!!WARNING!! Blade Holder = ESC Pop and Smoke!

[Laurens]

In the air you're pulling a lot of amps peak too. But its not binding there. In the end you don't want the ESC to cut off just because one short peak.

[mk1spitfire]

Or design a saftey release on the blade holder that will open when pressure is applied

[Finless]

Dude... throttle HOLD has NOTHING to do with your pitch especially if you left your hold pitch curve linear. If you set your heli up right, center throttle stick (even in hold) should be 0 pitch! Move the throttle stick to center and the blades will be parallel. Now they wont bind in the holder.
Also if you bound your radio at center stick then powering up with the TX off will automatically put the blades at 0.

NOW that still means you should NOT power up with the holder on as you may forget to put the stick center and thus they will bind. The safe thing is to ALWAYS remove the blades from the holder and straighten them out before powering up for any reason.

Bob

[bflores]

Originally Posted by Finless

Dude... throttle HOLD has NOTHING to do with your pitch especially if you left your hold pitch curve linear. If you set your heli up right, center throttle stick (even in hold) should be 0 pitch! Move the throttle stick to center and the blades will be parallel. Now they wont bind in the holder.
Also if you bound your radio at center stick then powering up with the TX off will automatically put the blades at 0.

NOW that still means you should NOT power up with the holder on as you may forget to put the stick center and thus they will bind. The safe thing is to ALWAYS remove the blades from the holder and straighten them out before powering up for any reason.

Bob

Yes, the radio is bound at lower stick. I powered the Heli on, while the radio was at lower stick, flight mode normal (or not idleup 1 or 2).

Thanks for the input Bob, as well as everyone else. Hopefully others will not have to learn the hard expensive way, like I did. I know this mistake should have been prevented by common sense. It was just one of those things I just didn't think about before powering up. I can only hope this thread will prevent someone else in the future from making the same mistake.

In the mean time, I will be waiting for Manufacturers to create "Electronic Fail-safe's" that protect from these types of overloading. I assume the same damage would be possible if someone wrecked and the blades and servos were bound; electronics would possibly fry before they could get to the heli and unplug the battery? Perhaps there is a common sense answer to this as well, but it just seems like electronic overloading failsafes should be possible without influencing flight. It's a conspiracy to sell more electronics isn't it? (J.K.)

[Shakes268]

I don't think it will ever happen. At what point does the "overloading" failsafe kick in?
When the servos are drawing 2 amps each? What if the servos are JR 8711s? (say on a large giant scale airplane). Do the servos stop drawing more current to save the electronics before them in the chain?

What if the servos are fine at 2 amps draw...but the regulator cannot sustain the load? What about the connectors? The small JR connectors cannot maintain a sustained, high current draw very long.

Ok, so the BEC - does it shut down in mid flight if it detects high current draw from a component? What determines high current draw?

There are way too many variables in this and you'd end up with manufacturers finger pointing anytime you had a shut down.

Easy common sense answer? Don't bind your servos. AKA: Don't power up with the holder on, don't power up with a book sitting on the blades.

Easiest common sense answer? Pop the links off the head when you put the blade holder on. YOu'll never power up and stress the servos or linkages again.

[psindrup]

Originally Posted by Finless

Dude... throttle HOLD has NOTHING to do with your pitch ... Bob

That is not entirely true.

As per your video, I have a -2 -1 0 + 5 +10 pitch curve in normal, and a linear -10+ - +10 pitch curve in throttle hold, so when I flip from normal to TH with the stick at it lowest position, the pitch do indeed change.

Respectfully

Peter

[Finless]

Read my post and understand my vid. At center stick you should ALWAYS be 0 pitch no matter your normal or hold pitch curves... My above post says if you are at center stick hitting hold should give no change. If it does you don't have your curves right.

My post above is trying to say if he was at center stick switching to hold should not do anything. Of course at low stick it's going to change but the point he made in his vid is about hold cauisng binding... Well even in normal at low stick it's going to cause binding too as the blades wont be at 0 pitch!

Bob

[psindrup]

I was not talking about center stick, but in general terms.

Peter

PS: I do understand your vids - more than most - if you were referring to me.