmageAU

If you are persisting with mSR blades, you probably should set the pitch curve to a flat 50%.

I asked "utrinque" about this in his thread suggesting the use of msr blades
https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=481746
He was quite clear that he does not used a fixed pitch, he uses a DX4E, so using the default settings

Originally Posted by ArchmageAU

Adjustment of the pitch servo (one back most on the nano) by the trim wheel, can ensure the blades start off level.

Not quite sure what "trim wheel" ArchmageAU refers too, on a ccpm heli there isn't really such a thing as a pitch servo as all 3 cyclic servos work together and effectively have shared functions, (sometimes the servos are given names but these are often a throwback to the default channels that they are plugged into on larger helis)
All you really need to do is make sure the swash is level and (using the original blades) check that the heli is set for 0 pitch at mid stick, you do this by adjusting linkages, there's threads about this if you need more info
On a CP heli it's important to have mid stick = 0 pitch, who know's on a CP running FP blades? but I'd suggest that you check it and then you can compare to others using msr blades



My suggestions for set up if using msr blades
Follow the advice in utrinque's thread

If I was to try it, I would probably use a certain amount of variable pitch, but not as much as with the CP blades. I'd set up my TX as per the manual and then reduce the end points on the the pitch channel from 100% down to say 50% (both ways)

As mentioned earlier I wouldn't use too much expo, maybe no more than 25%, use the dual rates to tame it

[ArchmageAU]

Originally Posted by toys2cars2toys

For CP this is correct, controls are more responsive on a CP as the head speed increases, however head speed can't be adjusted on a FP heli and head speed = lift

My Blade nanos are CP, how about yours?

targetingxmod has a nano which he wants to fly as a FP to make it easier. So I fail to see where the comment is incorrect.

Originally Posted by toys2cars2toys

On an FBL heli, the Rate (or End points) setting on the TX do not set servo travel, these are set (or preset for the nano) in the onboard controller (AS3X)
Reducing Rate or End Points in the TX effectively reduces the commanded rate of movement. On programmable FBL controllers, it's possible to set endpoints in the FBL controller

Servo travel on the TX sets the limit of the travel command sent to the heli. DR Expo sets the rate of change within the servo travel command. One thing though is that when setting travel adjust, you need to set both the + and the - amounts by moving the sticks.

Since setting travel adjust can be tricky, just working with DR should be appropriate.

Originally Posted by toys2cars2toys

I asked "utrinque" about this in his thread suggesting the use of msr blades
https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=481746
He was quite clear that he does not used a fixed pitch, he uses a DX4E, so using the default settings

If you are using FP blades on a CP heli, you should set the collective to a constant value. FP blades have a definite pitch on them. No need to tilt further.

Originally Posted by toys2cars2toys

Not quite sure what "trim wheel" ArchmageAU refers too, on a ccpm heli there isn't really such a thing as a pitch servo as all 3 cyclic servos work together and effectively have shared functions, (sometimes the servos are given names but these are often a throwback to the default channels that they are plugged into on larger helis)

The three servos in combination control swash height (and therefore collective). You can set the nano's neutral collective by adjusting all 3 servos using the trim wheels when the nano is off and the last collective command from the TX was neutral. The correct leveling of the swash at collective neutral is done it makes the nano respond correctly. I have seen a few posts on nano being unable to lift because of collective mis-configuration (especially after some hard crashes).

I suggested DR expo of 50/50, but these can/should be adjusted to suit experience.

I still think a flyer new to the nano can learn with the standard blades and a programmable TX by effective FP setting (but it seems to put a higher stress on the main motor than normal CP flight which is harder to control).

[toys2cars2toys]

Please don't be defensive, I was trying to help here by adding not meaning to be deliberately negative

Originally Posted by ArchmageAU

My Blade nanos are CP, how about yours?

Yes, I agreed and do agree, but the discussion is about using FP blades, hence my clarification

Originally Posted by ArchmageAU

targetingxmod has a nano which he wants to fly as a FP to make it easier. So I fail to see where the comment is incorrect.

I didn't say that you were incorrect. targetingxmod will have to confirm his motivation, but my impression was that he wanted to use msr blades (I guess) due to the long thread with some good feedback on how it flys with the msr blades, rather than just converting the nano to FP per se

The msr blades are heavily cambered, have a different length and much larger chord. They create lots more lift with less power consumption compared to the CP blades. Thus allowing lower head speed without straining the motor as hard as the stock heli with FP throttle and pitch curves

Point taken about the motor not running at it's optimum, again I asked utrinque about motor temps and run times, his response, temps lower, run time longer, which must equate to lower running current - a good thing with the nano motor

Originally Posted by ArchmageAU

Servo travel on the TX sets the limit of the travel command sent to the heli.

