Technical tips

[Mercuriell]

Kasama recommends just a fraction of backlash (say 0.3mm) If you feel a grittiness it's likely that it's binding and this will get worse as it heats up during use.

[HeliBenj]

Thanks, I couldn't find anything in the manual about tail metal gears mesh (only info on mine is about pinion / main gear and crown gear / bevel gear mesh).
Indeed the gears seemed quieter with just a tad of backlash.

[Stallion]

@HeliBenj: I feel for you man. Dumped mine 4 weeks ago hard and belive me i know about part kosts.

I would like to contribute something to personal stupidity: Had once a crash with my 700N due to dump thumbing. Rebuilt it in two days and replaced on servo gear and converted it to V-Bar did a test hover and everything themed fine. Then gained altitude to do the first Flip and bang it got out of control. It felt like it overreacted and i was glad i didn't hurt my self or any bystanders. After i finally dumped it with brand new blades an all the other parts i just installed a day ago. Turned out that the teeth on the plastic servo horns from the two other servos i didn't replace where stripped and gave way during the flip but where good during normal flight.

By the way i was able to get 16° pitch out of my normal Kasama Cyber head with a BeastX without Modification of any ball links. but i reduced it to 13°

Good luck with the rebuild!

[HeliBenj]

Thanks for the good words, I hope your bird is rebuilt and flying again.

I finally had my 90 running great and smooth. Apart from correcting some bad setup from the previous owner and trying not to be stupid, I switched to OS 91 HZ, no more fuel foaming nor tail problem. For some reason the YS wasn't running smooth.

Heli is running fine,I'm loving it I'll stop hijacking this thread now:o

[HeliBenj]

Originally Posted by Mercuriell

Easy to do but I have had a few questions - note I have my "mixer arm" ball on the outside contrary to instructions which show them on the inside.

First off get your servo output arms nice and square at mid stick - then adjust your servo torque arms to swash links so that the swash is level at mid travel - I find a swash leveler here very useful and use a Compass one which is about 18mm thick - the link lengths come out about 41mm end to end (or 34mm mid ball to mid ball)



Next up get your grip at zero pitch - I use a 5mm tail shaft through the grip bolt hole lined up with the mast and a rubber band wrapped around the grip to keep it in position.



Next up you have to adjust the rotor head to arm link length (mine came out to 55mm end-end) so that at blade zero pitch the short limb of the arm is exactly in line with the grips - you can use the grip arm bolts to help with this - this makes sure that the long arm to swash link is square - this is a vital setup to reduce delta and funny mixing effects.



Last up adjust the length of your swash to long arm link so that the arm remains as adjusted above and the swash is mid position. This shoud result in the link being sqaure with the offset longer mixer arm. I'm not giving a length here as I have the rotor head dropped down a bit and custom links .



There - easy !

John, can you tell me where you got those custom rods you used to drop your head?
I've been looking for suitable 3mm rods without luck...

[Mercuriell]

They're Minicopter Joker3 links !

[HeliBenj]

Of course, I should have thought about that, Thanks!

[HeliBenj]

Euh, I'm a bit confused, lots of parts on their site, do you happen to know the P/N for the links (I don't have the manual). Sorry about the trouble...

[Mercuriell]

Originally Posted by HeliBenj

Euh, I'm a bit confused, lots of parts on their site, do you happen to know the P/N for the links (I don't have the manual). Sorry about the trouble...

I used their links #199 which have nice fine thread and turnbuckles

[HeliBenj]

Thanks for the info, ordered!

[kotatko]

Hi guys,
how much cyclic/colectiv pitch are you using on FB Faifa ?

[vikas]

im using 14 collective and 11 cyclic on mine with sk720. but havent flown yet

[Sage]

Hi

Swash square and leveled at mid travell. Mixing arm rods square with mixing arm.
Colective 11.5, cyclic 7. V-bar 5.0.

From geometrical point of view mechanical setup seems to be ok.

However here is what I ended up with:

Stabilizer's control rod plastic ball link binds as pictured above when full negative and just little bit of cyclic input .

Hv tryed different Srimok's linkage balls than mentioned in manual KSM 53-106 (M3x4.95x6.5) for this purpose.

Hv tryed to mount mixing arms with and without spacer KSM60-058 (3x5x2.5) on the arm grip. As per manual it's not required with cyber head.

I'm still binding.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

[Laurens]

I have different balls on my cyberhead. Are the KSM53-106 the balls without the extra collar on them?

[Sage]

Originally Posted by Laurens

I have different balls on my cyberhead. Are the KSM53-106 the balls without the extra collar on them?

KSM53-106 are with extra colar.

I purchased Faifa FB and then upgraded it to FBL (going to keep remaining FB head parts for my FB nitro) .

Since those balls and mixing arms were not included in the cyber head upgrade set I used as per manual KSM53-106 which came with FB version. Definetly they are not the way to go.

[Breezyjr]

Do you have your mechanical setup as described below....????

Just a thought....

Joe_Breezy

Originally Posted by Mercuriell

Easy to do but I have had a few questions - note I have my "mixer arm" ball on the outside contrary to instructions which show them on the inside.

First off get your servo output arms nice and square at mid stick - then adjust your servo torque arms to swash links so that the swash is level at mid travel - I find a swash leveler here very useful and use a Compass one which is about 18mm thick - the link lengths come out about 41mm end to end (or 34mm mid ball to mid ball)



Next up get your grip at zero pitch - I use a 5mm tail shaft through the grip bolt hole lined up with the mast and a rubber band wrapped around the grip to keep it in position.



Next up you have to adjust the rotor head to arm link length (mine came out to 55mm end-end) so that at blade zero pitch the short limb of the arm is exactly in line with the grips - you can use the grip arm bolts to help with this - this makes sure that the long arm to swash link is square - this is a vital setup to reduce delta and funny mixing effects.



Last up adjust the length of your swash to long arm link so that the arm remains as adjusted above and the swash is mid position. This shoud result in the link being sqaure with the offset longer mixer arm. I'm not giving a length here as I have the rotor head dropped down a bit and custom links .



There - easy !

[Sage]

Originally Posted by Breezyjr

Do you have your mechanical setup as described below....????

Just a thought....

Joe_Breezy

Yes, I do have.

What I can see on the last 2 pictures is a different linkage ball (allows for slightly bigger angle ?) between the mix arm and stabilizer control rod.

What's the part number of that linkage ball ?


EDIT: Looks like people use MA linkage balls: PN# MA 0107

[HeliBenj]

I had the same problem. What I did was lengthen the short rod so the mixing arm is more 90 to the short rod at 0 pitch. This way I get 12.5 / 9

I know it's not good though but I have to say I have not felt anything in flight. I'd like to have it right though, so maybe I'll try to get other balls

[billiano]

By this way(More 90 degr at short arm) you have what we say 0 degrees at Delta Angle.
And is a little more responsive but you will not be surprised.
Go ahead and tell us your opinion..after test flight

[Sage]

Thanks.

Looks like this is the only way to hv it not binding .

Gonna maiden my Faifa soon. Will let you know how it goes.


EDIT: Hv just purchased following :

http://www.helidirect.com/threaded-s...on-p-21385.hdx

http://www.helidirect.com/plastic-ba...on-p-21381.hdx