Can't agree here, (I would on a Flybarred heli) however the TX does not set the endpoint on Heli with an FBL controller
The way I think of it (but would like others views) is that on an FBL heli the TX controls the rate of rotation of the heli on the 3 axis (eg degrees per second)
Let me explain using aileron as an example, 100% aileron to the right, the AS3X interprets the command, applies the relevant servos, the heli rolls to the right (forgetting any other controls for simplicity) the AS3X monitors the roll rate and either adds more or less servo to maintain the commanded roll rate
Now in the TX, if the ail channel end points are set to 50%, and a full stick roll is applied the above happens but this time the AS3X limits the roll rate to 50% of before
If some outside influence impeded the roll, eg wind, the AS3X would keep applying more and more servo travel until the desired roll rate is achieved. In theory, even though the TX is limited to 50% the servo could be commanded to 100% travel
On a flybarred heli however, setting the TX endpoints to 50% would limit servo travel, if a full stick roll was applied in those windy conditions, the heli would simply be impeded by the wind

(side note some TX's apply mixing post end travel limits and as such can make the servos travel further than desired, hence the need for a cyclic ring)

Originally Posted by ArchmageAU

One thing though is that when setting travel adjust, you need to set both the + and the - amounts by moving the sticks.

Since setting travel adjust can be tricky, just working with DR should be appropriate.

+1, +1 (we agree x 2 )

Originally Posted by ArchmageAU

If you are using FP blades on a CP heli, you should set the collective to a constant value. FP blades have a definite pitch on them. No need to tilt further.

That was my first thought and I was surprised to hear that people were reporting good success using variable pitch on FP blades. Full CP pitch on FP blades does not sound like a good combo to me. Based on the reports, I personally would play around with a hybrid of the two. Maybe also shift the curve down a bit so that it's closer to zero pitch at mid stick

Originally Posted by ArchmageAU

The three servos in combination control swash height (and therefore collective). You can set the nano's neutral collective by adjusting all 3 servos using the trim wheels when the nano is off and the last collective command from the TX was neutral. The correct leveling of the swash at collective neutral is done it makes the nano respond correctly. I have seen a few posts on nano being unable to lift because of collective mis-configuration (especially after some hard crashes).

Can you please explain "trim wheels" I'm not quite sure what you mean

Originally Posted by ArchmageAU

I suggested DR expo of 50/50, but these can/should be adjusted to suit experience.

+1, where possible I try to run little expo, ref my comment about limiting roll rate with end points/dual rates, by setting these down tames the heli but keeps a level of responsiveness

Originally Posted by ArchmageAU

I still think a flyer new to the nano can learn with the standard blades and a programmable TX by effective FP setting (but it seems to put a higher stress on the main motor than normal CP flight which is harder to control).

I agree FP settings on a stock nano isn't a good idea, I think that msr blades with a reduced chord using a reduced pitch curve would be a good compromise
Before 3D became popular it was possible to get semi semi symmetrical blades for CP helis, giving improved efficiency at the detriment of inverted capability, the msr blades are taking this to the limit

I think that playing with the msr blades is a good idea to get a more docile indoor heli, with lower head speed giving tame response with the benefit of less damage to furniture and the heli
It's like the msrx should have been if it didn't have a firmware bug

Unfortunately this is a mod that I can't try, I've converted to brushless, the govenenor won't like the changing throttle

[ArchmageAU]

Originally Posted by toys2cars2toys

Please don't be defensive, I was trying to help here by adding not meaning to be deliberately negative

Sorry for taking it personal. No crash, no foul. We are all trying to help others here.

Originally Posted by toys2cars2toys

Point taken about the motor not running at it's optimum, again I asked utrinque about motor temps and run times, his response, temps lower, run time longer, which must equate to lower running current - a good thing with the nano motor

I have tried the settings I posted for the pitch/throttle curves a while back on my own nano. I was used to the speed of the motor and the feel of the heli in idle up. The feel of the heli, the sound of the motor seemed to indicate the motor was bogging severely, therefore, I assumed bad for the motor. I also tried mSRX blades on the nano too (with the same effect). My assumption of motor unfriendliness is based on feel, not science. (did not check motor heat or battery mAh discharge)

Originally Posted by toys2cars2toys

Can't agree here, (I would on a Flybarred heli) however the TX does not set the endpoint on Heli with an FBL controller
The way I think of it (but would like others views) is that on an FBL heli the TX controls the rate of rotation of the heli on the 3 axis (eg degrees per second)
Let me explain using aileron as an example, 100% aileron to the right, the AS3X interprets the command, applies the relevant servos, the heli rolls to the right (forgetting any other controls for simplicity) the AS3X monitors the roll rate and either adds more or less servo to maintain the commanded roll rate
Now in the TX, if the ail channel end points are set to 50%, and a full stick roll is applied the above happens but this time the AS3X limits the roll rate to 50% of before
If some outside influence impeded the roll, eg wind, the AS3X would keep applying more and more servo travel until the desired roll rate is achieved. In theory, even though the TX is limited to 50% the servo could be commanded to 100% travel
On a flybarred heli however, setting the TX endpoints to 50% would limit servo travel, if a full stick roll was applied in those windy conditions, the heli would simply be impeded by the wind

Agree with all of that. The "intent" of the TA was to give a second layer of control limitation, not try limit the throw of the cyclic servos. For a FBL heli: TA 50, DRexpo 50/50 = TA 100, DRexpo 25/50. As TA requires stick manipulation to set properly, for the FBL heli's stick with adjusting DRexpo and leave TA at 100.

Originally Posted by toys2cars2toys

That was my first thought and I was surprised to hear that people were reporting good success using variable pitch on FP blades. Full CP pitch on FP blades does not sound like a good combo to me. Based on the reports, I personally would play around with a hybrid of the two. Maybe also shift the curve down a bit so that it's closer to zero pitch at mid stick

I too was surprised, but cannot totally agree.

Just because I can drive my car successfully with unbalanced wheels does not mean I should. Just because other starting pilots have had success with CP adjustments on FP blades does not mean it is correct. The heli's they were designed for do not have CP, so the blades will work "sub-optimally" at CP angles. "sub-optimal" blade angles cause excess drag with no benefit to lift. For FP blades and FP flying I would try to ensure the blades remain at an optimal fixed pitch.

Originally Posted by toys2cars2toys

Can you please explain "trim wheels" I'm not quite sure what you mean

The nano servos are motors with a linear track that holds a bracket that can move along the track by being wound up and down a screw. The main gear for the linear track screw that joins the to the servo motor pinion is the "trim wheel" I am referring to.

When the nano is turned off, the last pitch the blades were instructed to be at is where they will rest. At 0 pitch (mid point), the tail most linear track bracket should be halfway along it's track (this can be adjusted by turning the track's main gear that winds the screw). The two side linear track bracket should then be adjusted to level the swash plate (this is less important as the FBL controller will adjust these to fix pitch and roll once the heli is airborne).

Originally Posted by toys2cars2toys

I agree FP settings on a stock nano aren't good idea, I think that msr blades with a reduced chord using a reduced pitch curve would be a good compromise
Before 3D became popular it was possible to get semi semi symmetrical blades for CP helis, giving improved efficiency at the detriment of inverted capability, the msr blades are taking this to the limit

Agreed, and beyond the limit. The settings I gave make the stock blades (HP or bullet) work as an inefficient FP blade (without having to buy mSR blades).

Originally Posted by toys2cars2toys

Unfortunately this is a mod that I can't try, I've converted to brushless, the govenenor won't like the changing throttle

I find that I use 5% less mAh, on average, on stock brushed motors when I fly 4min on 100% throttle than I did flying 4min on 90% throttle. Weird, I would have expected the opposite.

[toys2cars2toys]

Cool, cheers for the good replies

It's certainly hard judging peoples results from forums, the volume of good comments about this mod definitely elevates it into the "worth a play category"

One of my sons is reaching the point were I'd like him to transition to CP, I may have to get a second nano and try this mod as a stepping stone. On the other hand maybe it would be my justification for getting the new BL mcpx and try some FP blades on that!

I wasn't too happy with the msrx. I found it fine, but was hoping it would be good for my son to learn on, but it does funky things when rudder is applied and is also hard on it's motors. This idea of nano with msr blades seems to be a better option than an msrx

Regarding the trim adjustment, maybe someone else can chime in to confirm this, I thought that the servo gear wheels will just reset themselves on next power up, I always adjust the length of the linkage rod where it connects to the swash


Cheers and happy flying

[ArchmageAU]

Originally Posted by toys2cars2toys

Cool, cheers for the good replies
Regarding the trim adjustment, maybe someone else can chime in to confirm this, I thought that the servo gear wheels will just reset themselves on next power up, I always adjust the length of the linkage rod where it connects to the swash

toys2cars2toys, you are correct. Only way to adjust the collective is to modify the length of the linkage rod. I conceed to your judgement on this one.

When I read toys2cars2toys paragraph, it raised questions in my understanding of how this function on the heli worked. So I devised a way to test.

To check, I set my TX to a flat 50% pitch curve for normal and TH, bound the nano. I then disconnected the battery, moved the servo (almost to an one extreem), then reconnected battery (the servo re-centered). Did the same again, but moved to the other extreem. Same again.

With a servo, the feedback potentiometer senses the position of the link point in the shaft and re-centers on startup. (this WAS the gap in my knowledge on rc servo construction).

[targetingxmod]

Made a video today:

Blade Nano Cpx flying (1 min 24 sec)

No 3D flight, because i don't have skills for that, and never will... just being on the air is fun!

[targetingxmod]

Round 2 video:

[targetingxmod]

-45C rocks!











-Brushless motor will last more i hope!

And balancing the blades made it absolutly lovely... impressed of what a single piece of transparent tape can do in the right spot on blades!

Balancing Blades on Micro RC Helicopters (9 min 4 sec)

Still can't do 3D or aerobatics, but loving the heli on air ROCK SOLID.
The servos when get a life of their own, i just compresed air onto them and they quiet, no more dancing. No need to take them out... at least for it works....